I need to turn disconnect the fuel pump so i can purge as much fuel out of the lines and fuel rail. I found a link to one of pops pages. It said to disconnect the yellow connector up under the dash. Did that, engine still ran like normal, never stalled. Any other ways to get this done?

here's a pic of what's going in, love shiny new parts.

 

Phil,

You must have pulled the wrong yellow connector as there are two big ones in the same general area. I've used popvii's directions about five times now for different reasons and the car always stalls and no gas all over the place. Look to the drivers side and back for a yellow connector about 3cm by 1cm.

Tom

 

you could just disconect it at the fp itself. you shouldnt spill to much fuel anyway i would just let of the pressure and get to work.

 

That clunky yellow plug near the steering column is the COR. Should have 5 wires. The Blu/Red is the fuel pump power and it runs back inside the rear bulkhead via a channel under the driver's sill plate ... in case some wire checking is needed.

The pump will not run with it unplugged .. unless .. several years back I posted a method to bypass the COR as a temporary road side fix by shunting the Red/Blu to the Wht/Red. In that case the fuel pump will run anytime the ignition key is in ON, START, or RUN position. In that instance the COR was bad and would not trigger the relay by shunting the FP/GND pins.

Pulling the COR does not purge the fuel rail but merely depressurizes it. To empty the lines of fuel, need to remove the Fuel In line. Probably best to remove either line at the fuel filter and let it drain rather than one in the engine compartment.

 

thanks guys , must have pulled the wrong one, i'll get under there tomorrow and look around, kills my back though.

 

I'm not sure that "Slimer green" counts as shiney, but the injectors are pretty!

Putting the gauge on the front of the rail is an awesome idea!!! I'd been trying to think of an easy way to do it... problem solved. There are those two coolant lines running to the intake manifold but they can be routed out of the way so you can read it... Hmmm more to ponder.
The fitting for the attachment for the 2nd feed to the rail in the pic is just a slip fitting. I thought it was recommended to use a barb and hose clamp to be safe. Is a smooth slip fitting like that OK?

As for an answer to your question.
Take an old shop cloth and wrap it around the hard metal feed line where it meets the rubbber feed line on the fender, then carefully work the hose off. Shouldn't be more than a shotglass full in there.

 

i think it has a barb it better i wouldnt run any kind of pressure on a fitting without a barb on it or something you think blowing a ic pipe coupler is bad a fuel line is worse esp if you are into some high pressure at the time

 

meh. I've blown the line from the AFPR to the fuel rail before, wasn't so bad aside from the smell of gas.

 

it's got some ridges in on the fitting. I didn't make it so i figured it would be fine. you guys think i make a small jb weld bead around the end or something?

 

no, I think that will be problematic under 80 PSI or w/e you're running however.

 

if it has some ridges on it, it should be ok but i wouldn't run 70+psi fp on it if it where me, i would try to figure out another fitting or just test it to make sure it holds up to the pressure by turning on the pump and fully restricting hte return. If it holds up on this ok you should be good to go for whatever ya like

 

Couple of odd questions. If that is a mechanical gauge stuck at the front of the fuel rail, what good will it do other than show and tell when hood is opened? If it is an electronic sendor then all well and good since can mount the gauge itself inside the cockpit where it will tell you something.

If planning to fabricate a duel feed rail, would it have made more sense to mount the second feed between the 2d and 3d injectors?

 

i'm not really sure i didn't make the rail. I realize it's not useful under the hood while driving but can be used for diagnosis or for setting base pressures or testing max pressure. It might not be the most ideal setup but it's gotta give more even pressures than stock

 

Plus the gauge under the hood looks really cool!
If you're still planning on using that fitting, put a breaker bar on the hose clamp and really get it tight... but a barbed fitting would probably be better.

On a side note, I just bought a stock fuel rail off m.net so I can do my DFFR and then use the stocker that came off as a spare.

 

JB Weld it, pressurize it and see if it leaks.

The amount of force it takes to blow a fuel line off a fitting is up there, plus using screw clamps makes it nearly impossible. Corky can give you the calculation.