zipstrips

iTrader: (2)

a quick run down of what im working with...

-DIYPNP Nippon Denso 76pin Unassembled Kit
-DIYPNP Upgrade: Sequential Injection Kit
-MapDaddy 4 Bar MAP Sensor with Barometric Correction


so far i have mostly followed the DOC here :DIYPNP Main Board Assembly - DIYAutoTune.com


i skipped step 3...


Q17 was confusing in the photos. i omitted the little white plastic ring. did not see how to actually mount it flush, use the clear mica, and include that part.



map daddy.. mounted as seen here. http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...40725112_n.jpg

- ran wire to baro in to baro out as you can probably make out in the photo...



seq injection. mounted as seen in my above photo. its going into my 91 miata, 1.8L fires 1,3,4,2... i am unsure where to run my wire.. the photos on line show v1.1 board and its vague where it actually goes to... im sure im missing something obvious here but i wanted to double check before i solder it.. i currently do no have access to wick for mistakes (currently sitting in afghanistan!) so it will have to wait if i make any...




i also ordered the EBC.. so to "wire" in boost control ? in/out goes to a vacant ports on my PNP board? and the ebc gets wired into my harness side to make it a "PNP" app as well? is there a "standard" pin used for this instead of DIY.. id like to keep it uniform for future reference.



and finally, E85 or above... id like to have e85 as a feature to grow into.. i was looking at something like the zextronic real time sensor w/ gauge.. now to have the DIYPNP ready is it the same at the EBC? in/out to vacant spots on my 76pin? run zex sensor into harness for "PNP" ease?


thanks in advance guys! anything i am missing here? looking to be using a 99 head on this build, do i go ahead and mod for the 99TB? just thought of it as i post this.. will go look for into.....

lagos

Hey Zips, long time no see man!

I recently built this same exact kit for my Celica. To install the sequential injection addon, you solder on the connector on the board. Then you will have two wires Inj3 and Inj4 that you need to solder to the board. From there you have two options as to where to run them. Option 1 is to look around in the area where the board plugs in. You will see two holes marked 3 and 4. If you make the connection there, it will just run the signal through the pcb board to the inj3 inj4 edge connectors. I didn't really like this option as it was difficult to solder and basically prevents you from removing the seq injection board if you ever need to do that. For my setup I just ran two wires from the seq board directly to my factory harness connector board.

I have a few pictures here that might help.
My DIYPNP install! - 6G Celicas Forums

zipstrips

iTrader: (2)

Hey Art! nice to hear from you! hope all is well!!! im just about finished with the this build and ill be building one for the celica next. just need to double check my ecu partnumbers before i order...

zipstrips

iTrader: (2)

'90-'93 Miatas originally used two-channel batch injection.

i guess ill need to mod my injector harness for 2 new outputs? anyone do this that can share there experience?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yes.

cut the pairings and wire INJ A B C D to cly 1 3 4 2 respectively.

zipstrips

iTrader: (2)

thanks Brain! i wont be able to visit that portion until i return home mid november.

I am only working with the wiring mods inside the diypnp 1.5v right now.

I am currently stuck or possibly overwhelmed, (over thinking) a few of these steps.

I skipped INJ1 to 4U and INJ 2 to 4V in fear of it being wrong for the seq injection mod.

The 91 will be receiving a BP, so i went ahead for the variable TPS mods which was TPS SIG to 4L, and VREF to 1N.

Fuel pump to high side driver IN, high side driver out to1C...

Hopefully this is all correct up to this point.

FAN CONTROL:

I am "stuck" at the FAN mod right now.

DIYPNP MegaSquirt installation for the Mazda Miata

Under the 1.5V spread sheet it shows ALED to 1R (FAN).. is ALED actually stamped on the board ALD? and it is to the right of WLD (also actually referenced as WLED. This is NOT the pins located near the 5v/12v pull up portion correct?.)

if i connect ALD to 1R, I can remover the front temp sensor correct?

BOOST CONTROL:

Boost Control IN to PA0, Boost OUT to say DB15 #15.

Now my EBC gets connected to my DB15 #15, and a 12V power source.

any down side to of making my DB15 #1, & #2 a 12V+ source, also #3, & #4 grounds?

Still reading the diy site and on here for answers but i wanted to post as a confirmation that im "ok" or "correct" before i solder it together.

I'm trying to get the ECU to the point where its loaded and i can mail it home. i can then mod my oe harness, build my DB15 harness, and plug it all in finally.

Any reccomenditions on what else i should be setting up inside my ecu while its apart at this time?

thank you all for the help