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Old 09-16-2006, 09:27 PM   #1
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Default Few questions after a week of driving

I have my car running really well now. It has stock greddy kit with JRSC cross over. Stock injectors and computer. I removed my emanage to check for incorrect wiring.
However I did notice a few small problems I have been having. I have the stock PCV valve, I get oil entering the intake. I assume switching to the 323 GTX one will fix it. The thing about it is when I had my supercharger on, I had no oil in the intake. Anyone know how that could be? Boost on the s/c was 8, boost with the greddy is 5.
My other question is about a few leaks. I have a small oil trail down the passenger side top of my transmission. I'm assuming this is a CAS leak, but I'm not 100% sure. The drain hole in the bottom of my transmission at the bottom of the bell housing is leaking what seems to be oil. Is this normal? It doesnt drip, but its there.
I'm also having more HLA tick then before. My oil pressure at idle is around 20. Should I maybe switch to a different oil? I run mobil 1 10W30. Just wondering if the extra heat is thinning the oil.
My last question is about the water pump. I have a strange noise coming from the general area in the front of the engine. I plan to change everything out this winter while its in storage. Will the greddy kit put any extra stress on the pump due to the heat? Car only has 55,240 miles. I plan to do my 60,000 mile tune up this winter.
Thanks for the help! I'm so glad its running, and so well. This winter I will be making lots of upgrades to support the power. I think I wore out the old parts with the s/c, I hate that thing!
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:10 PM   #2
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i would get some thicker oil in there. Either mobil 1 seems to have gone down a notch in the last year or so or the new Q and Royal purpel are just that good the Q was fine for me on NA and about 1000 miles of boosting but the mobil barely went 1000 miles NA and 400-500miles on boost with mobil full synthetic even at 20-50 the Royal purple 20-50 is about the best i have found though it actualy lasts 3000+ miles. the tranny might need some teflon on the bolt or a crush washer. The waterpump could be going out better safe than sorry in my opinion though so just keep an eye on it and replace it with a new one along with the timming belt. The pcv could be wore out i just disconected mine from the intake and vented the other side to atmosphere but don't let bripad here that. I though of using the JR crossover how hard was it to adapt it? great idea
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Old 09-17-2006, 01:10 AM   #3
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The JRSC cross over was sorta my own idea, I figured it would work but it was confirmed when I saw someone else using it on this forum. I welded on the bung for my BOV and a vacuum line for the CIAS i think it is? and then put it on. It binds a little near the turbo, but nothing signifigant.
As for the drain hole I wasn't descriptive enough. Its the small open hole on the bottom of the bell housing. Not the actual drain plug hole. As for the PCV I shook it and it rattled. It could be origional so I will replace it. If the noise I'm hearing is the water pump, it doesn't sound like its going to blow up any time soon. Just a faint sort of grinding? Dont know how to describe it. But over winter I will be replacing the water pump and timing belt, belt guides, exhaust manifold gasket, spark plugs, clutch, flywheel and PCV. I will also try to source and install an intercooler, and a stronger rear end. I'm actually looking forward to winter so I can do all of the maintenance. So one vote for 20W50? Keep in mind I dont drive the car in winter, so I'm only concerned with the summer weight. Thanks guys.
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Old 09-17-2006, 02:23 AM   #4
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i would get some thicker oil in there. Either mobil 1 seems to have gone down a notch in the last year or so or the new Q and Royal purpel are just that good the Q was fine for me on NA and about 1000 miles of boosting but the mobil barely went 1000 miles NA and 400-500miles on boost with mobil full synthetic even at 20-50 the Royal purple 20-50 is about the best i have found though it actualy lasts 3000+ miles. the tranny might need some teflon on the bolt or a crush washer. The waterpump could be going out better safe than sorry in my opinion though so just keep an eye on it and replace it with a new one along with the timming belt. The pcv could be wore out i just disconected mine from the intake and vented the other side to atmosphere but don't let bripad here that. I though of using the JR crossover how hard was it to adapt it? great idea
woah woah so are you saying DONT use Mobil 1 10w-30 on a boosted miata? I thought other then like Royal Purple, Mobil 1 was ze way to go?
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Old 09-17-2006, 12:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
However I did notice a few small problems I have been having. I have the stock PCV valve, I get oil entering the intake. I assume switching to the 323 GTX one will fix it. The thing about it is when I had my supercharger on, I had no oil in the intake. Anyone know how that could be? Boost on the s/c was 8, boost with the greddy is 5.
Only a few places oil can enter the intake: crankcase breather line or turbo

Make sure no boost is entering the crankcase. This can allow for oil to enter the intake through the crankcse breather line. A failed PCV valve can cause this.

How is the crankcase breather routed?

If the compressor seals on the turbo are bad, oil can enter the intake path through the turbo itself. OR if you're drainage is not up-to-par then oil can backup into the turbo and blow past the seals. OR too much oil into the turbo can do the same thing.

The GReddy uses a -3AN line that seems to be ok for enough supply, so I wouldn't assume it would be the feed. So look at your drainage, if you are using the GReddy still return, then that could be the problem maker. And double check your breather line, it needs to be under vacuum so your oil drains better. Make sure no boost can enter, so it needs to be plumbed just after the intake.



Quote:
I'm also having more HLA tick then before. My oil pressure at idle is around 20. Should I maybe switch to a different oil? I run mobil 1 10W30. Just wondering if the extra heat is thinning the oil.
Don't confuse HLA tick with a leaky manifold/exhaust. It will sound very similar.

Quote:
My last question is about the water pump. I have a strange noise coming from the general area in the front of the engine. I plan to change everything out this winter while its in storage. Will the greddy kit put any extra stress on the pump due to the heat? Car only has 55,240 miles. I plan to do my 60,000 mile tune up this winter.
Belts can sound like a bunch of marbles in the engine. Spray some conditioner all over the inside of the belts to see if that doesn't fix it. If you don't have belt conditioner, use Armor All, tire shine or something similar.

Last edited by Braineack; 09-17-2006 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:16 PM   #6
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I'm running that new Q horsepower oil, I don't get HLA chatter even if the car sits for a few weeks where before if I let it sit for a few days it would clatter like a drawer of silverware dropped down the stairs.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:33 PM   #7
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Mobil used to be the best i ran it in everything but now i find Q advanced engine full synthetic is better and RP is the best. your results could vary but i would try some Q they run for the same price as mobil if you like it great if not continue like before or get RP.
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:55 PM   #8
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I use Castrol HD. Ive been using it for about 3 oil changes now no probs. i had alot of blow by. catch can and the oil fixed it. oh and my cat was smoking alot so i hollowed it out.

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Old 09-18-2006, 02:04 AM   #9
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The oil is coming out of the crank case breather. The kit had a bung for the line installed already. It is on the big U shaped line which connects the turbo to AFM. So it only sees vacuum. It is for sure not the turbo leaking oil because there isnt any oil actually on/in the turbo. Its just a spray from the bung on the breather line. Oil drain is working fine, of which I am SO happy. Its -10AN line. As for the HLA tick, I know for sure its them. I do have a leaky exhaust manifold gasket, it lets out a puffing sound. But at idle I can put my head to the cam cover and hear the HLA's and exhaust leak. Very simmilar but it I can tell them apart. I think I will talk to my speed shop and see what oil weights the turbo guys run. I dont think running a thicker weight as a test will hurt anything. I'm due for my 100 mile flush anyway. And as an awsome side note, I installed my new top today. I have a back window again!!!
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Old 09-18-2006, 02:23 AM   #10
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Bump for the top. Just keep at it to find the problem. little things like this really suck.
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Old 09-18-2006, 10:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miataspeed1point6 View Post
The oil is coming out of the crank case breather. The kit had a bung for the line installed already. It is on the big U shaped line which connects the turbo to AFM. So it only sees vacuum.
Check your PCV valve then. And make sure no boost is entering the crankcase.
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Old 09-18-2006, 06:26 PM   #12
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How would I check if boost was entering the crankcase? My dipstick stays in place and no oil is being blown up it. I will replace the PCV tommorow and check if its still leaking.
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Old 09-18-2006, 06:32 PM   #13
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100 mile flush?
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Old 09-18-2006, 06:37 PM   #14
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I drilled my oil pan 100 miles ago. As a precaution I ran a new filter for 30 miles and changed it. Then I ran this for 70 miles. Now 100 miles after drilling the pan I'm going to drain the oil and change the filter to make sure there is no metal shavings at all in there.
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Old 09-18-2006, 06:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miataspeed1point6 View Post
I drilled my oil pan 100 miles ago. As a precaution I ran a new filter for 30 miles and changed it. Then I ran this for 70 miles. Now 100 miles after drilling the pan I'm going to drain the oil and change the filter to make sure there is no metal shavings at all in there.
Ah sounds like a good plan cept dirty spendy unless you aint runnin Snyth
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