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MSPNP2 tach malfunctioning in 1.6

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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 04:38 PM
  #21  
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You already broke out the blue/yellow to the ecu though?
Old Mar 5, 2015 | 04:54 PM
  #22  
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Arg, you guys are talking too much before I get to try anything!!

I twisted the black/white and yellow/blue wires back together, and set tach out to TACHOUT pin, everything is working now. Thank you.

I'm hoping this same change will fix laz. Thanks!
Old Mar 5, 2015 | 04:58 PM
  #23  
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If you want to make it cleaner, you can send the tachout to the black/white and not run the blue/yellow.
Old Mar 5, 2015 | 04:59 PM
  #24  
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God dammit aiden, listen to us.

The yellow/blue wire is already in the harness. It's wrapped and pretty from Mazda from the tach all the way to the ignitor, and now goes along the black/white wire to the ecu. It's not getting any prettier than that.
Old Mar 5, 2015 | 05:08 PM
  #25  
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Haha I thought you added a wire from the blue/yellow all the way to the ecu. I broke out the booze a little early today.
Old Mar 5, 2015 | 06:03 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by curly
Arg, you guys are talking too much before I get to try anything!!

I twisted the black/white and yellow/blue wires back together, and set tach out to TACHOUT pin, everything is working now. Thank you.

I'm hoping this same change will fix laz. Thanks!
great!

Old Mar 5, 2015 | 07:27 PM
  #27  
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Tach !
Old Mar 27, 2017 | 01:18 PM
  #28  
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****, didn't load the second page on mobile. Ignore the necro bump.

* Since I already bumped this thread, and it was a great help. Let me aid for anyone in the future wanting to solve this issue, this thread really helped bridge the gap for me.

DIYPNP.

Run pins 4I to TACHOUT inside megasquirt (90-93 cars). Open TunerStudio, go to Tacho output-> ON, select output pin-> TACHOUT, Select speed-> normal.

If you open your Ignitor and solder the joints like I did, there will be no reason to crimp wires. Everything will be ready to go.
This is what your soldered ignitor should look like, probably a better solder job because I am using some shitty equipment.
Name:  LkQGwgJ.jpg
Views: 192
Size:  97.8 KB

A horrible diagram of how it is all connected and run. I'll also link a youtube video on me installing them but I do not setup my megasquirt in the video.
Name:  F78koeR.jpg
Views: 188
Size:  211.7 KB


Last edited by 90civichhb; Mar 27, 2017 at 05:44 PM.
Old Jan 20, 2020 | 07:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 90civichhb
****, didn't load the second page on mobile. Ignore the necro bump.

* Since I already bumped this thread, and it was a great help. Let me aid for anyone in the future wanting to solve this issue, this thread really helped bridge the gap for me.

DIYPNP.

Run pins 4I to TACHOUT inside megasquirt (90-93 cars). Open TunerStudio, go to Tacho output-> ON, select output pin-> TACHOUT, Select speed-> normal.

If you open your Ignitor and solder the joints like I did, there will be no reason to crimp wires. Everything will be ready to go.
This is what your soldered ignitor should look like, probably a better solder job because I am using some shitty equipment.


A horrible diagram of how it is all connected and run. I'll also link a youtube video on me installing them but I do not setup my megasquirt in the video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLmOWPc80KU

90civichhb,

I followed your first video and installed the Toyota COPs. They worked fine, except they started to fail after four or five laps at the track. They worked completely fine on the street. I think they were overheating at the track. I connected the white and black wire with the blue and yellow wire and connected that to the TACHOUT pin on my MS diypnp. And the tack worked fine with the Toyota coils.
Next I converted over to the ls coils just like you did. And just like you, I lost my tach. I followed your recommendations to get the tack back, but it didn't work. Did you simply solder the two center pins in the igniter? It worked with the Toyota COPs, but not with the LS coils?

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