I do, but it's not installed yet.

I bought one of those $100 units from some dude on eBay which is about 20" x 6.5" x 2.5". I've got it mounted in the nose but I haven't run the plumbing for it yet. So at the moment I'm only doing about 6psi, and even at that I can get a ping every now and then if I really push it when it's hot.

I'm debating as to whether I should do this before or after I attempt to remove the AFM. My preference is to do it after, since I'm planning a VTA BOV, however I wonder if the I/C itself will signifigantly alter the AFM / MAP relationship.

I guess we'll find out.

 

quick Q... the Vortech that came with it if i wanna say turn my boost up to 9-10psi will i need to get a new 6:1 kit for it?

 

not necessarily. What else do you have for fueling?

 

I don't think you're actually allowed to complain about installing a Greddy turbo kit unless you've already worked on a VG30DETT in the 300ZX. That was my understanding, anyhow...

 

Maybe I'm missing something. When I had to get my manifold fixed I pulled the manifold and turbo as a unit leaving the DP in place. A wrench with a ratchet head is you friend on this one for sure!

 

I know exactly what you mean!

 

well i got some 1.8L Injectors, stock fuel pump, that vortech that came with it... btw do you know the part number for the circle to square adapter for the RU-5111 K&N I got from you cus the one they sold at Autozone was to big.

 

The stock pump is only going to give you so much pressure in boost before it can't flow anymore (80-90psi).

The higher the pressure in the line, the smaller the injector is required to perform. So at 90psi a 240cc injector can make 190BHP, where at 100psi a 225cc injector can do the same thing.

With that said, I ran my 1.8 injectors with the stock pump and the Vortech 12:1 FMU to about 6-7psi and made 170hp to the wheels, but I was completely maxed out in fuel (either duty cycle, or OEM FP limits).

 

ummm k so like uhhh more or less you are telling me with 1.8 injectors and a stock fuel pump dont go above 6-7psi till i can find me a 190HP fuel pump?

 

around those lines.

 

oqwentr now the freaking air intake thingy wont fit






am i retarded or just argh4236

 

Now you're learning why some lesser mortals just wimp out and buy a Begi kit. Because it fits correctly.

Seriously, though… Retarded or not, getting that intake on is a bitch. Remember, this kit was designed for a right-hand drive car.

If you haven’t already, remove the diagnostic box and the post it sits on. That cruise stuff might have to go too, I dunno, mine didn’t have it.

Now, see that brake line that exits the M/C straight up and is hitting the AFM? You gotta bend it. Seriously. It's sort of a twisting motion actually. Get some vise-grips, channel-locks, etc, and twist that sucker. You want the top part (where it's flat & horizontal) just about wrapped around the plastic reservoir.

Once that's done you'll be able to wedge the whole thing in there. The rubber couplers where the AFM goes to the U-pipe, and the pipe goes to the compressor outlet, are gonna have to flex for all they're worth. Ie: the joints aren't gonna be straight.

When it's all said & done, you'll have the new air filter assembly rubbing up against the brake lines and the underside of the hood, and the bottom of the AFM will be banging against the shock tower. That's just about how it's supposed to be. I built a bracket to sort of force the AFM to stay in a neutral location. Just a piece of 18ga steel.

 

i hope the people who made this kit burn in hell

*edit* i hope the people who made the damn instructions burn in hell more or less used this forum or just guessed on how crap went in the instructions are crap.

 

It seems bad now, but trust me on this. Relax, have a few beers, get the car running, and a week from now this'll seem like the best $1,300 you ever spent.

 

yeah ill prolly curse more at the IC kit

 

remove your cruise control?? I did and it helped

 

wow that is bull **** run the pipe into the couplers abit more and you will get more room.

 

ok so i need help with vac lines and boost and all that jazz cus yet again the install greddy ones suck ***

question 1 ) other then the lines i have touched during install do i need to reroute lines or just the ones in the upcoming photos

 

and the last two

yeah any help will be much needed im a noob at this vac line crap and life in general. So now i ask all you guru's who know about this Boosting stuff.

 

Connect that bung on the turbo inlet pipe to your crankcase breather line. If the kit didn't come with a vacuum line for this, you might be able to finagle the stock rubber piece over there, or just go to the parts store and buy some vacuum line. You can see it in the instructions.

Yes, you can tee the AFPR vacuum line off the line going to the stock FPR. You can see it in the instructions.

Maybe tee your boost gauge off another line/port. It's not hella crucial.

The instructions are here: http://www.greddyturbofaqs.com/installdirections.htm