I'm worried about insurance to be honest. Also I can do that later if i get really hungry. I know cost is cheap especially nowadays but Phoebe deserves better treatment than just carving out her heart.
232bhp (ie the classic double) as a start. I assume I'll be bitten again but the wallet is more flimsy now.
A pleasant end goal would be 232rwhp but will likely require rods and while I'm doing that i can really play (like getting a 1.8 or upping the RPM limit).

they offered me a free ecu when I brought the cold hard truth into their thread here and made them cry. I was going to try it and report back. after they realized I wasn't about to sugar coat or lie about anything, they changed their mind and never sent me one.

here's the thread
me221 fm221 rip off drama now 60% less rip hydra/

I think you could get there with a 2554 - it would be at the top end of what it would do, but it will suit a 1.6 much better than the larger turbo. I had mine at about 225FWHP at about 11-12PSI (on a 1.8) from what I remember, and there was still some extra in it...

Another option is the Subaru td04 route, the 13t is really cheap, fits one of krakens setups, and is slightly bigger than a 2554. It's good for 240whp and 300wtq at full tilt

I don't know or care about most of the ECUs in this thread, but... floating point? On an ECU? Are you planning on using the spare cycles in it to run DOOM or mine bitcoins or something?

An ECU isn't a general purpose computer, it doesn't run arbitrary 3rd party apps where having processing power in reserve is a benefit for future expandability. It's a single purpose appliance that's only ever going to run one program with very specifically defined performance requirements. There's no benefit to having a CPU that's faster than required, all it does is increase the hardware cost and complexity. An ECU is there to control an engine, and an engine is a physical device that moves very very slowly compared to electrons in silicon. 1 degree of crank rotation at 7200 RPM is 23 microseconds, which is an eternity on any CPU made in the last 25 years.

--Ian

This is my plan. I know two people local with 1.8 kraken setups (one TD04, one 2554) and the love the kraken parts. I am waiting on the new batch of 1.6 td04 manifolds to roll in.

Thanks for the bump on that one - was a great read.

This requires a more in depth response so I've pinged you a DM :)

That is very helpful thank you

As you may have guessed that was the thread I was quoting.

so much vendor fail in this thread its actually epic.

a pro tip to any start up company, never attack any one on a public forum, never slam the competition and only offer advise and help.

The uber defensive nonsense responses i saw in that thread are the worst marketing mistake a company can make.

it actually made me curious about the me221, so i googled "me221 reviews". there is nothing current, and the older 2015-2016 posts there is a strange fan-boi "pro tuners" that respond to all kind of different threads on different forums with the same copy/paste response praising the platform. very strange indeed....

Newbie internet mistakes really but I don't really appreciate the Title protip being added.
Makes it look like I wrote it which i did not.
Whilst evidence is certainly piling up a black and white statement like that is not helpful.

You've been a member here for far too long to seem surprised by the title-jack.

Oh I'm not surprised. This forum is always an up front honest place but when its bad mouthing deservedly or not when its your thread it feels dirty.

@sixshooter Ok I didn't expect that as a response but on a shitty monday morning it made me giggle.

This is nigh-on the setup i have on my NB8. MSLabs MS3 Mini, Kraken cast mani kit, 2560R, and the Bosch 640cc injectors. Cannot rate it (nor Bofi) highly enough. Great fitment and has allowed me to build a pretty stout DD without much hassle!

Pictures are required. Do you have any spool data for the 2560? It gives me head room which i may not need or maybe crucial dependent on how bitten i become. Although the TD04 idea is pretty good.

I comitted the "nono" as i need to keep the car super-squeaky-legal, so have a Cobalt sports cat midpipe and fairly baffled exhaust setup. I'm hitting 10psi by 3500 which i know is slow by many peoples standards. Tho there's more fiddling to be done with the tuning.

Dan @ Bofi has a 2554R on his 1.6, and that thing is just bonkers. If i had a 1.6, thats the route i would of gone. I made the mistake of driving his car in early Jan, which pretty much cemented i needed boost as to speed up the rate upon which i could acquire cats!

We ended up knocking it out over 4 days in May. Engine out, full service, sump modified + simple baffle installed, Fidanza superlight flywheel and Comp Clutches Stage 3 clutchkit, back in the car along with the Bofi sourced 640ccs, the Kraken mani & downpipe, and a brand spankers new 2560R. Oh, and a skidnation coolant reroute (with neck delete). Had issues with the OEM Garrett actuator, so ended up replacing it with the Kinugara one which ends up being nice and compact.

IC is down infront of the rad, is evacuated with a Forge TwinPiston DV, and boost control is done closed-loop on the MS3 with a MAC 3 port valve.

Where abouts in the country are you bud?

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...678b172ea.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...54caf6971.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bf3a3fee1.jpeg

For what it's worth, i know the 2554 has more than enough potential to vent the block at full pelt, so i don't think you'd be giving up anything really significant if you went down to that instead of a 2560R, in lieu of some bonkers spool!

The kinushita actuator is the answer to your slow spool up.
Make a bracket for the stock actuator.