Yeah exactly that one, my elbow was a fair bit bigger then the turbo inlet I didn't think it would compress down far enough to fit on there so I put the air filter directly onto it Attachment 220476Attachment 220477 sorry I don't have a picture this second of the comparison of how much bigger it is on mine

Yes, there are 2 sizes of turbo inlet's that Lars is sending out that I know of (I know of the two different housings from the new turbo I got to replace the one that had bad seals). For one you need the coupler, for the other you don't. You are good to go without the coupler with the turbo you have. Just save the coupler in case you have to replace the turbo and you get one with a different size inlet.

Update: Got the new turbo. Installed it. No more issues. Runs great. I have a rebuild kit coming and will rebuild the old turbo one day. But for now, need to get the car tuned some more.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d1b0df43a4.jpg
That air filter piece definitely doesn't fit on my NA with PS

Um... Turn it maybe?

It wouldn't fit with the cruise control actuator. I haven't tried it without the actuator yet, but I feel like it still wouldn't fit

Just move the actuator.

Miata Cruise Control Relocation Kit for Miata

and trim the 90° if need be.

I moved my cruise actuator up by the masters and it worked fine.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...451de3f247.jpg

Thanks everyone, was looking for clarification from Lars/other people with his kit that relocation was necessary on NA.

NA's have terrible real estate availability underhood, everything is fighting with everything else to occupy the same places. Gotta get creative

Name brand upgrade options, what out there compared to the gt2560? Mine took a shit after 130 miles. New one already on the way but would like to plan for the long term.

some weird t3 garrett probably

I wasted 2 turbos, but they were both my fault. I had major boost leaks both times and spun them to infinity. Be sure to rule out anything like that, before upgrading to a high dollar version. It would suck to have the same thing happen.

Thank you for the tip.

I rebuilt the old turbo with a similar kit from a USA seller so I got it rather quick. I reinstalled the old turbo and its running great; no more leaks. The seal on the exhaust side was probably bad & everything else looked fine but I ended up replacing the two journal bearings as well.

For anyone else who may be concerned about doing this, I'd say its fairly straight forward and so try it out before you chuck the turbo. There is one important thing to make sure that the shaft is balanced when you put the nut back on (mark the nut with the turbine wheel on the compressor side and make sure when you tighten it down the marks line up - mine already had a mark and I put an additional one just in case - I noticed after I decided to open it up again and replace the bearings anyway that my marks with a sharpie had faded - so maybe scour a mark with an exacto knife). I don't know how long it will last the way I did it as some people on forums have suggested that you have to rebalance it and this procedure won't last, but it is worth a try than throwing the whole thing out. I guess time will tell.

Nuts and Heat
 

First of all the good news. The car was a blast to drive at autox. Did quite well.

At the end of the autox session, I found a few issues which I need help with.

Nuts) I had the exhaust tightened quite a bit towards the transmission and it was running very good without any more [significant] vibrations or noise. After the session, the exhaust nuts had vibrated a bit loose (both at the turbo end and the downpipe - maybe even the one at the back of the mid pipe - although I have to fully raise the car to check that one out). Anyone know of better nuts to use that would be less prone to backing off on the T-bolt clamps? Or just use an extra nut, i.e. double nuts.

Heat) Car had overheated at the end of the session. It is an NB2 so I was not sure if a coolant reroute was necessary as my forum searches left me a bit unsure if it is really necessary with the NB2. I had put in a Stant 45868 180 degree thermostat, mishimoto MMRAD-MIA-99 radiator (still using OEM fans). I did not change the coolant mix from 50:50 to mostly water (with water wetter) as it was autox and not HPDE so I just took a chance. Is a coolant reroute absolutely necessary for NB2s or should I give it a shot with just mostly water the next time around. Are fan upgrades necessary?

That setup should not have overheated. I personally think the Mishi radiator is garbage and indistinguishable from the $95 ebay radiator, except for the crappier finish and welds, but it's plenty big to handle some autocross.

Stock fans are also fine and better than most aftermarket fans short of SPAL/FAL.

Do you have an undertray and/or ducting?

I did have the undertray but there is a maybe 1/2 to 1 inch gap between it and the intercooler (i.e. in the front). I was thinking of adding something there to close the gap. No, I have not done any ducting.

Now that I know it should not have overheated, I will definitely look into fixing that gap with the undertray and look into ducting. Thanks.

I did not know that the radiator was garbage. I got it when my OEM radiator had sprung a leak. What do you recommend as I will be sure to change it to a better one when this one goes?

I probably was suffering from brain freeze; duh. It just occurred to me to use some blue thread locker and try that. Hopefully the bolts are not getting too hot. Will report back!

Are your vband clamps already using nylock nuts? That's what mine came with, I'd be surprised if they worked themselves loose without a fair bit of heat..