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MKTurbo NA/NB Turbo Setups

Old 04-27-2018, 01:45 PM
  #1781  
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Originally Posted by 97eunos View Post
Yeah exactly that one, my elbow was a fair bit bigger then the turbo inlet I didn't think it would compress down far enough to fit on there so I put the air filter directly onto it Attachment 220476Attachment 220477 sorry I don't have a picture this second of the comparison of how much bigger it is on mine
Yes, there are 2 sizes of turbo inlet's that Lars is sending out that I know of (I know of the two different housings from the new turbo I got to replace the one that had bad seals). For one you need the coupler, for the other you don't. You are good to go without the coupler with the turbo you have. Just save the coupler in case you have to replace the turbo and you get one with a different size inlet.
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Old 04-27-2018, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 24n46 View Post
Thanks a bunch for your help; great support group here for all experience levels. I'm a bit of a noob at this but have learned quite a bit in doing the project (along with some other mods to the car).

Now that you have pointed me in the right direction, I'll try to find US stock so I can get it sooner. Still have not given up on Lars but I need to get everything sorted before a track event coming up in early May. Once I get everything to where I can trust the setup, I am planning on writing up my experience here to benefit others (it won't help any experienced guys but beginners may benefit).
Nik
Update: Got the new turbo. Installed it. No more issues. Runs great. I have a rebuild kit coming and will rebuild the old turbo one day. But for now, need to get the car tuned some more.
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:18 PM
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That air filter piece definitely doesn't fit on my NA with PS
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Old 04-29-2018, 07:41 PM
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Um... Turn it maybe?
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Old 04-29-2018, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post
Um... Turn it maybe?
It wouldn't fit with the cruise control actuator. I haven't tried it without the actuator yet, but I feel like it still wouldn't fit
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Old 04-30-2018, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cpierr03 View Post
It wouldn't fit with the cruise control actuator. I haven't tried it without the actuator yet, but I feel like it still wouldn't fit
Just move the actuator.

Miata Cruise Control Relocation Kit for Miata
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Old 04-30-2018, 03:00 PM
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and trim the 90 if need be.
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Old 04-30-2018, 04:02 PM
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I moved my cruise actuator up by the masters and it worked fine.
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Old 04-30-2018, 05:17 PM
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Thanks everyone, was looking for clarification from Lars/other people with his kit that relocation was necessary on NA.
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Old 04-30-2018, 06:04 PM
  #1790  
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NA's have terrible real estate availability underhood, everything is fighting with everything else to occupy the same places. Gotta get creative
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Old 05-01-2018, 04:59 PM
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Name brand upgrade options, what out there compared to the gt2560? Mine took a **** after 130 miles. New one already on the way but would like to plan for the long term.
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Old 05-01-2018, 05:36 PM
  #1792  
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some weird t3 garrett probably
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Old 05-01-2018, 08:40 PM
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I wasted 2 turbos, but they were both my fault. I had major boost leaks both times and spun them to infinity. Be sure to rule out anything like that, before upgrading to a high dollar version. It would suck to have the same thing happen.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
I bet this is what you're looking for:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/468100-0000...NaxJkx&vxp=mtr

I bet the CHRA on all these T3 eBay turbos is the same. And that kit is more likely to fit vs. a genuine Garrett kit.
Thank you for the tip.

I rebuilt the old turbo with a similar kit from a USA seller so I got it rather quick. I reinstalled the old turbo and its running great; no more leaks. The seal on the exhaust side was probably bad & everything else looked fine but I ended up replacing the two journal bearings as well.

For anyone else who may be concerned about doing this, I'd say its fairly straight forward and so try it out before you chuck the turbo. There is one important thing to make sure that the shaft is balanced when you put the nut back on (mark the nut with the turbine wheel on the compressor side and make sure when you tighten it down the marks line up - mine already had a mark and I put an additional one just in case - I noticed after I decided to open it up again and replace the bearings anyway that my marks with a sharpie had faded - so maybe scour a mark with an exacto knife). I don't know how long it will last the way I did it as some people on forums have suggested that you have to rebalance it and this procedure won't last, but it is worth a try than throwing the whole thing out. I guess time will tell.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:49 AM
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First of all the good news. The car was a blast to drive at autox. Did quite well.

At the end of the autox session, I found a few issues which I need help with.

Nuts) I had the exhaust tightened quite a bit towards the transmission and it was running very good without any more [significant] vibrations or noise. After the session, the exhaust nuts had vibrated a bit loose (both at the turbo end and the downpipe - maybe even the one at the back of the mid pipe - although I have to fully raise the car to check that one out). Anyone know of better nuts to use that would be less prone to backing off on the T-bolt clamps? Or just use an extra nut, i.e. double nuts.

Heat) Car had overheated at the end of the session. It is an NB2 so I was not sure if a coolant reroute was necessary as my forum searches left me a bit unsure if it is really necessary with the NB2. I had put in a Stant 45868 180 degree thermostat, mishimoto MMRAD-MIA-99 radiator (still using OEM fans). I did not change the coolant mix from 50:50 to mostly water (with water wetter) as it was autox and not HPDE so I just took a chance. Is a coolant reroute absolutely necessary for NB2s or should I give it a shot with just mostly water the next time around. Are fan upgrades necessary?
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:55 AM
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That setup should not have overheated. I personally think the Mishi radiator is garbage and indistinguishable from the $95 ebay radiator, except for the crappier finish and welds, but it's plenty big to handle some autocross.

Stock fans are also fine and better than most aftermarket fans short of SPAL/FAL.

Do you have an undertray and/or ducting?
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
That setup should not have overheated. I personally think the Mishi radiator is garbage and indistinguishable from the $95 ebay radiator, except for the crappier finish and welds, but it's plenty big to handle some autocross.

Stock fans are also fine and better than most aftermarket fans short of SPAL/FAL.

Do you have an undertray and/or ducting?
I did have the undertray but there is a maybe 1/2 to 1 inch gap between it and the intercooler (i.e. in the front). I was thinking of adding something there to close the gap. No, I have not done any ducting.

Now that I know it should not have overheated, I will definitely look into fixing that gap with the undertray and look into ducting. Thanks.

I did not know that the radiator was garbage. I got it when my OEM radiator had sprung a leak. What do you recommend as I will be sure to change it to a better one when this one goes?
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 24n46 View Post
First of all the good news. The car was a blast to drive at autox. Did quite well.

At the end of the autox session, I found a few issues which I need help with.

Nuts) I had the exhaust tightened quite a bit towards the transmission and it was running very good without any more [significant] vibrations or noise. After the session, the exhaust nuts had vibrated a bit loose (both at the turbo end and the downpipe - maybe even the one at the back of the mid pipe - although I have to fully raise the car to check that one out). Anyone know of better nuts to use that would be less prone to backing off on the T-bolt clamps? Or just use an extra nut, i.e. double nuts.
I probably was suffering from brain freeze; duh. It just occurred to me to use some blue thread locker and try that. Hopefully the bolts are not getting too hot. Will report back!
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Old 05-09-2018, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 24n46 View Post
I probably was suffering from brain freeze; duh. It just occurred to me to use some blue thread locker and try that. Hopefully the bolts are not getting too hot. Will report back!
Are your vband clamps already using nylock nuts? That's what mine came with, I'd be surprised if they worked themselves loose without a fair bit of heat..
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Old 05-09-2018, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cpierr03 View Post
Are your vband clamps already using nylock nuts? That's what mine came with, I'd be surprised if they worked themselves loose without a fair bit of heat..
Yes they came with those types of nuts and I'm using them. I have polyurethane bushings in my suspension, differential and competition engine mounts which is probably causing more harsh vibrations than normal. The handling is phenomenal. As it was my first real test of the car after the build, I did not push it 100% to the limit.

The miata platform is so good that it fared better at the timed event than 80% of the other much more expensive cars that were there. It was amusing to hear some remark "I don't think so." Of course their remarks did not need any response; just went out and drove the car to my satisfaction and the results were very good. Lars has developed a very good kit that is proving out. I'm just now working out a few kinks and this site and people have been of great help. Lars too has helped me with my very naive questions all throughout. Doing the work myself and learning by following the rest of you has made me more comfortable with my car. Once fully confident in the build and setup, I'll see how much better we can do in those time trials. My goal is not to belittle anyone, but just be satisfied that it is possible for someone who started six months ago with zero knowledge in this field can build something all by themselves and get a very decent result.
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