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I just went through this on my build, don't use the cruise control line. Two reasons, first it's behind the throttle body and sees vacuum, this is bad because it'll cause early failure of the actuator diaphragm. Secondly the long line causes the actuator to be lazy when you need it to react quickly. Since you're using an ebc just grab a tap anywhere convient between the turbo and throttle body.
Just leave the vent open, dont mistake it for a dual port actuator.
Say what? You can hear an 1/8" port venting over the turbo and exhaust? You don't need to worry about a muffler, you must have a black hole for a muffler.
I found a torn diaphragm after 500 miles of use, maybe it was caused by something else but there is no advantage to running a post TB port for your boost control.
From the EFR documentation, for anyone else wondering:
Bypass/recirc valve:
CRV Connection The CRV hose nipple should be connected to a source of intake manifold pressure/vacuum DOWNSTREAM of the throttle body. IMPORTANT: This signal hose to the CRV needs to see pressure while under boost, and manifold vacuum when the throttle body is closed. The CRV valve will leak while under boost if pressure is not applied to the nipple. This pressure acts upon the top side of the diaphragm and holds it closed while under boost. The hose nipple on the CRV plastic cover is 6mm OD, so select a suitable hose for connection and then route it to the intake manifold.
And I'm an idiot because the EBC inlet is already plumbed into the turbo compressor housing from BW, and the outlet just needs plugged into the wastegate with the supplied hose. Miataman why didn't you leave it this way, if you're referring to the EBC and not the recirc valve??
The hose beneath the electrical connector is attached to the compressor cover source pressure. The control/outlet port faces upward, roughly in the same direction as the wastegate canister nipple it will be attached to. The third port is the vent and this one should be routed back to the air inlet tract or any other clean, ambient-pressure zone. This vent connection can be left disconnected, but it must be pointed downward in such a case so that water cannot intrude.
Catback on order, ebc plug arrived... left to do before I can putt around on the street:
* Extend IAT wiring
* Wire in EBC and knock sensors
* Heat wrap for brake lines, heater hoses
* What are you guys doing for heat shielding? Is there something off the shelf I can buy? I have no sheet metal fab skills, nor do I know anyone who does
* What is the preferred solution for shrouding? The way I mounted up the intercooler it fits with the factory air director that sits behind the bumper cover, but with piping the rest of the factory shroud will obviously need to be cut up if it's going to fit at all. What have you guys done?
After I enjoy it on the street for a bit and get some kinks worked out, I need to do the water pump and timing belt and so I'll throw in a beefier radiator then (before the next track experience).
So that plug that ev14 plug linked earlier is not the right one, for anyone else reading through this. I've got an email out to BorgWarner to see what they recommend.
Ordered some DEI sleeve and tape for the heater core hoses and to tape up the master cylinder. I also have a wilwood prop valve - I suppose I should make some attempt to tape this up as well? Is there an off-the-shelf heat shield that will fit? The FM one looks like it might, but the wastegate actuator on the EFR sticks up pretty high. Miataman what have you done in that area?
Thanks... Will have to see if there's anyone local I can feed beer to in order to make something happen.
I also couldn't resist the temptation to drive around the block, now that everything is hooked up and I'm just waiting on fiddly stuff. I also have to figure out why the PS is now leaking from the return fitting on the PS pump.
I made a heat shield from aluminium. Bolted it to the master cylinder and the chassis. Also heatwrapped the brake lines and brake reservoir, and put some DEI insulting fiberglass mats on the inside of the hood.
Think it's alright to drive around on the street like this until I get a heat shield worked out? Couldn't get the tape to stick to the master cyl so I hacked up some of the leftover sleeving... not the prettiest but it's better than nothing.
It will probably work. That's how I started with mine. However, after a couple of moderate street drives the temps for me were worrying enough to start making a shield. Just didn't want to take any chances.
edit: mind that I overengineered a lot of stuff on purpose.
Just remember you need an air gap for the shielding to be really effective. I could be wrong, but that reflective tape on the brake lines isn't very useful.
You can also put a 3/8" extension in the heater core hard line, and bend it away from the manifold. You'll have to disconnect the line for that though. Again, you want an air gap. If it's just resting on the manifold like it looks like, you'll introduce a lot of heat to the coolant at that spot.
Boost resource makes a blanket for the exducer, but that doesn't cover the header or the downpipe and is pretty pricey.
Curly - the heater tube has about an inch clearance from the downpipe, it's just the angle of the picture that makes it look like it's touching. Reflective tape on the brake lines aught to reflect the heat radiated by the exhaust (there's probably 3" between the downpipe and the closest brake line). Not as good as a heat shield, probably, which is definitely next on my list - I just can't wait to drive it any longer
Did a bit longer test drive today after hooking up the EBC and knock sensor wiring. Knock sensor appears to do something... what's the threshold? Are there well-defined settings that MT recommends? I saw boost briefly in some spots. I'm guessing "boost duty" in my log is the duty cycle of the bypass valve? I have my target kPa set to 130kpa for the whole map (ie probably lower than wastegate pressure) but the boost duty doesn't seem to be 70% (max) in the brief areas where I'm above 130kpa. Is this normal behavior? Settings below.. w9gazcc.png
Tune attached. And the log is below. It was way lean above 100kpa, which I only saw briefly. I've added a boatload of fuel for the next test drive. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ed85w0qzg8...56.59.msl?dl=0
06-14-2017, 08:57 PM
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