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Old 08-01-2013, 04:12 PM   #41
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Yeah but most of the people that run them run them for the wrong reasons.
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:48 PM   #42
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If you have a wideband and a set of disks for the thing you could make it work. Or you could not buy aids and buy something decent.
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:49 PM   #43
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Get ur aids down the street, not from the auto parts store.
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:03 PM   #44
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I ran my old 1.6 greddy with a vortec FMU for a long time. Just on the wastegate, so 4-5psi. I put a wbo2 on the thing when I was about to go MS and nearly **** myself when i saw 14's afr's in boost. Band-aids suck.

Good thing i live at 7200 ft elevation, so 4psi barely puts me over 100kpa and my timing was mega retarded by the POS bipes I was running.

God damn just thinking about that setup makes me sick. Seriously dude, megasquirt NOW. You can get a ms1 for like 300 bucks used on this forum.
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:40 PM   #45
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How old is the Greddy kit now? 14, 15 years old at least? I'm sure the idea of getting a tuneable PnP replacement ECU for the miata back then was laughable, unless you had $10k. Luckily it's 2013 and you can buy a MS2 kit for the same price as an FMU + Bipes. It's like going hunting with a musket instead of a modern rifle because "it's good enough, besides people have been using them for a long time!"

If $400 for a new engine is a drop in the bucket for you, then start building yourself an MS or buy one from any of the 3 vendors on this site that sell them complete.
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:55 PM   #46
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Darn!! Late to the party!

1. Locknuts. You should be using the exhaust nuts from your local auto parts store. These nuts are similar to the all-metal "stove" locknuts but have a flange. These nuts are slightly "squashed" which is how they provide turning resistance (if you look at the opening, you'll see that it is not perfectly round). Never use nylon lock nuts in an engine bay where they can be exposed to heat. They melt. And, yes, locknuts are a pain to get on, so don't use a bolt that is longer than needed, put a stubby wrench on the top and turn the nut with a deep socket and lots of extensions from the bottom. It's actually pretty easy once you get the technique down.

2. MS. HIGHLY recommended. You don't need to wait for a downpipe. With MS, you can just remove your NBO2 and install the WBO2 in its place. If you setup the MS for WBO2, it won't look for a NBO2 at all. Easy-peasy.

3. Turbo-Tony. He's still around? Seriously? What is he charging for a downpipe and do you have any contact info? Maybe a PM in case posting breaks forum rules (not sure). I need a downpipe and am shopping around.

4. Don't be too defensive. Everyone here is trying to help.
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Old 08-02-2013, 04:13 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
there's no real difference between a vortech and BEGI FMU.

both CAN get the job done if you're not moran.
I think I'm not a moran, but I might be wrong.
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