That's because it isn't.

All else being equal, and assuming no fanciness such as variable-geometry turbochargers or sequential configurations, sizing of the turbocharger relative to the engine always involves some form of compromise.

A "small" turbocharger will have a lower boost threshold (it will make boost at a lower RPM) and will thus be perceived to be more responsive than a "big" turbocharger. The downside to this is that the "small" turbocharger cannot flow as much air at the top-end as the "big" turbo, and thus, it is limited in how much power it can make. All turbos operate most efficiently within a certain range of airflow and boost, and their efficiency drops outside of this range. When looking at a compressor map, this is the "island of efficiency."

Within the community of OEM automakers, there is a tendency to select turbochargers which are relatively small. This is done principally to combat the old perceptions of the dreaded "turbo lag" which sprang out of the high-performance cars of the 1970s. In other words, when your typical Joe Carbuyer goes to the dealer and takes a test-drive, he wants to step on the pedal and feel an immediate response, regardless of the fact that he's in the wrong gear and the RPMs are too low.

Within the community of hot-rodders, however, there is a better understanding of how driving style affects engine performance with regard to turbocharger operation. In other words, people understand the concept of downshifting.

So the long and short of it is that your engine, with a relatively large turbocharger on it, is probably capable of a higher top-end (and a taller dyno chart) than your friend's engine with the MSM turbo on it, as that turbo was chosen specifically to optimize performance under low-RPM conditions and create a feeling of responsiveness moreso than to create huge numbers on the dyno.

^ahhh, the power of downshifting...its something you will have to become very familiar with on the miata. Turbo or not.

Props to you sir.

http://www.turbospecialties-race.com...urbo-p-71.html

I have a 2001 Miata, bone stock. I am looking for a little more get up and go but am a little uncertain of the right kit for me. I found this one online Under Google_Shopping_Miata Turbo Kits. Any comments on the kit. Thumbs up or thumbs down? HEre are the details fro the link as well.

Extreme Complete Bolt-on Turbo Kit
Engine: 1.8L BP
Features Garret Turbo: T25 & 2 Injector Fuel Management System
Extreme Complete Kit Includes:

•Garrett Turbo and manifold Preassambled
•Downpipe and gasket
•Polished Charge Piping
•High Flow Intercooler
•Stainless steel braided water lines for turbo cooling
•Blow off valve(recirculating)
•Heat Shield
•Air Intake and Filter
•M.A.F. aluminum mount
•Oil line and fittings to Turbo
•Oil return hose and pan fitting
•AEM F/IC with Larger Injectors
•Optional Plug in PLay Harness
•All hardware, presure lines, hoses, clamps and couplers are included.
•Installation Instructions CD Included. - The 2 Injector Fuel Management System is the true high performance enthusiast and racer will enjoy the outstanding performance, greater horsepower, and increased durability obtained when the injector control unit and the injector interface kit are incorporated with your turbo system. These two items when used in conjuction with each other, make up the most comprehensive and versatile fuel management system available today.

The injector control unit can be used with any turbo system and many configurations of injectors. Where the injector interface kit can be used it is a simple, bolt on cost effective method of adding a controlled amount of fuel to your power plant. Seperate injectors can be installed, up to four, when even greater performance is required or when the injector interface kit isn't applicable.

There are several options some of which are adjustable to create the exact gas/air flow for your power plant. These special functions are:

•This shows your engines current vacum or pressure and rpms.
•If you reset this it will show you the highest amount of boost and highest rpms reached during the current run.
•In order to protect your engine you can set the maximum amount of rpms you wish your engine to be able to reach.
•Your turbo may reach as high as 20,000 rpms and should be allowed to cool off before shutting down engine. This function allows you to set the delay time for the engine to shut down after you turn off the key.
•This position is left open for special request or optional function.
•With this function you can adjust uo to 12 levels the amount of fuel entering the engine as the amount of boost is increased.
•With many turbo systems there can be (turbo lag) experienced when rapidly accelerating. With this special feature you can adjust a controlled amount of fuel to enter the engine as the rpms increase even slightly to compensate for the lag time for the boost to reach the system and then number 7 above takes over. This also helps prevent knocking or pre ignition.
•A simple protection, you can adjust the overall system to run either richer or leaner by one simple adjustment. This may help run cooler on a hot day and help prevent pre ignition or lean it out for some cool days with moisture in the air for racing.
•Pressure limit. If you use an electrically controlled pop off valve you can adjust the amount of boost you wish to maintain which will then allow the pop off valve to open.
•Also a system to help prevent turbo lag and fuel economy by activating ICU unit when it senses a change in the vacum level. It will provide a predetermined amount of increased fuel upon instant acceleration. This is adjustable in a accordance with the users desire to achieve full horsepower during acceleration or economy for daily driving.

No.

Dann

Activate the ICU!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1334658116


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1334658116

Can prevent fuel economy!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1334676402

If the picture is accurate, that looks like one of the least incomplete knockoffs I've seen, with one of the least poorly-designed manifolds.

Don't buy it.

Well, the fact that you posted under the "Ebay" turbo banner is going to draw some negative comments ..

The kit does not look bad to me and it claims a name brand turbo. However I know very little about your specific year car.

Regardless, I would stick with Bell Engineering or Flying Miata unless you get the kit for free and even then I'd hesitate.

Urban Soot had that kit installed for a bit.

I guess my big question is can you make these kits work if installed with all nessasary parts?

If by necessary parts you mean replacing 75% of them with quality parts then yes.

You'll spend more getting a fleaBay kit to work compared to just starting with a good kit. Don't ---- around with fleaBay kits, except for intercoolers. The intercooler kits are surprisingly decent.

The problem is the three big expenses are the things you'll replace, that being fuel management, manifold, and downpipe. The first is missing, the second two will crack.

The only good stuff in an ebay kit are the intercoolers, pipes, bov, and sometimes the turbo. All can be had for cheaper than a turbo kit. I'd replace the couplers, which have been known to blow, but on a budget and MS, I'd run them on the street. I say MS, because with a blown coupler and MS it'll still get you home, unlike piggy backs which usees the AFM still.

you can have a turbo 1.6l manifold off ebay for 140~ shipped that will last for daily driving just fine.
Get a downpipe made and some ebay intercooler piping and intercooler, hardware wise you will be set for the big hard to do stuff.

well as name says i got a 1994 Miata MX5 for free. runs great and with a pacific juntion not far away i thought i could have some fun with this and use it as a cheap run about instead of getting 10mpg in a v8 mustang. so i googled miata turbo kits and this site popped up. ive gone threw 10 pages of reading and can say the people on this site are a bunch of keyboard jokey dick smacks. You crap on every person that askes question. After 10 pages all i can pick up on is every kit is crap bla bla bla fuel managment bla bla bla. so here's my noob quiestion what kit is most complete and what is the shopping list of parts they need to complete or what is list of parts if i buy one by one. sorry for being so blunt but even my mustang and camaro forums are more polite then you guys. have a nice day :)

Obviously you have not read multiple pages of this forum or you would know not to ask the questions that you asked. Go back and read the stickies at the top of all the different sections and then maybe come back and ask questions and we will not crucify you.

Those ebay kits are plenty complete. Don't listen to the blah blah fuel management people, they don't know what they are talking about. Just buy that ebay kit and crank it up to about 20 psi and you will be fine.

Flyin miata and begi both sell kits that are actually complete and aren't complete crap.

But otherwise. Pull that dick out of your ass ------, and learn to miata turbo.

Second this statement. Most of the guys that bash the ebay kits just do it because they spent so much extra on a bunch of crap that does the same thing. A turbo is a turbo and a manifold is a manifold. It's not rocket science.

:rofl: The very root of this fuel management concept is that if you force twice as much air into a motor, you should also supply it with more fuel, otherwise bad things will happen. You really should consider accepting this as fact rather than testing it yourself, that's all we're saying.

Most kits on ebay or "outlets" on other sites don't have a regular or is it more then regular. With the 5.0s and LS motors you do fuel pump, regular and bump up injectors. Will stock miata injectors do the job if not they use a one off injector. "Have lots of ford aftermarket injectors of verious sizes" and if fuel pump is needed what is best for miata. :makeout: can't we all be friends ;)