Ben

iTrader: (33)

Let's try something here. Configure the LC1 output going to the MegaSquirt to hold 2.5V. Your MS virtual dash should show ~14.7 AFR (exact reading will depend on the calibration scheme chosen, but we should be within a few tenths here). If it does not show 14.7, check for 2.5V on the analog output wire of the LC1.

After re-reading your posts, it sounds to me like output 1 is still set up for narrowband emulation. You need to set it up for linear wideband output.

buscg1

I emailed diyautotune and this is what you guys replied:


On 5/21/2010 10:37 AM, Brian Baker wrote:
> Hello, I bought the MS9093 PNP for my 90 miata from you. I got it installed and working good. Im starting to wire up the LC1 wideband with guage and just wanted to make sure it was ok to run the guage and ecu off of the brown (analog output 2) wire from the LC1? The yellow wire (analog 1) is different voltage to simulate the old narrowband correct? Thanks, Brian

Hello Brian,

This is fine--just be sure that you use the LMProgrammer software that came with your LC1 to program the LC1's analog outputs according to how you hook it up. The commonly used configuration for this wideband and a megasquirt is 0-5V 10:1-20:1.


Thanks,

Ben Berusch
DIYAutotune.com Technical Support

Please quote your previous emails when you reply, as this will help me look up what we have been discussing and respond to you faster.


Im probably gonna move it, Unfortunately somehow I am missing the 2.5 to serial adapter for the wideband controller so I have to wait until I get one. Right now it works well though. Thats the only reason I wanted to hook it up like that. I will have to change the range to the preffered one as well.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I'm sorry, I must not have understood what you meant in your email. Wire one output per device. One output goes to the MegaSquirt. The other output goes to the gauge. Program the LC-1 with LM Programmer according to your wiring scheme.

buscg1

Cool, Do you guys sell the serial adapter for the LC1, I have know clue where mine is.

malachi_fox

i fixed it, turns out I ran analog out #1 into the mini harness #15 slot instead of the #10 slot like i should have. I soldered it on to 10 and my readings are too close for me to tell any discrepancies. Thank u Ben, and everyone else for the support...miataturbo.net is a legit site

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

How close were your readings? I just got my LC1 working again (dead sensor), and TS is reading anywhere from .1-.5 leaner. The problem is the numbers update so damn fast that I don't know if its actually off.

I did what Ben said(set to read 14.7) and gauge is showing 14.7, but TS is bouncing between 15 and 15.2.

Could the fact that my LC1 wires going to MS are crimped and not soldered have something to do with this?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

my gauge and TS are off about .2 points, so i just changed the output slightly for my TS output so they both matched.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

If you are set for 0-5V, 10:1-20:1 AFR and at 2.5V output you show 15:1, then it sounds like the wideband and ECU are working perfectly together.

I wouldn't worry if there is a small difference between the gauge on the virtual dash and a wideband display gauge. Considering how hard it would be to watch both simultaneously and the fact that they'll probably average the reading slightly different, I'd say that it's spot on, and certainly within the margin of error of the wideband itself.

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

I'm set for 0-5v = .5-1.5 lambda.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

OK, it might be off by just a couple of tenths then. That's still probably inside the wideband's margin of error, but what you can do is set the LC1 for a 2.5V output again and then measure voltage across the o2 pin and ground on the MegaSquirt. We can use this reading to tweak the LC1's output a little to line things up a bit tighter.

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

I set the output to 0-5v=10:1-20:1 and now MS is reading 15.1 at 2.5v. Better.
Also driving around, it seems more accurate. I may just leave it with this.