Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1510888)
I would expect clearance issues going to an EFR on lar's manifold. The downpipe definitely won't work without modification.
Kraken or trackspeed for manifold+downpipe would probably be the better way to go. |
I think Lars would have to verify that. I am running a earlier gen EFR SS DP - 3". Tight fitment and if you don't adjust it just right you will be hitting the transmission or the transmission tunnel.
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Originally Posted by cpierr03
(Post 1510893)
@ysleem is running a prototype MKTurbo EFR manifold - works with the existing DP unless I'm mistaken...
I will hopefully be meeting with the pattern maker, foundry, and machine shop next week to talk more about my manifold and see if I can get pricing quotes locked in. Once I write the check to get the pattern made it is 8-12 weeks before I have the first 2 cast manifolds in hand to start trying out. |
Decision decisions, switching to EFR all said and done gonna run about 2k. Running a Garrett GT about 1200. Is there $800 worth of happiness in the EFR?
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It is amazing compared to ebay. Lars the dp i have is two piece 3" all the way down and those welds...epic!
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https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f411e5a265.jpg
Came across this on the Google machine it's from 2011. He made 150 ftlb 500 rpm faster than my current turbo. This was with the cast begi s5 Mani/dp and 3071 .82 a/r |
I totally do support you going this route for science instead of the EFR.
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Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1510850)
Does this look like a problem to anyone else?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...689090cd44.jpg |
I really need to dial mine in this week. Ill try and tune ebc this weekend and post some logs #forscience
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1510982)
I totally do support you going this route for science instead of the EFR.
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Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 1511031)
I'm wondering if I'd see slightly better spool if I went with the .63 a/r
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That puts me at 1900 bucks, at that point the EFR makes more sense.
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I just bought one of these guys for fun. Hopefully I can slam it on this weekend and let the broke asses like me know how/if it works.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/REV9-TX-50E-57-BILLET-COMPRESSOR-WHEEL-TURBO-CHARGER-63AR-T3-5-BOLT-EXHAUST/273111004424?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2060353.m1438.l2649 FYI- seller will accept $220 offers. |
Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 1511034)
That puts me at 1900 bucks, at that point the EFR makes more sense.
eBay T3 (on the shelf) The base GT28R .63AR option (journal bearing) is $850 https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...ory_Code=GTNBB The upgrade to that, GT20RS BB is $999 https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...ode=gt-2860-T3 EFR and new manifold $1900 And you priority in the new turbo was name brand reliability and 300hp? If that's the case, then I'd go with the "base" GT28R with the .63AR turbine housing. It will deliver the power, is "name brand", likely spool near if not as well as your T3 and cost the least. Based on the chart you posted it would do it in rpm range that would work well on the track too. And no- I don't know of a T3'd EFR. :troll: |
efr 7064 comes in t3.
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Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1511124)
efr 7064 comes in t3.
@levnubhin I think we found your turbo :rofl: |
downpipes are easy. mod it.
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Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1511154)
downpipes are easy. mod it.
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fwiw, 7064 is a b2 frame efr. its quite a bit bigger physically.
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It's settled, i ordered me a disco potato. Now, what's are the chances my oil and drain lines bolt right up?
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