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Old 08-19-2006, 11:43 PM   #1
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Well I went out for a little spirited driving tonight. On my way home (10 min drive) from dinner I didnt feel like I was beating on the car. I ocasionally got into full boost but nothing to major. My exhaust part of the turbo was bright red, I mean I have seen some high horsepower cars change the headers to bright red, but my turbo manifold was not glowing and the turbo was. I am sure this is beacuse of my 10 min. spirited driving but I just thought I would tell my story. When I pulled in my garage I poped the hood and my radiator overflow was gurgling and I was like...wow I didnt know it was getting that hot. BUT my thermostat is broken and I havent replaced it with one of the $7 from NAPA yet and I think that might help me out since my fans were not running maybee. Anyways I am seriously considering an NACA duct and some TSI's to keep my car cool. and I also need to order the IC from stripes soon.
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Old 08-20-2006, 12:11 AM   #2
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If your cars hot like that you should let it run and cool down for a bit before just shutting it off.
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Old 08-20-2006, 12:25 AM   #3
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I always let my car idle for abour 30 seconds before I shut it off
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Old 08-20-2006, 12:43 AM   #4
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I would probably want more than that especially when your only oil cooled.
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Old 08-20-2006, 05:19 PM   #5
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let it idle for 2-3 minutes

also something that helps a little, when you know you're approaching your destination....try to keep the romping to a minimum, keep it in the low rpm, even though its hard in such a fun car...hehe...for me at least with my lead foot.
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Old 08-20-2006, 07:13 PM   #6
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A few comments. Glowing at the rear of the turbo is normal even after a rather mild boosted run. Does not mean you are overheating, but a good idea to at least make an extra slow trip around the block prior to parking or extend your cooling down time.

Bubbling in the overflow reservoir may still not indicate you are over heating, could just mean you have air in the radiator. It is just being pushed out into the reservoir causing it to bubble. Fix could be as simple as a new radiator cap.

Not sure why you believe the thermostat is broken. You mentioned fans as in plural so suggest you have AC installed.

Maybe with a few questions we can narrow the problem down unless you are positive the thermostat is broken.

1. Do both fans turn on with the AC on and engine running?
2. Any loss of coolant checking on a daily basis?
3. With engine running or ignition ON does strapping the TFA and GND in the diagnostic connector box cause the main cooling fan to turn on?
4. Does the inside coolant gauge show signs of overheating?

Comment. Those NACA ducts or TSIs will not alleviate overheating problems. They can be more of a cause for overheating problems.
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Old 08-20-2006, 08:44 PM   #7
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i know the thermostat is broken because it is snaped into two pieces. The part that the wire goes in broke off from the part that screws in.

one fan turns on with the a/c the other one turns on when the car gets hot. No loss of coolant, but before I got the turbo I was in a wreck and broke the radiator so i got a new koyo rad, (not all aluminum but the one for an automatic so I can route my oil to the trans cooler it has built in to keep my oil cooler. If I ground the wire that went to the thermostat it does turn the fan on. The inside guages didnt but i believe that is beacuse the thermostat is broken. Like I said I think the problem is that the fan was not on at all and I was driving hard.

why might the TSA's and NACA ducts cause overheating problems?

Oh yeah, I also dont have tyhe underbelly pan on, I lost the screws if you see my post on M.net and I need to find the right size screw to put the plastic "pan" on.
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Old 08-20-2006, 09:15 PM   #8
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Any sheet metal screw or small bolt+nut will work. the new sensor is only 13 bucks i snapped one myself they have themat yuor local parts store for sure.
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Old 08-20-2006, 09:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokeEnthusiast View Post
Oh yeah, I also dont have tyhe underbelly pan on, I lost the screws if you see my post on M.net and I need to find the right size screw to put the plastic "pan" on.
I've got the screws from my belly pan(which I discarded). If you want to send me your address, I'll drop them in the mail to you.
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Old 08-20-2006, 10:04 PM   #10
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Here is a video of my turbo manifold glowing bright red on the dyno:

http://www.lightweightmiata.com/dyno/dyno.htm (first link before all the pictures)

I always thought it was because I boosted so high and had a very lean condition. I have not been on the dyno (i.e. have not seen if it is still glowing) since tuning the car but I would hope that adding fuel has corrected this extremely hot condition.
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Old 08-20-2006, 10:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
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i know the thermostat is broken because it is snaped into two pieces. The part that the wire goes in broke off from the part that screws in.

That is not the thermostat. That is the fan switch for the main cooling fan. Can pick one up at AutoZone for about $24. Part number is TU 146. Can also get the same unit from a Mazda dealership for about $60, or from a Kia Dealership for about $40. Your choice on where to buy it. When the coolant reaches 207 F it grounds the switch and triggers the fan relay.

one fan turns on with the a/c the other one turns on when the car gets hot.

Something wrong here. They should both come on with the AC. The AC uses a joint connection to trigger the main fan relay to ground turning on the main fan. This is a second trigger circuit to the main fan relay. Please make certain of that or would take us to an additional problem of a bad fan relay or associated wiring.

... i got a new koyo rad, (not all aluminum but the one for an automatic so I can route my oil to the trans cooler it has built in to keep my oil cooler.

Bad idea, bad idea, bad idea. Was not built to take the high oil pressure, too restrictive feeding thru the coil, and you don't need one unless running a lot of road courses and hill climb events.

If I ground the wire that went to the thermostat it does turn the fan on.

Then at least one of your fan relay triggers is good and tripping the relay.

The inside guages didnt but i believe that is beacuse the thermostat is broken. Like I said I think the problem is that the fan was not on at all and I was driving hard.

Do not believe your diagnosis is correct and you may have been overheating only in slow moving, stop N go traffic or during idle.

why might the TSA's and NACA ducts cause overheating problems? ...
They change the underhood air pressures and airflow from how the engineers designed it. Can change the volume of air from flowing thru the radiator where it is needed for cooling.

If you need to drive around until you find a new fan switch suggest just taking that switch cap and grounding it to any part of the engine or block. I used the center bolt on front of the cam cover. I drove like that for two years. It makes the fan run anytime the engine is running. Just make sure you don't bugger the cap or break off the wire right at the cap. That wiring cap is nearly impossible to replace.
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Old 08-20-2006, 11:10 PM   #12
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olderguy - pm sent, thanks

pop vii- thanks for the info. mine actually broke the top grey part from the part that screws in, i think this is what you are talking about that is nearly impossible to replace. I think I will also just ground it for now. I dont like the look of the NACA duct I just thought it would help, but thanks for clarification on that also.
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Old 08-21-2006, 02:09 AM   #13
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you can get a vented hood. My temp guage dosent even go half way any more, it goes just shy of the coolant emblem thingy. (so if you were looking at a clock, like 10oclock...
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Old 08-21-2006, 11:48 AM   #14
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I really like the scoot style hood for the RX-7. I'm not to hot on the extractor hoods that most people with a vented hood on a miata have. What kind of hood do you have? any pics?
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