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Greddy Type S BOV Problems

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Old 06-16-2007, 08:50 AM
  #21  
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whao lots of bling maybe your engine is unhappy with it not being chromed and refusing to run My gues is it is a leak with your connection hose.
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Old 06-16-2007, 08:53 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by tabs604
However, as soon as the revs drop the idle drops and it stalls.

That would be the AFM's fault. when you lift off the throttle, the air the AFM measured nicely exits the intake but the ECU provides fuel for it anyway. Car goes extra-rich and drowns itself.

i'm sure someone else will chime in saying they run a type S and AFM
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Old 06-16-2007, 09:01 AM
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Yeah i forgot about that IF the AFM is still seeing the flow you need to recirc that **** for real. VTA+AFM is not the best combo
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Old 06-16-2007, 11:46 AM
  #24  
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Damn...Not happy.

If i Recirc..it wont make that lovely sound...Right.

Forgot that Braineack dont use a AFM!

I have been doing some research on the net and it seems to be a common problem with Eclipse and Mazdaspeed Protege Guys.

I think it just takes some finer adjustment with the adjustment screw..

I took it out for a drive and got a real good video to doemonstrate the devine sound that BOV makes. The drive is not as smooth than it was with my HKS and I feel the car is runnign rich as it is popping.

Anyway the vid now!

My mate who has a RX7 took some footage earlier and now wants the same BOV. His car is the white rex parked on the right on the third pass in the clip.

Hope you like it cus I do. I keep annoying my girlfriend with the greddy bov sound.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPOEjAnQIlI
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Old 06-16-2007, 12:03 PM
  #25  
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sounds good. I couldn't get my BOV to not leak at idle with my AFM, so I was recirculated. I ran a 3/4" brass check vavle on it for a while, but just decided to recirc. it.

you could try this....not sure it the RS and Type-S have the same threading, they should:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS
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Old 06-16-2007, 12:26 PM
  #26  
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Very F&TF man i like it. i want mine to be alot basier though still great job.
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Old 06-16-2007, 12:43 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Braineack
sounds good. I couldn't get my BOV to not leak at idle with my AFM, so I was recirculated. I ran a 3/4" brass check vavle on it for a while, but just decided to recirc. it.

you could try this....not sure it the RS and Type-S have the same threading, they should:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS
Does sound good. Cant get enough of it.

I will look into the anti-stall module but the greddy type s is rare in the uk so dont know what hope I have of getting it

Whats a check valve and what does it look like? Where does it go?

Also how do i recirc it? If I recirc it will it sound the same?

Sorry about all the questions. I will get there in the end.
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Old 06-17-2007, 02:12 PM
  #28  
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Unfortunately its causing the car to run crap. The air/fuel guage has gone crazee and I have VERY BAD gas mileage.

I dont want to remove it cus of the lovely soun it makes. However I have removed it for now and put back my HKS SSQV. Runs fine now. Now idle dip. No Staling. Nowt.

There is no use me recircing this bov. If I could find out what a check valve is and what it does ...that would be great?
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Old 06-17-2007, 03:23 PM
  #29  
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The check valve goes on the BOV outlet. It keeps it from leaking at idle and at normal driving. That way all the air that is metered by the AFM gets to the motor so you don't run so rich. That ATP item looks nice, real clean install, it opens that rubber flap when under boost but stays closed under vac.
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:55 PM
  #30  
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some valves do a better job of sealing closed at idle than other....the HKS is one of them, the Type-S is not.

while it's idling, you can see the valve....take a look in at it and see what it's doing.

try it without the bottom port connected and see how it reacts then.

tighten the valve upa bit and see as well.

you shoudl be able to get it to a spot where the valve is sealed at idle. I figured it was just easier to recirculate....and for me, it was just as loud.
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Old 06-18-2007, 03:49 AM
  #31  
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My HKS is pretty much perfect. On the car now. No stalling problems or richness. But am BORED of the sound it makes.

Upon doing loads of research on the net. Its seems like the leaking at idle is a common problem with the greddy type s. People just end up recricing them or live with running rich and stalling.

I will try some testing later in the week by tightening it amd testing.

I already have an interested buyer in it too!

Also, I was thinking of taking out one of the springs. When I took it apart to clean it there were 2 springs inside. If I take one out would it not seal shut better on vacum?
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:44 AM
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I believe I removed the soft spring.
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:02 AM
  #33  
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Ahh cheers. I will give this a go.

I will also take it apart tonite again and check the diaphram thorouhly for tears or hoels as resarch has shown this is a common cause of leakage at idle.

Also the greddy vendors in the UK sell these for like £60.oo. Now to me they would not be selling them is the membrrane splits and as the bov is used this is a possibility.
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Old 06-21-2007, 03:51 PM
  #34  
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Found somthing on the net on the 'single spring mod'.

http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=1&tech_id=7

May be of help to others with stalling problems.
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Old 06-21-2007, 03:56 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by tabs604
Found somthing on the net on the 'single spring mod'...
I did exactly that (removed the center spring) with the cheap knockoff Greddy unit that I recently replaced by ailing FM BOV with. It causes the valve to be slightly open at idle, so I lathed a small adaptor to replace the whistle-horn that it came with and stuck a filter on it. Won't work for the AFM crowd, but in this condition the valve is very smooth and responsive, no flutter, no chirp, just a nice quiet *psssshhhhh* when I shift.
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