boostinsteve

When I did not have the WI, I was running 12 degrees, and then pulling 6 degrees, that is pretty much about the limit for detonation without cooler intake temps.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Oh, i have an intercooler! I was just making sure im safe, really, really dont want to **** anything up!

Thanks for ALL the tips!, so for that water line i have to buy a part and do it that way? Or is there any way i can make it work with the stock peice.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Alright, after reading ALOT more on this forum i have a few more quick questions.

After installing the kit, intercooler, bipes, vortech fmu, etc- how do i make sure i have a good air/fuel ratio? I wont have a gauge, what do you reccomend? I wont be able to get in on a dyno at all, none in this small town im almost sure...

What do you guys reccomend?

Thanks again for ALL of the help, you guys are ******* awesome.

-Nate.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

go to a dyno or just drive it with a low boost aplication 6-8psi as long as your stuff is installed correctly then you should be fine. What do you mean water line the greddy turbo is not water cooled, even so you can run any turbo with jus the oil line no problem.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you hope you did your math correctly. we can help you out.

use this to find a dyno in your area:
http://www.dynojet.com/dyno_centers/...ive/index.aspx

I always recommend getting on one after the installation.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

WOW, quick responses! great, great!

Ill only be running around 7 psi for a while until i get a new clutch, and once i get a new clutch installed i was going to go for new injectors/fuel pump, then go in search of a dyno, and there appears to be one in santafe, just 40 mins away! THANKS for that link!

So, what do you guys think about running 7 psi, without putting it on a dyno. Ill be just running stock injectors, and the FMU that comes with the greddy kit.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

just keep an ear out for detonation and take it slow until you get the hang of it and no problems should arise if they do pull timming or boost until the isues resole themselves and you will be safe until the dyno.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

A DYNAMOMETER is simply the mechanical device that measures the power your car is making... however, most DYNO's are computer controlled and have several other sensors that run in conjunction with the large drum the wheels are attached to that monitors power.

You can find dyno's that incorporate RPM, EGT, MAP, and a host of other feeds. The preferred device that measures A/F ratios is a Wideband Oxygen Sensor. The best way to measure is to plug the sensor into a bung on your exhaust up near the manifold (but not too close)... or a "sniffer" sensor that feeds a few feet up the tailpipe (less accurate by a little and harder if you've got a muffler very near the tip).

You can however purchase you own WBo2 system for fairly cheap. The two more popular ones around here are an AEM system that comes with a complete WB controller and nifty little gauge (check WideOpenThrottle's group buys in the classifieds) for $260. Also research http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php. You can find those plus a gauge through ebay for the same price.
That will give you a permanent WBo2 reading in the cockpit, allowing immediate monitoring of any little change you make in the system without going to the dyno. The only reason to go to the dyno after installing a WB is to see what power you're making... but as a general rule, you'll make the most power when you're stoich, which is what the WB tells you.

Most DYNO's will charge about $75-$100 for the first hour, flat fee, and then pro-rate you at a slightly lower rate for follow-on time. With a setup as simple as most of us have here, an hour is PLENTY of time. For you, without an AFPR there's not much tuning to be done. You can swap out discs in the Greddy FPR, but it's not cost-effective to do this on the dyno (once the clock starts, you're paying). A couple runs should do you, maybe with the bigger injectors you can increase/decrease tension on the MAF to get a better A/F at idle... but a few runs should take you about 5 minutes. An O2 clamp can be dialed in better on a DYNO by changing the voltage.

My advice, skip the dyno. Your A/F with the setup you've got will be fine. Until you decide to get a little more aggressive with your setup, or invest in an AFPR (or a few different Greddy discs), it's a waste of money when an AEM is just $260... save an extra month or two and get the real deal. Then just keep on track of when your local car club is having a DYNO day and go get yourself three pulls for $50 just to see what kind of power you're making.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

The next item on your shopping list needs to be 1.8 injectors. With the bigger injectors, you should be safe at 7psi with the vortech and oem pump. I'd run the oem plugs, but close the gap down some.

When I dyno'd, I used the entire hour plus a little extra (they were kind enough to only bill for 1 hour ). I had about 20 pulls, but we were being real ----. It's a lot of fun. If you go, don't forget to snap some pics of your car strapped down on the drum.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Wow 20 pulls

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Yeah I paid for an hour and I got my money's worth... Plus I "tuned" with 3rd gear pulls, and if I was happy, followed up with a 4th gear pull.

I was also trying to be cautious with backing out the needle valve on the begi.