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Old 12-12-2006, 06:16 PM   #1
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Default Everything i need to know.

Well time has come, ill be getting a greddy kit very soon and want to make sure i have everything in check.

Is there a guide, or instructions on how to install the kit someone can link? My dad has installed kits on other cars before, but id really rather be sure.

So i follow instructions, install the kit. What do i need to worry about?

Ill drop the timing to 8deg(with intercooler), do i need to run different "cold" spark plugs?

How about an O2 clamp?

What else do i need to do to make sure its running good? Does anyone here have any special tuning tips?

I just want to make sure i keep my car as reliable as possible, and quick too.

The car is a 1990, 165k miles, but has been rebuild around 8k miles ago (professionally by my father who has worked on cars for 30+ years.)

Last edited by Fireindc; 12-12-2006 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 12-12-2006, 06:55 PM   #2
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Old 12-12-2006, 07:44 PM   #3
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Thanks, that helps alot!

Any other links/info is welcome!
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Old 12-12-2006, 08:13 PM   #4
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damn dude. Dont read that site. Read MINE. That **** is so outdated and incorrect.


to sum up though: make the manifold cuts, run one step colder plug (BKR7E), 8* should be ok (listen for ping), o2 clamp is covered in my FAQ.
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Old 12-12-2006, 08:23 PM   #5
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Oh yeah, ive read all of your FAQ and DIY, which is why i know as much as i know =)

Thanks!
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Old 12-12-2006, 09:59 PM   #6
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Yup, Brains FAQ is the proverbial shiznit!
What kind of boost are you planning on running?
What intercooler are you using?
What about a BOV? VTA or Recirculate?
02 clamp is a good idea, but not the next stage.

The Greddy kit comes with it's (disc type) FPR and in conjunction with the stock fuel pump and 1.6 injectors is only good for I believe 5-6psi even with an intercooler (a Greddy expert might correct that amount). You're running an intercooler so I assume you want to run more than that. Research an upgraded fuel pump (Walbro 190hp's are about $90 shipped and take 1/2hour to install.) and bigger injectors (1.8 injectors are $50 a set used).

If you plan on doing any tuning, you'll need a fuel pressure gauge. They're about $10 at any hydraulic shop and are easy to splice into the fuel feed line. Be sure to get a gauge that reads up to at least 130psi.

Before you turn up the boost too much, remember that the stock clutch can only handle so much. I had a good deal of slip starting at about 7psi. If you abuse the stock one with 5psi, it probably won't last. Budget $400 for a clutch that will handle up to about 10psi.

A manual boost contoller (MBC) can be had on eBay for $15. You could spend $100 on some name brand unit but the $15 ones work just as well.
Here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Voodo...59552325QQrdZ1 They come anodized in several colors if that's your thing.
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Old 12-12-2006, 11:07 PM   #7
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Sam, you need to learn how to sum things up in less words. I hate reading through all your posts because I don't like to read. I listen to books on cd.
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Old 12-12-2006, 11:19 PM   #8
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I thought you were rolling with THE POWER OF GREYSKULL this week... OK, OK, I'll try.
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Old 12-12-2006, 11:22 PM   #9
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I think He-Man acutally puts me in a bad mood. Or maybe it's my horrible oil consumption...I dunno.
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Old 12-13-2006, 07:39 PM   #10
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Thanks for all the help so far guys!

Here is the kit im buying https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5945

Ill be installing it the weekend after i get it, and thats why i want to make sure i have everything =)

The wastegate is set for 6 psi, and im just planning on running that for a while, because i cant afford clutch etc right now.

I really just want everything to go smoothly, thanks for any insight!
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Old 12-14-2006, 08:56 PM   #11
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Wow, as it turns out ill be getting a brand new bipes to add to this setup!(my best friend bough one thinking he was getting a voodoo2 FM kit and is now upgrading to FM2 with a link, gonna sell it brand new for 100 bucks- what a badass friend !!!)

I was also wondering about the oil, i changed it about 100 miles ago, and the turbo will go on in about 50 or so id guess.

Does it need to be changed AGAIN?!, everything ive read said to change the oil. Also regular non-synthetic is ok right? What kind of regular oil would you recommend?!
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Old 12-14-2006, 09:01 PM   #12
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I don't recommend regular oil. If you want your turbo to last long, you'll want to run synthetic. The synthetic not only lubricates everything including your motor better but it doesn't Coke in the turbo nearly as bad so idling before shutdown isn't quite as important. There is no reason not to run synthetic so I suggest changing it out for some.
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Old 12-14-2006, 09:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braineack View Post
damn dude. Dont read that site. Read MINE. That **** is so outdated and incorrect.


to sum up though: make the manifold cuts, run one step colder plug (BKR7E), 8* should be ok (listen for ping), o2 clamp is covered in my FAQ.
Also clearance the water pipe where it bolts to the manifold.

Don't forget to curse a lot when it's time to connect all the greddy charge piping.
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Old 12-14-2006, 09:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
Wow, as it turns out ill be getting a brand new bipes to add to this setup!(my best friend bough one thinking he was getting a voodoo2 FM kit and is now upgrading to FM2 with a link, gonna sell it brand new for 100 bucks- what a badass friend !!!)

I was also wondering about the oil, i changed it about 100 miles ago, and the turbo will go on in about 50 or so id guess.

Does it need to be changed AGAIN?!, everything ive read said to change the oil. Also regular non-synthetic is ok right? What kind of regular oil would you recommend?!
I think that you'll have to empty the oil to drill the pan anyway. Unless you aren't using that type of return line. Synthetic is a must really.

T25MIATA
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Old 12-14-2006, 10:44 PM   #15
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If you're going to tap the oil pan, there's the potential (no matter how careful you are) to leave shavings in the pan. My suggestion is after your initial install, fill up with the cheapest 10w30 dino-stuff they have at your local store... then when you're confident after a couple hundred miles that any bugs are worked out, run your favorite brand of synth through it. Mobil1 10w30 or 5w30(colder climates) is popular. Some guys swear by 20w50, but it's impossible to find that weight in full synth around here.

If you're not going to tap the pan, shavings aren't an issue, just do a change in conjunction with the install and you'll be fine. Most guys say change your oil every 2500 miles, but I also think I remember Corky Bell saying that if you're using synth, even 5000 miles is OK. I'll be doing mine every 3000 like I do w/every car I've ever owned. I think I'm gonna burn a quart or so between every change, so I'll be adding as I go.
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Old 12-15-2006, 06:30 PM   #16
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Wow thanks for all of the tips. The engine has 165k miles on it, but has been rebuilt(about 8k miles ago). Its whole life has been regular oil, almost everyone ive asked says that you will get a few leaks when switching from regular to synthetic which is why im worried. But it its for the good of the turbo i can keep topping up when needed. Now what weight would you reccomend for say... 90deg dry summers to -20deg cold winters? New Mexico is a bitch =P.

Also one more thing!, i WAS planning on using the oil supply and return lines already there, why is it such a big deal to drill one, is it that much better for running say 6 psi of boost? Also how do you connect the line once you drill the hole, what fittings would i need? Just trying to get EVERYTHING sorted out before going in!

So what ill be doing is:

-Making relief cuts on the manifold(already done by previous owner)
-One step colder plugs(BKR7E)
-Installing the Bipes(running stock timing and having it retarded 6deg)
-Changing to synthetic oil
-Maybe drilling the pan for the return line.
-Clearance the water pipe where it bolts to the manifold(dont know what that means)

Any other suggestions? Dont want to **** anything up =)

Thanks again!,
Nate.
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Old 12-15-2006, 06:43 PM   #17
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Drilling the pan will save a lot of headache later on...the drain path is much more direct, so keeping the line running downhill is easier. Much less chance of kinking or running horizontal, which lessens the risk of pushing oil past the turbo oil seals.

When you take off your exhaust manifold, you'll see the water pipe clearance issues.
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Old 12-15-2006, 07:04 PM   #18
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Oh thanks!, I think for temporary at least im going to install it using what it comes with.
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Old 12-15-2006, 07:15 PM   #19
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If done with care, the GReddy around the engine thing will work OK. I've got over 30K on mine and the only problem has been to hose getting brittle at the turbo. A short piece of pipe to change the hose section closest to the turbo every once in awhile takes care of that.
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Old 12-15-2006, 09:31 PM   #20
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Olderguy is correct, the "around the front of the engine Greddy style" has worked fine for lots of people... but simply drilling a hole in your oil pan and threading a brass bard in there, then running 1 foot of hose straight down instead of 4 feet around the engine provides much better oil drainage and is a cleaner install.

DON'T RUN STOCK TIMING AND THE BIPES. The purpose of the Bipes is so you can run advanced timing and pull it as the revs rise. Even w/o an intercooler, I'd say you could easily bump up your timing to 12* and use the Bipes to take out... maybe 6* back to a safe 6*. During the summer months, w/o an intercooler, probably need to take out a little more for the NM heat. But trust me, once you run 6psi for a few months, you'll be reasearching an I/C and turning up the boost. Somebody else may correct me on the running that kind of advance w/o IC though.

The pipe clearance thing. Attached to the front of the motor on the lower drivers side is a small assembly with 3 water lines through it just in front of the PS/AC pumps. One big and one small line is rubber hose. One line, going back along the engine is an aluminum hardline. It snakes past the dipstick and up the firewall where it turns into a rubber hose and goes into the firewall to the heater core. That line will present a challenge when installing your Manifold and getting your DP to clear it.

Begi sells a kit to relocate that line and run it along the fender side instead of along the engine. It's on this page about halfway down: http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages...ata_parts.html called the water bypass system. I went another route and you can read about it here: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4455 The last post on page 7 and the first post on page 8... cheap and easy with a $1 part from a junkyard.
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