SADFab products thread
Swinging back around to the Magnacore wires being more expensive. I do believe they have a lifetime warranty. So that might be a selling point for the higher price point. Might just offer it as an extra upgrade.
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
These aren't made by magnecor. They are made by Sean. Hence the $30 cheaper price than a standard set of magnecors. Doubt the lifetime warranty stands when not made by them.
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Just a tip, but make sure to crimp them super duper well and when installing use a ton of that lube/grease stuff, cause the wires tended to come off the crimp on a couple cars I've done now
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Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 97
Total Cats: 38
We stand behind all of our products. And if anything happens like that we will gladly do a wire "rebuild". We have built a lot of wires and extra tight crimps are standard practice. Thanks for the heads up.
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Well you give magnecor all the specs and have them make the wires, then have the lifetime warranty. I had them do that for my wires with my FM coil bracket and I am pretty happy with them.
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,560
Total Cats: 1,143
From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
Ill try to put all that data into a google sheet, and post it on our open source page, and here too.
I use professional style adjustable ratcheting crimpers. I set them as tight as the dies will allow for plug wires to try and avoid any "pull out"
Also, copious amounts of silicone lube is used for assembly, as its not only good practice, but required for some of the tighter fitting boots. Having said that, you should always pull the on the boot and not the wire itself. And ALWAYS use silicone lube on the inside diameter of the boots or wherever they slip over a coil post or spark plug porcelain.
As discussed, if one pulls out, I will gladly repair it. If its been obviously abused or was pulled by the wire(and yes, you can usually tell by how the silicone jacket looks), Ill still repair it for you, but would ask that you pay for parts and shipping.
Im going to order a big tube of silicone grease and start lubing the boots for you guys so they are ready to go out of the box.
Thanks everyone!
I use professional style adjustable ratcheting crimpers. I set them as tight as the dies will allow for plug wires to try and avoid any "pull out"
Also, copious amounts of silicone lube is used for assembly, as its not only good practice, but required for some of the tighter fitting boots. Having said that, you should always pull the on the boot and not the wire itself. And ALWAYS use silicone lube on the inside diameter of the boots or wherever they slip over a coil post or spark plug porcelain.As discussed, if one pulls out, I will gladly repair it. If its been obviously abused or was pulled by the wire(and yes, you can usually tell by how the silicone jacket looks), Ill still repair it for you, but would ask that you pay for parts and shipping.
Im going to order a big tube of silicone grease and start lubing the boots for you guys so they are ready to go out of the box.
Thanks everyone!
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Ill try to put all that data into a google sheet, and post it on our open source page, and here too.
I use professional style adjustable ratcheting crimpers. I set them as tight as the dies will allow for plug wires to try and avoid any "pull out" Also, copious amounts of silicone lube is used for assembly, as its not only good practice, but required for some of the tighter fitting boots. Having said that, you should always pull the on the boot and not the wire itself. And ALWAYS use silicone lube on the inside diameter of the boots or wherever they slip over a coil post or spark plug porcelain.
As discussed, if one pulls out, I will gladly repair it. If its been obviously abused or was pulled by the wire(and yes, you can usually tell by how the silicone jacket looks), Ill still repair it for you, but would ask that you pay for parts and shipping.
Im going to order a big tube of silicone grease and start lubing the boots for you guys so they are ready to go out of the box.
Thanks everyone!
I use professional style adjustable ratcheting crimpers. I set them as tight as the dies will allow for plug wires to try and avoid any "pull out"
Also, copious amounts of silicone lube is used for assembly, as its not only good practice, but required for some of the tighter fitting boots. Having said that, you should always pull the on the boot and not the wire itself. And ALWAYS use silicone lube on the inside diameter of the boots or wherever they slip over a coil post or spark plug porcelain.As discussed, if one pulls out, I will gladly repair it. If its been obviously abused or was pulled by the wire(and yes, you can usually tell by how the silicone jacket looks), Ill still repair it for you, but would ask that you pay for parts and shipping.
Im going to order a big tube of silicone grease and start lubing the boots for you guys so they are ready to go out of the box.
Thanks everyone!
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Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 97
Total Cats: 38
Open source file for the coil mounts has just been posted
http://sadfab.com/opensource.html#coilmount
http://sadfab.com/opensource.html#coilmount
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Is there any trimming required of the rear most hole depending on which valve cover is being used? I cant seem to line up one of the holes, the center between cylinders 2 and 3
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