A/F 13.2:1 at WOT
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,310
Total Cats: 1,236
From: San Diego
Below 4k my a/f is all wack since I am just running the vortech w/ no bandaids so the stock ecu is messing stuff up, but above 4k I'm in the 13's for a/f. Is that ok?
Stupid question here: if 13.x:1 is not that great, would the same boost level at a good a/f like 12:1 produce more power? Because at 4 psi the car feels like it gets a decent kick in the pants more power than stock. When I turn it up higher, the car realllly doesn't seem to be any faster. I've had it up to about 7 or so... could this just be due to my a/f getting leaner as I add boost and therefore not really adding any more power?
-Ryan
Stupid question here: if 13.x:1 is not that great, would the same boost level at a good a/f like 12:1 produce more power? Because at 4 psi the car feels like it gets a decent kick in the pants more power than stock. When I turn it up higher, the car realllly doesn't seem to be any faster. I've had it up to about 7 or so... could this just be due to my a/f getting leaner as I add boost and therefore not really adding any more power?
-Ryan
Remind me to slap the **** out of you at the next meet. Raising the boost without increasing fuel flow? Come on, Ryan.
No, 13.2:1 is not OK. 13.2:1 is piston-melting territory. You need to be under 12.5, preferrably under 12.0:1. My car is tuned for about 11.4:1.
No, 13.2:1 is not OK. 13.2:1 is piston-melting territory. You need to be under 12.5, preferrably under 12.0:1. My car is tuned for about 11.4:1.
What boost level are you at when your in the 13 af ratio? 4lbs, or 7lbs? if at 4lbs, shouldnt the fmu not cause you to go that lean at 4lbs? There seems to be guys running fine with the fmu at 5lbs.
If it doesn't knock, it won't break.
11.4 is ridiculously rich. i'd be really surprised if there are more than a couple spots in your table where you would actually make more power with that much fuel, compared to something a little lighter up in the mid 12's...
sorry to come off like an ***, but it's early and this is a huge pet peeve of mine.
and, savington, i know you had knocking issues before, but it looks like you found the cause of that with your (intake?) cam being off by a decent amount. you probably don't need NEARLY as much fuel to keep from det'ing, at this point...
Add an O2 clamp, and change your disc. (you don't want to be lean under 4K either). You "should" be able to run 6psi of boost w/ the stock FP (80psi). Or look for an BEGI AFPR.
Are you monitoring Fuel pressure as well?
Are you monitoring Fuel pressure as well?
11.4 to 1 is way rich. I have my car between 12 to 1 and 12.7 to 1. 13.2 is a little lean, but as long as there is no knock or your EGTs arnt like 2500 degress, your ok lol.
lmao, haha "laser".
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this was my point. unless you're on a dyno, you have no idea. that's why, generally, shoot for mid 12's and add if you're knocking is sound advice. get the **** on a dyno and have a way to detect faint knock, if you really want to know what's going on.
if timing is aggressive he will
aggressive timing + lots of fuel = powah
aggressive timing + lots of fuel = powah
My timing map is not horridly aggressive, a few degrees beyond Jerry's basemap, but that's on pisswater (CA 91)
Andrew, it absolutely won't make max power at stoich. Tip into boost at 14.7:1, then retune to tip in at 13:1 then let me know which feels more powerful.








