I still don't get how 200 miles on the FPR is going to blow my engine with the timing retarded and 91 octane. It'll likely be pig rich yes.

 

Then you don't know enough to be boosting your engine.

 

So how are there people driving around on the Greddy kits with 20k miles then?

 

Pig rich? How rich?

 

They have MS and wideband sensors.

 

Proper fuel management.

 

I've rode in two Miatas with the Greddy kit, one with the base kit and one with an intercooler and both had been running for over a year. I'm guessing nobody believes noobs here when they say they are only running it a few weeks and at low boost.

Both had the Greddy downpipe so no wideband and just the vortech.

 

Be realistic. It's like having a smoking hot naked woman in front of you, ready to jump on your junk and swearing that you'll only touch one boob.

"Oh, I'll just have ONE beer."

Bullshit.

No one "takes it easy" on a freshly boosted Miata. You can't resist pushing it "just a little bit" and everything is fine until suddenly it's not.

You're not the first, won't be the last. Learn from others mistakes. Don't skimp on parts, don't run on band-aids.

 

I should probably explain why I am even waiting for the right parts. Artech is booked for 2 months, and Turbo Tony is sourcing metal to make me his downpipe so not much I can do there but wait. It is my second car that only comes out for fun so I literally have no reason to go full retard. I have a full lift on my farm that I have access to so that is an ideal place to install an intercooler and exhaust when things arrive in a few weeks. I'll just tie the wastegate open if everyone is that concerned.

 

The best thing you can possibly do right now is to get a Megasquirt, and learn how to use it while naturally aspirated and unlikely to hurt anything. Then, not only will you have the proper management for the engine, you will actually know how to use it increasing the fun factor of the initial tuning.

 

Last time I checked a MS isn't on back order. **** that is one part you can even build your damn self. That is the point here: get a MS first. Everything else is whatever. The greddy kit can be decent when fueled by a properly tuned MS. If you thought your buddies with the greddy kit on aidz was nice, try driving one with a MS... ask me how I know.

 

Still doesn't mean **** if I don't have a downpipe with a wideband bung to hook a wideband up to it.

 

I'm not disagreeing with anyone here, just trying to do things as I can. If literally 4.5-5 psi on the vortech is gonna blow it up then I guess I'll buy the megasquirt and cross my fingers that Tony hurries up.

 

News flash! You can run the ms while NA! Did you even read what I wrote? If you're in such a hurry to drive the car, get a ms, put the stock header and exhaust on, and learn to tune before you can do real damage!

 

Funny thing about this forum. Our engines cost $400 bucks but yet people seem more scared than ever. Anyways I got enough information from the few that posted something actually useful.

 

That's not really funny. We don't want to waste $400 + time. Plus there is absolutely no need to chance it these days.

By all means do what you want. But don't get pissy when we disagree with how you are doing things.

 

Yes 4.5-5 psi will blow your **** up with **** tunning. You can just as easily put a hole in the piston on an NA motor running **** tune so... Low boost doesnt mean **** dude..

 

That Vortech FPR is horrid.

These guys are telling you the truth. Don't chance it.

I ran that stupid Vortech for a while and the thing was running lean and pinging on the stock boost levels. I had to swap 1.8 injectors into the car to actually get it to a level that was somewhat acceptable, but even that was dumb. Now I'm running the BEGI afpr and a wideband, but even that is pretty **** poor. I should have just gone MS a while ago. I've finally got one coming in a few days.

I've had numerous people I know blow up their cars with that Vortech in place. It's crap.

 

actually... for $400, you can buy the engine, AND Manley rods for it. thats a high estimate... but even with the engine being cheap, most of us dont want to waste $100-$400 on replacing an engine that didnt NEED to be replaced if things were done properly... then that $100-$400 that was saved, could be put into the RELIABLE setup, making it that much more WIN.
Not to mention.... who wants to spend the TIME fixing crap, rather than driving the car?
it just makes for more work and money... but im not saying anything that hasnt been said in this thread already

 

there's no real difference between a vortech and BEGI FMU.

both CAN get the job done if you're not moran.