@ysleem is running a prototype MKTurbo EFR manifold - works with the existing DP unless I'm mistaken...

 

I think Lars would have to verify that. I am running a earlier gen EFR SS DP - 3". Tight fitment and if you don't adjust it just right you will be hitting the transmission or the transmission tunnel.

 

It is running a custom DP. The EFR has a 3" outlet while the t3 turbo's have a 2.5" outlet. The DP is a full 3" all the way down. ysleem's is a bit off mostly because I originally built it with what random parts I had on hand, not because it was the best way to do it. Future ones going forward should clear better.

I will hopefully be meeting with the pattern maker, foundry, and machine shop next week to talk more about my manifold and see if I can get pricing quotes locked in. Once I write the check to get the pattern made it is 8-12 weeks before I have the first 2 cast manifolds in hand to start trying out.

 

Decision decisions, switching to EFR all said and done gonna run about 2k. Running a Garrett GT about 1200. Is there $800 worth of happiness in the EFR?

 

It is amazing compared to ebay. Lars the dp i have is two piece 3" all the way down and those welds...epic!

 

Came across this on the Google machine it's from 2011. He made 150 ftlb 500 rpm faster than my current turbo. This was with the cast begi s5 Mani/dp and 3071 .82 a/r

 

I totally do support you going this route for science instead of the EFR.

 

mine looks the same, pic attached, felt in there and it's just a thin bit of metal, not an important part of the housing around the fan, so i'm just going to hit it with the grinder

 

I really need to dial mine in this week. Ill try and tune ebc this weekend and post some logs #forscience

 

I'm wondering if I'd see slightly better spool if I went with the .63 a/r

 

I say go for the GTX if you want spool. Also, science.

 

That puts me at 1900 bucks, at that point the EFR makes more sense.

 

I just bought one of these guys for fun. Hopefully I can slam it on this weekend and let the broke asses like me know how/if it works.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/REV9-TX-50E-57-BILLET-COMPRESSOR-WHEEL-TURBO-CHARGER-63AR-T3-5-BOLT-EXHAUST/273111004424?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2060353.m1438.l2649

FYI- seller will accept $220 offers.

 

Are these your options under consideration?

eBay T3 (on the shelf)

The base GT28R .63AR option (journal bearing) is $850
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...ory_Code=GTNBB

The upgrade to that, GT20RS BB is $999
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...ode=gt-2860-T3

EFR and new manifold $1900

And you priority in the new turbo was name brand reliability and 300hp?

If that's the case, then I'd go with the "base" GT28R with the .63AR turbine housing. It will deliver the power, is "name brand", likely spool near if not as well as your T3 and cost the least.

Based on the chart you posted it would do it in rpm range that would work well on the track too.

And no- I don't know of a T3'd EFR. :troll:

 

efr 7064 comes in t3.

 

Internally gated T3 EFR 7064, not a bad price either. Too bad the DP won't work OOTB.

@levnubhin I think we found your turbo

 

downpipes are easy. mod it.

 

Would build from scratch. Not work trying to make the 2.5" downpipe he has bolt up to the EFR.

 

fwiw, 7064 is a b2 frame efr. its quite a bit bigger physically.

 

It's settled, i ordered me a disco potato. Now, what's are the chances my oil and drain lines bolt right up?