Can't you do the square top as well for higher peak?

 

Already have one

In related news, going on 2 months later and still don't have all the parts I ordered(waiting on downpipe still). I'm impressed with the quality of the manifold and water/oil lines. Having to send individual reminders to ship each part is less impressive. I understand it's a small operation - I'm a small business owner myself - but I would expect a little more.

Also still waiting to see if I can study the shop vvt map since my setup will be so similar.

 

It will always amaze me at how much work goes into making a reliable track car

 

I think that's an unfair assumption on TSE that you're holding. When you ordered the kit two months ago everybody knew that there was still items waiting to be produced/in production. Its never fun to wait and i know that isn't a strong suit of myself but the end result will be worth it.

But the bottom line is he hit snags with production which he states in his thread about the kit and being a one man organization is never easy. Give it time and the results will be stellar. I am sure he could rush production and get the product out sooner but will it be what everybody is hoping for.... Probably not!

 

I took a little longer than I wanted to get all the NA downpipes shipped out due to MRLS prep, and then somehow forgot to ship Humjaba's when I did the rest of them earlier this week. Mea culpa. Everything should be out the door by now, so if you're reading this and you don't have a tracking number, harass me via email and phone.

 

I work in engineering, I understand snags and delays. More of a communication thing I guess - maybe a mailing list of people who have orders outstanding so everyone gets updated? I don't visit the forums all that frequently so maybe I missed the updates, but even in-stock items didn't ship until after multiple emails. No harm done, just suggesting that some more pro-active communication would go a long way.

 

Ran at the local 1/8 mile drag strip just for kicks and grins. Already tossed the slip but the best run of the night was 9.7s @ 72mph with a 2.1s 60' time.

Still sitting on all the turbo parts - need to get a clutch and other bits ordered. Life has been busy.

 

Well, I finally got around to starting on this. Got the new clutch in, injectors in and I was starting on the turbo tonight. First order of business is moving the wastegate actuator bracket... and this ****** feels like it's held in with red Loctite. PB blaster, brand new 4mm allen wrench and it won't budge. I don't know what to do. I did my best to hold the key perpendicular when applying pressure, trying to ease it up and it won't budge. Spun once, which means it's probably fucked. Ideas? I really don't want to take the whole turbo apart and drill this stupid POS

 

Get yourself a 3/16 allen key, throw it in the freezer for a few hours. Heat the bolt up with a torch. Hopefully you can then tap the key into the head of the bolt. Leave it for a few min's to let the key warm up in the bolt. This should friction-fit them together and let you get a much grunt as possible on the bolt. Cross all fingers etc. and give it a twist.

 

You want impact to get a tight bolt to come loose, not easy torque application.

 

I'll just revamp my last line then; " Cross all fingers etc. and give it a twist WHACK. All of the above will just minimize the risk of stripping the head of the bolt is my though.

 

I thought about it some more. I have had great success using this type tool:

This one's from Walmart

 

Put some heat on that bolt? If you suspect Red Loctite and there is nothing around there that could be damaged by a torch, getting the bolt up to 500F should loosen the Loctite.

 

There's no loctite there. Just a bolt that's very tight. Have you tried removing the other two? If you can get the other two off you can use the entire bracket to leverage the stripped fastener counter-clockwise. The tension of the bolt will work in your favor.

 

This trick has saved my *** MANY times. If you can pivot the bracket, which it looks like you have plenty of room to do (obviously in a counter-clockwise direction) It'll break loose easily.

 

I managed to break the other two loose. Ended up taking the compressor housing off and was able to remove the stripped screw with an EZ-out. Nobody local had a flat head cap screw with a hex head (only phillips, which is worse) so it's a regular socket head cap screw and a washer in the middle bolt hole now. I used anti-seize so this doesn't happen again (not that I should need to ever move the wastegate bracket now), unless someone tells me that's a stupid idea.

Oil cooler is on the way, but I've got a track day at Atlanta Motorsports Park in the first week of March, so I decided to throw the car back together sans-turbo. It gives me enough time to break in the clutch and get <100kpa fueling tuned in on the new injectors, at least.

 

Life pro tip: remember to tighten your lugnuts before driving off.

Anyway, I did some driving around last night on the new clutch/flywheel and injectors. Had to modify the cranking IAC valve duty cycle because the RPM's drop so fast after starting, and the crank-to-run time. As for fueling, is it normal that my entire VE table would need to be cut in approximately half? I put the average of the 4 injector flow measurements with the dead time recommended by flow force.

 

If Req_Fuel is reset properly, the changes in the VE table should be small, not 50% change. This presumes the original Req_Fuel was correct, and not fudged.

After putting in the injector size, did you click the "Required Fuel" button and make sure both boxes show the changed value?

 

I have worked on my share of track Miata's and the turbo ones start to lose the turn the key and drive everytime aspect. Just be prepared to work on the car more and have some issues. The turbo will add a bunch of heat to the engine bay and things will start to fail. Expect to replace the exhaust manifold studs with something more heat tolerant like inconel. Also, depending on which turbo you go with, carry a spare wastegate actuator as they can fail on track cars leaving you with no boost, especially if the manifold studs stretch from heat and leak exhaust onto the turbo.

 

He already has Incone studs, because he purchased a turbo kit from the shop that pioneered the use of Inconel studs in turbocharged Miatas. Your concerns are not relevant to this thread.