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Old 05-17-2007, 07:27 PM   #1
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Default JUST PURCHASED A BUILT TURBO CAR, request your wisdom

Just purchased a 1990 shortnose crank (113K) Greddy turbo car (only 10K on turbo) Good deal had to buy it...

I also have a Spec Miata 1.6 and a street 1990 with a longnose crank motor

Greddy Turbo car has....
GFB vent to atmosphere blow off valve
Bipes ACU
Koyo 37mm larger Alum. radiator
1.8 injectors installed (1.6 available in a box)
running stock boost 4.5 PSI
Vortech Fuel Pressure Regulator
Base Timing is set at 12* and the Bipes is set to pull 6* @ RPM also pulls a little bit based on Temp.
It did pass SMOG but on the limit on HC (108) and seems to be rich at low RPM probably due to the 1.8 injectors
It also dies occasionally after the RPMs come down by putting in the clutch...if it does not die it goes down to 200 RPMs and bounces back up to 800 RPMs probably due to 1.8s?

I have a FM cat to add and a RB exhaust....
????????S
Is the turbo too much for a short nose? any preventative measures?
I would like to run more boost, is it safe with this setup?
Setup ideas?
Is there a way to set up air fuel meter on the car to help tune?
Suggestions on relocating the intake from stock Greddy position (back of engine bay)?cost effective approach?
Suggestions on an intercooler?size?brand?kit?piping? most cost effective?

Last edited by Danimal; 05-18-2007 at 12:07 PM. Reason: updated Greddy parts list
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Old 05-17-2007, 07:33 PM   #2
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It also dies occasionally after the RPMs come down by putting in the clutch...if it does not die it goes down to 200 RPMs and bounces back up to 800 RPMs probably due to 1.8s?
lightened flywheel?
bad dashpot?
vacuum leak - (BOV recircuilated?)

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Is the turbo too much for a short nose? any preventative measures?
no, yes, see miata.net garage

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I would like to run more boost, is it safe with this setup?
yes, you should have enough fuel for 160rwhp

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Setup ideas?
read a lot here.

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Originally Posted by Danimal View Post
Is there a way to set up air fuel meter on the car to help tune?
yes, search LC-1 or AEM UEGO

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Suggestions on relocating the intake from stock Greddy position (back of engine bay)?cost effective approach?
not unless you add an intercooler

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Suggestions on an intercooler?size?brand?kit?piping? most cost effective?
stripes pipes....see link under our banner.
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Old 05-17-2007, 07:46 PM   #3
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Isnt stock boost 5.5?
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Old 05-17-2007, 08:03 PM   #4
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The short nose problem can be an issue even without FI. Might be a good idea to inspect it anyway. As is, you' d be save to ~6 psi. With I/C and everthing you have now, you can go to 8psi. Check vacumn as it drops to idle.
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Old 05-17-2007, 11:20 PM   #5
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If you don't have any vacuum leaks, your idle problem may be due to a clogged or faulty IAC valve. It's the device attached to the bottom of the throttle body that controls airflow at idle when the throttle plate is closed. Over time, the little roller in there can get sticky, or the electronics inside the thing wear out. This thing is well documented over at m.net... do a search on the fixes.
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Old 05-18-2007, 11:51 AM   #6
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Isnt stock boost 5.5?
I will check the manual, but yes I believe 4.5 is stock Greddy boost
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Old 05-18-2007, 11:57 AM   #7
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As fas as I know stock flywheel and it drives like a stock flywheel...
DASHPOT???
I will check the vacum hoses and IAC valve..

Thanx
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Old 05-18-2007, 12:06 PM   #8
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Old 05-19-2007, 11:45 AM   #9
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Read completely through the FAQ for some good info:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4288

I think most of us will agree that your next step needs to be something to get the intake charge temps down. You need an IC or WaterInjection. Do you have PowerSteering or A/C? The low boost you're running now probably won't cause any knocking problems yet, but sumnmer is here and it's getting hotter. Without an IC, if you want to up the boost more than about 6psi, you'll have to pull too much timing for knock prevention to make it worth it.

After you get the intake temps down, you're going to be interested in a stronger fuel pump. I was running 1.8's really rich up to around 170whp @130psi of fuel pressure. Now I'm running 305'[email protected] of fuel pressure @12psi boost for 190whp. Obviously lower fuel pressure is better, but I had no problems with flow in the 130psi range. Of course you can only run so large an injector on the stock ECU. 330's seem to be the recognized upper limit for good idle characteristics.

So, get yourself and IC or WI and turn boost up to 7psi. Then get a fuel pump and you should be set for 10-11psi. For more boost, invest in bigger injectors so you can get the fuel pressure down. You'll need a fuel pressure gauge and an assortment of Vortech discs. You can tune based on the match and other setups, or you can get a Wideband, or get on a dyno.

Just to make sure, you're using the highest octane available to you, right?
You have budgeted for a clutch? You'll need one above your current power level.
What other mods are on your car? Post some pics in the vbGarage and give a full writeup. Fill out your sig too.





You can install the cat/exhaust, get a decent IC, get an appropriate disc for the vortech, and you shouldn't have any problems running up to about 10-12psi on the
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Old 05-19-2007, 04:51 PM   #10
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Yes, Power Steering and A/C w/o belt on and running high pump gas....

Clutch replaced last year OEM replacement Exedy (according to prev. owner)

NO knocking so far.....

Fuel pump suggestions? stock 1.8 or???

I want to do an IC, any suggestions? cost effective? what do you think of the ones on ebay for 69?

Stupid ?, but I am new to turbos.....How do I increase boost?
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