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The solenoid works (at least, I can hear it in test mode).
But if you look in the log, "boost duty" stays at zero until I let off the throttle, as if it's functioning as some sort of bypass valve. With my target set to 135kpa, shouldn't it be wide open at any MAP higher than 135kPa?
What's your bias table look like? You know, the one you tuned in open loop?
Stole them from the tune Andrew sent me of his shop car (same engine/turbo/etc), figuring that would at least get me in the ballpark. But I'll go dig through the "How to EBC" thread and try from scratch.
Still doesn't make sense to me that it doesn't do something over 135kpa.
Alright, so the EBC definitely works. I put it in open-loop and ran 0% and nothing terrible happened. Put it at 100% and it spiked to boost-cut (12psi) almost instantly. The idea that "more duty cycle" is "more boost" is backwards from Subaru world, and apparently was reversed some firmware versions ago.
So then the remaining question is this - what the heck is wastegate pressure on this thing? I saw 9psi at 3800rpm and 45% throttle and it was still climbing before I chickened out and let off. I believe I followed the EFR instructions for setting the preload, though I can certainly try again.
Edit: Yeah, was running like 6mm preload... backed it off to 2mm and we'll see what that gets me tomorrow. 92 degrees w/ 72 degree dew point... Not my favorite weather to be driving a car with no A/C. For anyone who reads through this, here's the appropriate documentation:
The ingersoll rand 4 port solenoid I use for EBC came with the option for a muffler, which is a little cone shaped metal foam thing that screwed into one of the ports. It makes a sort of psh psh psh psh sound when it's working, but it's not obnoxious or anything.
Finally grew a pair to go WOT. Looks like 2 turns preload - the minimum recommended - is good for ~9.5psi. Still running a hacked up exhaust that leaks like a sieve while I wait for my 3" system to get built, but it's something.
I'm running almost no timing because I'm not sure if the knock sensor is picking up anything valuable with all the exhaust rattling/vibration going on. Other than that, does anyone see anything concerning with this brief 3rd gear pull?
Yeah you're timing is severely retarded....... Be I mean it's retarded to run that little timing. Don't waste your time tuning anything with that little timing it'll all need retweaked. Keep in mind with timing retard you're pushing a lot of combustion out the exhaust valve. This is hard on valves and turbines, you may not knock but you'll tear up parts just as easy.
Yeah you're timing is severely retarded....... Be I mean it's retarded to run that little timing. Don't waste your time tuning anything with that little timing it'll all need retweaked. Keep in mind with timing retard you're pushing a lot of combustion out the exhaust valve. This is hard on valves and turbines, you may not knock but you'll tear up parts just as easy.
So what's a "safe" amount ? Is the MSPNP "turbo tuner" map a decent baseline, even though I'm running a bp6d? Looks like that would be around 15 degrees in the above screenshot. MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
Edit: the knock detection was also pulling 6 degrees. So I'll need to move that threshold up. Here's what my map looks like currently.
I am not knowledgable enough to comment on that subject. Sorry.
But for whats its worth, here is what mine looks like. Although I haven't really played with it too much, only where I saw knock. So take it with a grain of salt.
Won't comment much on the boost cells, but I haven't seen any Miata motor make much naturally aspirated power past ~28* above ~5000. So that 97kpa row at 32.6 kinda bugs me.
Won't comment much on the boost cells, but I haven't seen any Miata motor make much naturally aspirated power past ~28* above ~5000. So that 97kpa row at 32.6 kinda bugs me.
Up to 100kpa is the same as the map I ran when N/A, which is what Reverent sent with the MS3 for the most part. Didn't hear any knock in the cans when we put it on the dyno N/A. Not at all opposed to dialing it back, though it did make good power before.
I haven't knocked even above 30 degrees either, but I usually don't make more power above ~28. Maybe a hp or even 2(!), but N/A Miatas aren't exactly dyno queens...
Looks like the TSE flange isn't even flat. Off to the exhaust shop. Ordered this **** so I wouldn't have to find a slot and drive a car with no exhaust an hour away to the only exhaust shop I trust. Should have just gone there 2 months ago and been done with it.
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