Hey guys back again after a retune yesterday. I ended up needing a new fuel pump because my flowforce injectors were almost maxed at the top end from a more than likely old dying fuel pump. Threw in a walbro 255 lph and a new fuel filter and dropped the duty cycle almost 25% at the top end. Also made more power with 244whp/and 217wtq and 251whp/220wtq with my exhaust valve open. So far I'm loving this turbo. Only issue I'm having with this turbo now is that 1 of the 4 bolts that holds the compressor side backing plate to the CHRA stripped out and the other 3 were loose causing oil leak between the chra and the compressor side. Looks like i might be able to use a longer bolt and grab more threads at the bottom. If this doesn't work out then Then im going to start looking into what non china-charger i'll be upgrading to next year.

Is it too short to run outside the coolant hose?

I tried going around the lower radiator hose (looping on the driver side then back to the block). I tried looping around the lower power steering but thats a lower position and the hose isnt long enough. The hose really needs a direct route because it isnt flexible enough in such a tight space.

The sender has a cast 17mm head at the threads- you just need to get an open end wrench in there. The housing is less than dependable for removal because it's only crimped to the base. There's a risk of it rounding or spinning.
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M2cupcar--thats good to know (worth a cat). Youre right, my socket kept slipping. Lars recommended removing the intake to get to it. I am lazy so I decided to just use driver side oil feed (m10x1.5 to -4 an) for $9. Then I looped the long oil feed.

For black Friday I am doing $100 off DIY setups, $150 of intercooler setups, and $250 off complete setups. Most parts are in hand. Currently looking at turn around times of about 2 weeks depending on what you order. Parts are on sale until December 5th.

I've recently developed a problem where my boost is hitting 10psi at like 20% throttle, ebc is set to around 15psi and i never get into boost that early in rpm. This is more noticable under load such as light throttle increase in 4th or 5th gear and the boost needle jumps into positive.

WOT pulls are unchanged, hitting my boost target and no noticable loss of power. No creep or leak just from eyeballing the gauge.

I checked all connectors and vacuum caps/lines everything seems normal. Does this sound like my WGA is taking a shit?

I seem to remember someone replacing their WGA much earlier in this thread. Is a turbosmart WGA a worthwhile investment? If not is there a source for a cheap WGA for this turbo?

Thanks

Not sure I understand exactly, but you can set your EBC not to activate at any throttle position you want with megasquirt.
I am not too far from you and would be happy to help. I have found the wastegate cans to be pretty reliable. I changed mine so I would be able to open it up more than one time.

Sorry I moved and hadn't updated my location here yet. I'm now in Phoenix.

My EBC setttings in MS have been relatively consistent and unchanged, the only time i tweak it is when the temps drop below 40 and I start hitting overboost protection but then i am only changing the top 2 rows.

The consistency in the EBC settings is why I suspect something mechanical but I'll take a look at the map and see anyways.

Your arm could be binding. I had this problem when my turbo wasn't quite clocked correctly. See if you can pressurize the can with the car not running to ensure it has smooth, full range of motion.

Drove all summer trouble free. just waiting for next summer to continue with a solid setup. Thanks Lars!

Glad you are still loving it. Was great meeting you at MaTG. This year you got to decide if you are doing MaTG or Miata Reunion, or come to both.

Doing MATG*

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Have any of you had problems with the feed leaking? Anyone having better luck then the supplied gaskets?

I'm having the same issue. I emailed Lars asking what he recommended, and his advice was to use the gaskets that came with the turbo along with thin coat of copper gasket sealant. I'm pulling my turbo this afternoon after I get off work and I'll be doing what he recommended when it goes back together a little later this week. I'm also going to use Permatex high temp thread sealant on the bolts that hold the flanges to the turbo. I'm not sure if it's needed, but it can't hurt. I'll let you know if it fixes my leak once I've had a chance to test it out. I'm really hoping that it does; autocross is in two weeks and I need this leak solved before I can sign up.

If you look at the turbo housing under that flange, it'll have a thread (sorry, I forget what size) that you can buy an adapter to the -4AN (or -3AN if that's the size you have) 90 deg pipe. That eliminates the flange and its leak problems.

I'd noticed that prior to putting it all together the first time, and Lars actually mentioned it, as well. I'm going to give the second set of gaskets a try with the copper sealant, and I'm also going to get some washers to go under the allen bolts to help them clamp more evenly. If that doesn't work, I'll figure out which thread my turbo has for the oil feed and get a restrictor fitting that'll work.

I will take a turbo up to the local hydraulic shop sometime soon and see if they can give me the exact fitting and specs for it. If you go that route, you will need to add an oil restrictor.

Are you willing/able to sell just the intercooler kit? I tried PM/email but have had inconsistent luck with replies.

Just buy the right thread size/AN fitting size from Vibrant and be done with it. I bought mine on Amazon and used the 1/16 restrictor size. Example; Vibrant Performance oil restrictor. Or... just drill out a normal fitting to .060"