second problem with etd manifold
05-18-2007, 12:37 AM
#1
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second problem with etd manifold
Just wondering if anyone else ran into this problem. the middle bolt on the bottom row that bolt up the turbo manifold to the engine is a tight *** fit. meaning that i can't get a wrench or a socket in there....no way possible. I even have to chop off the end of that stud just so the manifold can be pushed back all the way. anyone else with this problem? or am i the lucky guy. also, what do y'all advise? tighten the rest to torque spec and tighten the middle as much as i can?
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05-18-2007, 02:07 PM
#11
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tried grainger and fasten-all. i'll check for more. i got a response from etd.
"The large tube are like that, there just isn't anything we can do with the size of the flange on the 1.6L. Just reef it down as best you can it shouldn't leak, we have had hundreds like that go out with no problem. The manifold bolts only need about 15 ft/lbs total to seel so that just arm tight. If you have about that much on it, it will be ok. The good news is that it's in the middle of the manifold and the rest of the bolts around it also help hold it all down. If you have any type of pressure on it at all it will be fine. The only other way to do it is to use smaller tubing which would seriously inhibit the flow of the manifold so this small trade off makes a better flowing manifold. Unfortunately Greddy didn't leave us much to work with if you know what I mean."
"The large tube are like that, there just isn't anything we can do with the size of the flange on the 1.6L. Just reef it down as best you can it shouldn't leak, we have had hundreds like that go out with no problem. The manifold bolts only need about 15 ft/lbs total to seel so that just arm tight. If you have about that much on it, it will be ok. The good news is that it's in the middle of the manifold and the rest of the bolts around it also help hold it all down. If you have any type of pressure on it at all it will be fine. The only other way to do it is to use smaller tubing which would seriously inhibit the flow of the manifold so this small trade off makes a better flowing manifold. Unfortunately Greddy didn't leave us much to work with if you know what I mean."
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05-18-2007, 02:23 PM
#12
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"design for manufacturability" and "design for assembly" are two phrases I hear all the time at work (machine shop) and unfortunetly is all too often not considered. I have a nut like that on my 2.5" dp, I just left it off. don't want that with the manifold though, you'll just loose boost.
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05-18-2007, 02:39 PM
#14
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when i got the manifold it had a hole in the welding so i had to get it patched up, which wasn't too big of a problem. it sucked because it took 6 weeks to get. so its kinda been one thing after another. but hopefully everything else goes smooth.
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02-15-2008, 01:39 AM
#18
I had a FM3 (and have installed FM2's) and that center nut can be a bear. What I do is tighten the nut with my fingers as much as possible at first. I found a trick that if you carefully fish a boxed in wrench, it will just barely slip over the nut. You can get a little turn from accessing from the top, then a little more from the bottom. Alternate from the top to bottom. Yes, it's a pain but it works.
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02-15-2008, 01:58 AM
#19
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if u were in west coast, autozone has all of that u just have to be pushy about it... employees (i work there weekends) dont like to have to go through the troubles of going through shelves and shelves of bolts//nuts//studs etc... i like to tell the customers it doesnt exist...
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