new engine first start
#1
new engine first start
Hi everyone,
I got my turboed engine in my car over the weekend and just got to try to start it. Getting spark and fuel to the engine, and have set the timing to 10 using CAS and MS the rest of the way but the car does not start. I am using E85 and so according to my local dyno tuner who I will be taking the car to I scaled my injector size down 30% from 700cc to 490cc. Tried with both of these parameters and got no start. I will try to attach the tune I'm using, disregard the title I just downloaded a base 1.6 tune to begin off of.
Thanks for any help,
Happy new year.
I got my turboed engine in my car over the weekend and just got to try to start it. Getting spark and fuel to the engine, and have set the timing to 10 using CAS and MS the rest of the way but the car does not start. I am using E85 and so according to my local dyno tuner who I will be taking the car to I scaled my injector size down 30% from 700cc to 490cc. Tried with both of these parameters and got no start. I will try to attach the tune I'm using, disregard the title I just downloaded a base 1.6 tune to begin off of.
Thanks for any help,
Happy new year.
#2
Are your cam and crank sensors connected?
Is the trigger wheel on in the right direction (and not "out" side, in)?
Is your cam timing spot-on (are the cams turning at all)?
Will it fire on the stock ECU?
Would you consider draining the E85 and attempt a start on pump-gas?
I didn't look at your tune (yet), but these are some basics that pop readily to mind.
Is the trigger wheel on in the right direction (and not "out" side, in)?
Is your cam timing spot-on (are the cams turning at all)?
Will it fire on the stock ECU?
Would you consider draining the E85 and attempt a start on pump-gas?
I didn't look at your tune (yet), but these are some basics that pop readily to mind.
#9
There's far too much slack in that belt. Your cam timing is a tooth off. Should be 19 teeth in-between the cam marks. Double check your crank mark as well.
Your reading 68kpa at ambient and that doesn't change much while cranking, also not right unless your located on mount everest. You should have around 100kpa depending on your exact elevation. Where is your vacuum source?
Your also stuck at 10:1 AFR? Is your gauge/indication broken or do you really have so much fuel in the engine that its still pegged max rich even when not cranking?
Your battery is dropping all the way to 7.5 volts while cranking. This is far below what MS wants to properly operate, I'm somewhat suprised it didn't shut down the ECU. Throw a good jumpbox on there, or hook up some starter cables, your battery isn't cutting it with only 11 volts unloaded, and is struggling to hit 200 cranking RPM.
The good news: You don't have any sync errors. Your cam and crank sensors seem to be properly reporting.
E/ I hope the way your timing belt is routed in the picture is NOT how you actually have run? It goes inside both bearings. Not outside like the driver's currently is.
Your reading 68kpa at ambient and that doesn't change much while cranking, also not right unless your located on mount everest. You should have around 100kpa depending on your exact elevation. Where is your vacuum source?
Your also stuck at 10:1 AFR? Is your gauge/indication broken or do you really have so much fuel in the engine that its still pegged max rich even when not cranking?
Your battery is dropping all the way to 7.5 volts while cranking. This is far below what MS wants to properly operate, I'm somewhat suprised it didn't shut down the ECU. Throw a good jumpbox on there, or hook up some starter cables, your battery isn't cutting it with only 11 volts unloaded, and is struggling to hit 200 cranking RPM.
The good news: You don't have any sync errors. Your cam and crank sensors seem to be properly reporting.
E/ I hope the way your timing belt is routed in the picture is NOT how you actually have run? It goes inside both bearings. Not outside like the driver's currently is.
#10
There's far too much slack in that belt. Your cam timing is a tooth off. Should be 19 teeth in-between the cam marks. Double check your crank mark as well.
Your reading 68kpa at ambient and that doesn't change much while cranking, also not right unless your located on mount everest. You should have around 100kpa depending on your exact elevation. Where is your vacuum source?
Your also stuck at 10:1 AFR? Is your gauge/indication broken or do you really have so much fuel in the engine that its still pegged max rich even when not cranking?
Your battery is dropping all the way to 7.5 volts while cranking. This is far below what MS wants to properly operate, I'm somewhat suprised it didn't shut down the ECU. Throw a good jumpbox on there, or hook up some starter cables, your battery isn't cutting it with only 11 volts unloaded, and is struggling to hit 200 cranking RPM.
The good news: You don't have any sync errors. Your cam and crank sensors seem to be properly reporting.
E/ I hope the way your timing belt is routed in the picture is NOT how you actually have run? It goes inside both bearings. Not outside like the driver's currently is.
Your reading 68kpa at ambient and that doesn't change much while cranking, also not right unless your located on mount everest. You should have around 100kpa depending on your exact elevation. Where is your vacuum source?
Your also stuck at 10:1 AFR? Is your gauge/indication broken or do you really have so much fuel in the engine that its still pegged max rich even when not cranking?
Your battery is dropping all the way to 7.5 volts while cranking. This is far below what MS wants to properly operate, I'm somewhat suprised it didn't shut down the ECU. Throw a good jumpbox on there, or hook up some starter cables, your battery isn't cutting it with only 11 volts unloaded, and is struggling to hit 200 cranking RPM.
The good news: You don't have any sync errors. Your cam and crank sensors seem to be properly reporting.
E/ I hope the way your timing belt is routed in the picture is NOT how you actually have run? It goes inside both bearings. Not outside like the driver's currently is.
Hey! Thanks for all the info, I’m not too experienced a tuner so i’ll try to fix some of the things you said when I get a chance. As for the AFR being 10:1 pinned i’m not quite sure if this is because my injector settings were incorrect and there was a ton of fuel or if my O2 sensor is set up improperly. I have a LC-2 I purchased from innovate which is connected directly to the stock harness point for the old sensor, is this proper or should I have used the pin on my MS2 for O2 sensor a plugged it in there and then followed their guide
“How do I configure TunerStudio for the Innovate LC series”
Was trying to figure that out after I had given up for the day.
Also no I did not run the car with that much slack in the timing belt, I ended up letting the springs push the exhaust cam about half a tooth forward and that allowed me to get 19 teeth between, with the cam gears as close as I could get to exactly lined up.
In addition yes the car had been sitting so my battery was very low but we had a charger on it the whole time.
Can you explain what the kpa is and what you mean by where am I getting vaccum from? Do you mean where is the ECU getting vaccum from?
Thanks again for the response
#11
In addition yes the car had been sitting so my battery was very low but we had a charger on it the whole time.
Can you explain what the kpa is and what you mean by where am I getting vaccum from? Do you mean where is the ECU getting vaccum from?
Thanks again for the response
Can you explain what the kpa is and what you mean by where am I getting vaccum from? Do you mean where is the ECU getting vaccum from?
Thanks again for the response
kPa or Kilopascals is the measure of manifold pressure megasquirt and the majority of after market ECU's use. Ambient pressure at sea level is 100kpa, and with the engine off your engine will be at this same pressure. You're reading 68ish kPa, so eather you are very, very high in altitude, or you have your ECU vacuum source incorrectly plumbed. Not every port on the manifold leads to the intake chamber, IIRC one or two just kinda... End, and these will lead to incorrect vacuum readings. Assuming that you have your baro sensor correctly configured, I haven't had a chance to look at your raw tune fine.
#12
Your charger isn't providing enough cranking amperage, or your battery is just so shot it's not helping enough. You want as close to 12v during cranking as possible. 7.5v during cranking just isn't going to cut it even if everything else is perfect.
kPa or Kilopascals is the measure of manifold pressure megasquirt and the majority of after market ECU's use. Ambient pressure at sea level is 100kpa, and with the engine off your engine will be at this same pressure. You're reading 68ish kPa, so eather you are very, very high in altitude, or you have your ECU vacuum source incorrectly plumbed. Not every port on the manifold leads to the intake chamber, IIRC one or two just kinda... End, and these will lead to incorrect vacuum readings. Assuming that you have your baro sensor correctly configured, I haven't had a chance to look at your raw tune fine.
kPa or Kilopascals is the measure of manifold pressure megasquirt and the majority of after market ECU's use. Ambient pressure at sea level is 100kpa, and with the engine off your engine will be at this same pressure. You're reading 68ish kPa, so eather you are very, very high in altitude, or you have your ECU vacuum source incorrectly plumbed. Not every port on the manifold leads to the intake chamber, IIRC one or two just kinda... End, and these will lead to incorrect vacuum readings. Assuming that you have your baro sensor correctly configured, I haven't had a chance to look at your raw tune fine.
#13
Your charger isn't providing enough cranking amperage, or your battery is just so shot it's not helping enough. You want as close to 12v during cranking as possible. 7.5v during cranking just isn't going to cut it even if everything else is perfect.
kPa or Kilopascals is the measure of manifold pressure megasquirt and the majority of after market ECU's use. Ambient pressure at sea level is 100kpa, and with the engine off your engine will be at this same pressure. You're reading 68ish kPa, so eather you are very, very high in altitude, or you have your ECU vacuum source incorrectly plumbed. Not every port on the manifold leads to the intake chamber, IIRC one or two just kinda... End, and these will lead to incorrect vacuum readings. Assuming that you have your baro sensor correctly configured, I haven't had a chance to look at your raw tune fine.
kPa or Kilopascals is the measure of manifold pressure megasquirt and the majority of after market ECU's use. Ambient pressure at sea level is 100kpa, and with the engine off your engine will be at this same pressure. You're reading 68ish kPa, so eather you are very, very high in altitude, or you have your ECU vacuum source incorrectly plumbed. Not every port on the manifold leads to the intake chamber, IIRC one or two just kinda... End, and these will lead to incorrect vacuum readings. Assuming that you have your baro sensor correctly configured, I haven't had a chance to look at your raw tune fine.
Also could the low vaccum be because I had my IC piping disconnected?
Last edited by suvend; 01-03-2023 at 03:42 PM.
#15
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,233
Total Cats: 1,149
This can be done at the ecu. Depin the NBO2 at the ecu connector, cut, strip, and crimp to an options port input.
and as far as I know, the ecu won’t injector fuel below 9v. Other weird **** happens down there too, but that’s a hard cut as far as I’m aware. Keep an eye on that while cranking next time.
and as far as I know, the ecu won’t injector fuel below 9v. Other weird **** happens down there too, but that’s a hard cut as far as I’m aware. Keep an eye on that while cranking next time.
#16
This can be done at the ecu. Depin the NBO2 at the ecu connector, cut, strip, and crimp to an options port input.
and as far as I know, the ecu won’t injector fuel below 9v. Other weird **** happens down there too, but that’s a hard cut as far as I’m aware. Keep an eye on that while cranking next time.
and as far as I know, the ecu won’t injector fuel below 9v. Other weird **** happens down there too, but that’s a hard cut as far as I’m aware. Keep an eye on that while cranking next time.
boost solenoid, I have heard that somewhere on the intake ahead of the compressor is a good spot. Can anyone confirm?
#19
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,233
Total Cats: 1,149
Well the intake isn’t charged, so if you don’t want to remove the compressor housing to drill/tap it, you’d want to weld a bung to the intercooler pipe just before the throttle body. These are typically all 1/8npt btw.