MSPNP MSPNP specific Megasquirt related discussion.

Couple MS Questions

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Old 03-16-2020, 08:31 PM
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Default Couple MS Questions

Car is a 2002 NB LS. Bone stock before I got it. Clean florida car, zero rust. Impeccable.

Got a full MK turbo kit with flowforce injectors then got their COP. The MKturbo kit although unused, came with a used aem wideband, used boost gauge, A pillar mount and manual boost controller. (also came with EBC but i'm not sorting through the old stuff, will get new stuff when the car is running).

Everything is installed and configured per https://goflowforce.com/instructions and MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

1- First issue. When I configured everything and had the key on run position, after 1-6 minutes or so while going through MS, there would be a humming/buzzing sound. It was the FlowForce COP throwing constant spark. They heated up pretty quickly. No spark when cranking (with CAS plug not in, so that makes sense). but would buzz, throw constant spark, and heat up with key just on run position. weird. Have email into Nigel.

2- Cam Angle Sensor wasn't fully inserted. Plugged it in and the sumbitch started up. doh.

3- Wideband O2 wasn't reading in megasquirt. 30-4110. Was showing values on gauge, but not MS. Hooked the power to the fuse panel with add a fuse. Grounded the O2 to engine ground (by throttle body). The white wire i put into the option port, C "Analog Input". I'm guessing I should have put it into H "5v Reference" ?? I will make sure it's in position P0.

4- Cold start, car ran very good at idle, around 1500-1800 rpm. when it warmed up and dropped to 750 RPM it sounded like it had a huge cam. As it warmed up, the AFR's got more lean. I need to look more into that, but any thread suggestions would be fantastic. Do I run PID over 1300 RPM? Let Autotune manage this, then turn off?

Sorry for the total noob questions. First time doing this...

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Old 03-18-2020, 12:28 AM
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5v ref is just that, 5v. Not an input. Check the white wire with a multimeter, make sure it’s outputing appropriate for the 0-5v values given to you in the instructions. If not, you have a wideband issue. If it is, you have a MS/pin issue.

#4=you need a wideband and then tune it
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Old 03-18-2020, 06:37 PM
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have a ms3/pin issue.

Pulled the only pin in the optional connector port. Started car, read 2.2-4.0 as the car warmed up the Voltage increased.

Put it in the plug, locked in. Tried to put in upside down (didn’t work). Nothing in tuner studio.

have an email into diyautotune.

what can I expect to have to do inside the ecu to get it reading the signal? Ready to get this thing on the road!
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Old 03-19-2020, 11:23 AM
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Sounds about right, 2.2 volts should be a little under 14.7, 4.0 volts would probably be a little lean but you obviously need to get TS reading that voltage before bothering tuning it.
You have the wideband output pinned to pin C, correct? Have you selected analog input 2 in the AFR/EGO control menu and calibrated for an AEM sensor?
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Old 03-19-2020, 12:21 PM
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This is completely unrelated to your main question, but I prematurely ended the life of my starter by having 18 degrees of Cranking Advance. My first MS came that way. Reverant recommended 8 degrees.
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Old 03-19-2020, 12:24 PM
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For all the noobs out there, make sure you put the pin in the right spot on the auxiliary plug ☺️

swapped that and it’s perfect. Wow.

mill check the cranking thanks
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Old 03-19-2020, 10:16 PM
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Ok here is another question. I need to get my fuel tables set right and then worry about startup, idle, etc. Well I'm having two issues and they are preventing me from doing further testing.

on cold starts, the car fires right up. When it is up to operating temperature, it will not start. Unless i bump start it in 2nd. Cranks cranks cranks, feathering throttle does nothing to RPM. What ballpark do I need to look at?

When the car is running at operating temperature and I drive it, if i come down on RPM too quickly it stalls. Say driving at 3,000 rpm (still breaking in clutch and bedding rotors) and i push the clutch in, the rpm dip to 400 ish, raise up slightly, then the car shuts off.

This makes it very hard to drive and do the auto tune on the basic setting.

She also idles very lean and havne't figured that out yet either. Will get logs when I can.

here are my current settings. I did update my injector cranking pulse %



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Old 03-19-2020, 11:02 PM
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mine is set from diyautotune at 15...seeing conflicting info on this.


Originally Posted by poormxdad
This is completely unrelated to your main question, but I prematurely ended the life of my starter by having 18 degrees of Cranking Advance. My first MS came that way. Reverant recommended 8 degrees.
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Old 03-19-2020, 11:51 PM
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I’d try giving the 180 cell at least 110%, but it sounds like your idle table is too lean. Do you get any starter kick back? If so, take that 15* cranking advance and bring it down to 10 or 5 until that goes away.
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Old 03-19-2020, 11:55 PM
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I’ll give that a shot to bump up a bit.

even if it was lean wouldn’t giving it less than 70% throttle (anti flooding setting) allow it to start? I’m not getting jack squat. That’s what has me confused. I’ll get some logs tomorrow.

it kicked back once on me on the first startup.
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Old 03-21-2020, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Blysccr
mine is set from diyautotune at 15...seeing conflicting info on this.
I found several places where the default provided is not what's really desired. For example, the Overrun Fuel Cut help menu says something like the recommended advance when OFC is active is about 2 degrees. Mine came with 36 degrees set as default.

My starter would go whrrrr, whrrrrrr, whrrrrrrr, BANG, whrrrr, whrrrrrr, whrrrrrrr, BANG, until I reduced the cranking advance to 8 degrees. Just because it came with a number already populated in a modifiable field doesn't necessarily mean it's right or what you want.
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Old 03-21-2020, 12:07 PM
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We can close this thread. Sent several rods and pistons through the oil pan yesterday.
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