How to get oil pan off?
The guy tapping your pan is an idiot. Use the FM instructions.
-23/32" hole
-1/2" NPT tap
Don't drill more than 1/4" or so into the pan, just barely enough to make a hole. The pickup is right behind where you have to drill. Go slow, and grease the hell out of the bit (dip the bit in thick grease). Tap the same way; again, don't go too deep. Clean everything up, thread your fitting in, throw some JBWeld on it, and hook up your return line. Pour a quart of paint thinner into the return line with the drain plug out to get the chips you missed with the grease.
Seriously, hundreds if not thousands of people have done it that way with no issues reported. Dropping your oil pan requires pulling the motor or dropping the front subframe, and it's completely unnecessary.
-23/32" hole
-1/2" NPT tap
Don't drill more than 1/4" or so into the pan, just barely enough to make a hole. The pickup is right behind where you have to drill. Go slow, and grease the hell out of the bit (dip the bit in thick grease). Tap the same way; again, don't go too deep. Clean everything up, thread your fitting in, throw some JBWeld on it, and hook up your return line. Pour a quart of paint thinner into the return line with the drain plug out to get the chips you missed with the grease.
Seriously, hundreds if not thousands of people have done it that way with no issues reported. Dropping your oil pan requires pulling the motor or dropping the front subframe, and it's completely unnecessary.
+1, I would say at least hundreds of us have done it wothout removing the pan.
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It's been done this was for over 10 years.
There's nothing on to installing a turbo kit that would require pulling an engine or dropping the pan.
I'd suggest you and your friend invest in some *****, read up, and do the tried and true way. The only one I've hear dof screwing it up is Loki, but that's because he's a silly curled hair freak.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,402
Total Cats: 7,523
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
9.6 volt Makita right-angle FTW.
Although 1/2" NPT is the prevelant size, you can also use a 3/8" NPT. Slightly easier to drill and tap, and more compact. The ID of a 3/8" fitting is roughly the same as a -10AN fitting, which is what I am using for the rest of the drain line. It's perfectly adequate and will be slightly easier to do.
I can understand your mechanic's hesitation to go blindly drilling into the oil pan, especially since the oil pickup tube is right behind where you'll be drilling, but it is a relatively safe procedure that's been done hundreds of times.
Although 1/2" NPT is the prevelant size, you can also use a 3/8" NPT. Slightly easier to drill and tap, and more compact. The ID of a 3/8" fitting is roughly the same as a -10AN fitting, which is what I am using for the rest of the drain line. It's perfectly adequate and will be slightly easier to do.
I can understand your mechanic's hesitation to go blindly drilling into the oil pan, especially since the oil pickup tube is right behind where you'll be drilling, but it is a relatively safe procedure that's been done hundreds of times.
i went ahead and pulled my motor when i was prepping the engine bay for paint. I just pulled the pan then and drilled it out on a press. I never could figure out a way to make any of my cordless drills get into that tight spot. *shrug*
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,402
Total Cats: 7,523
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
The trick for me was to disconnect the P/S lines and the steering column, remove the four bolts that hold the rack to the frame, and let the steering rack hang down supported by the tie rods. Opened up plenty o' space.
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