Or your water/coolant lines? ;)

I had to order those as well

The oil feed and drain flanges may be different then the t3 adapters I include. The oil feed line should work fine. The drain line should be pretty close.

probably should have a restrictor fitting on the feed line on a GT series turbo.

I ordered the restrictor fitting to mate up with my existing oil feed line and I ordered banjo fittings for the water line. I think the oil drain flange will work.

the bolt spacing is tighter on a t3 vs a t2 oil drain. T3 I've made work before, but its not technically the right thing.

Black Friday sale is now live. Details in the first post of the thread. The TLDR is

$25 off each setup a different customer orders up to $100 off the total price. So once we hit 4 people then everyone gets the discount. Sale runs until midnight November 26th. Deposits must be placed by then to get discount prices.

Come January 1 2019 prices will be going up across the board. Thank Trump and his tariffs for this. Everything I purchase material wise has gone up in price over the last 4 years. I have held prices firm, but I finally have to increase my pricing to keep up with my costs.

Buckley Racing out of Alaska is the first one to get in on the BF group buy. $25 off the total so far.

I'm finally trying to drive my car again and am fixing some things up and getting it retuned and a few dyno pulls soon. But I'm keeping my eye on future changes as I'm still one of the OGs

Lars,

1) I gather that your manifolds are holding together without the need for cuts in the exhaust manifold flange. Correct?
2) What kind of performance difference (pressure drop and temp rise) have you seen between Vibrant 12800 vs Ebay 2.5 x 5.5 x 27 FMIC?

1. Have not had any issues related to flange cuts. I have had a few cracked manifolds, but customers all received replacements.

2. No idea. I have not taken those sorts of measurements. My testing was more for fitment around AC components. Not worth testing those data points if I can't make the IC fit in a way that I am happy with. I do know there are large differences in how the different IC's are built and that probably will change how well they work. It is just a point that even the cheapest crappiest ones do well enough at the power levels I target that it is not worth the cost for the average consumer to go better.

I noticed that my manifold flange warped after a drift event. At the time I was running the manifold wrapped, downpipe wrapped, and a turbo blanket so maybe it was getting too hot at that point (I've since ditched the turdbo blanket).


I cut the flange at between runners 1&2, and 3&4 and flattened it back out on the belt sander at work. No problems since with warps or cracks.

Mine has been installed for about a year now, and survived the 20+ autocross events I did this year. No cuts between the runners, and no heat shielding on the turbo/exhaust, just everything surrounding it.

Do you have any photos of the changes you made that you can post by chance? Thx!

Pretty self explanatory, no? He cut the flange between the runners...excluding 2 & 3.

I was curious to see the size/length of the relief cuts he made more than anything.

You don't have many options if "cutting the flange between the runners". Cut is typically done with a band saw.
for reference:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7e528d0ccf.jpg

Yep, that's basically what it looks like, with the exception that the center runners are still intact.

Ah ok, I was thinking it was just reliefs being added to the flange. Got it. Thanks.

Possible downpipe issues and snapped V-Band clamp
 

Has anyone had issues with downpipe fitment? I'm working with an NA 1994 Miata, MKTurbo kit purchased and delivered around August/Sept/October 2017.

Background: I'm putting the final touches on my install and part of that was recalibrating the O2 sensor and actually threading it into the provided bung in the downpipe. When I went to put it in, I couldn't fit the sensor into the bung in the downpipe without removing that V-band clamp next to O2 sensor bung to give myself enough clearance. Even then, with the sensor tightened in the bung, the top end with the wires was smashed into the transmission tunnel wall. Is that normal? I'll include a crude cross section drawing to illustrate. It may have something to do with the broken V-band clamp detailed below.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9ac40210e1.png
After installing the O2 sensor, I had to loosen all of the exhaust v-band clamps (muffler and turbo side) to create enough 'give' in the system to reattach the exhaust clamp next to the O2 sensor, and once that one was back on, I reattached the clamp at the muffler. I was on to my last clamp. At the time I thought this was the last bolt I needed to tighten before starting up my newly turbo'd car for the first time. And then the v-band clamp next to the turbo snapped in spectacular fashion while I was tightening it down, shearing the threaded rod with the nut still attached. I've attached a pic of the carnage (sorry if it's massive, I tried to resize it). When it snapped, the downpipe jolted downwards, leading me to think that I may have stressed the connection between the turbo and downpipe.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5d7741516a.jpg


Has anyone else had similar issues with the downpipe not quite fitting right?? When I had everything hooked up but not tightened, there are two areas where fit seems to be an issue. The downpipe was forced up against the transmission (couldn't rotate any more) and the O2 sensor was smushed into the transmission tunnel wall. Even if I throw another v-band clamp on at the turbo, I'll still have these tight spots. Am I missing something obvious here? I appreciate any help/advice you guys my have.

Thanks,
Dylan