MK turbo with FM heat shield
#2
#10
mkturbo.com
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Between cost of aluminum, designing and water jet costs, and the labor for welding aluminum it all adds up really fast. I can be $200 into building a heat shield really fast and it not looking perfect. Then I have to add markup on top to justify me making them. I can't justify a $300 heat shield to my customers, hence why I just tell them all to make them themselves.
#11
Between cost of aluminum, designing and water jet costs, and the labor for welding aluminum it all adds up really fast. I can be $200 into building a heat shield really fast and it not looking perfect. Then I have to add markup on top to justify me making them. I can't justify a $300 heat shield to my customers, hence why I just tell them all to make them themselves.
Unfortunately, I threw out my dimensional info after I sold the car. But you could mock up with cardboard and have a shop quote you for 5-20pc and do the cut + bend then weld the tabs as you need them.
#12
I finally got the heat shield. It was still $100. I'm in the process of making it fit now. It looks like it will bolt up to existing holes, the back one being a ground. On the 01 cars the brake lines run right up to the downpipe. I moved the proportioning valve to get clearance. It looks like I'm going to have to bend the heater hard line more as it hits. I also need to cut a notch for the wastegate arm. How close can the heat shield be to the turbo without it hitting? It looks like I might have to shim it some, as it's pretty close to the top casting. I can't go very much because I'm running the oil line on top of the shield and I only have so much room, plus it will hit my shock strut bar. Any ideas will be helpful.
#13
I shimmed the shield up 1/4''. Something still hits, under hard acceleration. I'm guessing that, since it's the closest part, the wastegate arm is hitting. Going to grind a notch where the arm and the "hump" is in the casting. Hopefully 1/4'' will still do it.
I had some DEI heat protection with velcro to protect the heater line, brake lines etc. It burned the aluminum off. What would be a good insulating tape that I could use to wrap all my heat sensitive areas. I'm going to use this to close up the 1/4'' gap where I shimmed it.
I'm going to cover cruise control lines with some fuel line, that I'll split. The outer lining has burned off, exposing the metal. Should I spray any kind of lubricant in those exposed parts? Silicone, wd40 or some other non petroleum solvent?
I had some DEI heat protection with velcro to protect the heater line, brake lines etc. It burned the aluminum off. What would be a good insulating tape that I could use to wrap all my heat sensitive areas. I'm going to use this to close up the 1/4'' gap where I shimmed it.
I'm going to cover cruise control lines with some fuel line, that I'll split. The outer lining has burned off, exposing the metal. Should I spray any kind of lubricant in those exposed parts? Silicone, wd40 or some other non petroleum solvent?
#16
If anybody is interested I got the shield to fit well. 3/8'' of shims made plenty of clearance without grinding anything. I had to move the proportioning valve towards the driver's fender an inch or so, for brake line clearance. The hard line, from the heater hose also needed to be moved so that it was pushing against the dipstick tube. One of the clips, that held the cruise control line had to be removed, as the shield had a tab so it can be bolted to it. I zip tied the cable out of the way, after covering it with a piece of fuel line. I'm going to stay true to my MK turbo roots and drill out the panel that says Flyin Miata powered, in the future. I still need to wrap master cylinder and heater hoses with something to repel heat. Anybody have any recommendations?
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