Alright, I'm really starting to get irritated. I don't think the bipes is retarding the timing. I checked all the displays like the site says to check and they operate fine. The car does start and runs but if I rev up the engine none of the lights on the bipes show any retard. If I really rev up around 3200 - 3300 it sounds like a very bad rattle in the engine. I started looking into all of this because I had to limp home @ 50mph max again today. If I tried to go over 3000 before shifting it would try to stall. Is there any way to test the bipes? Am I on the right track? If I want to drive it should I just disconnect bipes and adjust the timing?

 

It sounds like you've got it wired wrong. I would start by double/triple/quadruple-checking that you have tapped the appropriate wires on the ECU harness. Did you use the diagram from the correct year? Maybe you can post a picture and show us how you wired it.

The other question is WHAT IS YOUR BASE TIMING AND BIPES SETTINGS? For example, if your base timing is 6*, and your asking the Bipes to pull 8*, then you've set the timing curve 12* lower than stock at max pull.

 

Nope, It has been running for the last year,off and on, that way. I had been getting codes 3 and 15 as I stated in another post so I replaced the CAS and o2 sensor. now I am getting the same the same codes plus 17. This is really pissing me off. I pulled the bipes reattached the wires and went to start it and very hard start. So I set the timing to 6 and now it won't start. Smells like it is flooding. oh the timing was set at 12 pulling 6. I am really stumped.

 

It sounds like you might have electrical and fuel problems... one easy way to rule out something major would be to swap in a different stock ECU. There are guys in MD probably with a stack of stock ECU's laying around... just post up a thread that you're looking for one.

That being said, I've never heard of a stock ECU failing, but it's just a computer... they have the potential to go bad over time.