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Old 10-04-2006, 09:18 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbsauce View Post
Well most of this is listed above but I'll say a few things:

Depending on when you last changed them, you might want to consider spark plugs and wires and taking your plugs to a smaller gap/one step colder. Definitely budget for a clutch, and the possibility of a rear end. Wrap things that might melt in heat wrap... not the exhaust itself.. and retard that timing. Other then that.. have fun
+1

I would also add a fuel filter to the list..
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Old 10-04-2006, 10:26 PM   #22
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fuel filter and new plugs going in before install, I'm also considering checking the fuel system using a gauge before the install just to be certain everything's up to snuff. AC is coming out, stopped for the night, picking back up tomorrow after "mandatory" platoon breakfast at 0615.. yeah..

what's the consensus on plugs? which ones? I don't know if the dude at advance or wherever will know what to get me for one step colder plugs..
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Old 10-04-2006, 11:04 PM   #23
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KOTO -
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AC is coming out, stopped for the night, picking back up tomorrow after "mandatory" platoon breakfast at 0615.. yeah..
Why do you want to pull your A/C?
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:11 AM   #24
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It doesn't work anyway so it's just dead weight right now.

So it looks like I'll be installing a devilsown WI kit, bipes, and aux. fuel pump along with the kit, since they should all arrive around the next week or so.

Speaking of, with the bipes and WI, I plan on running 6 psi. How much timing should I be able to get away with? I'm trying to cut down on lag as much as possible.

Last edited by kotomile; 10-05-2006 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 10-05-2006, 02:36 PM   #25
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Ripping out the AC freed up so much room!! The radiator seems much happier now too since it's getting a breath of fresh air. It also *seems like* I can feel the absence of it as more agility in the steering wheel, maybe it's just placebo effect.

So far in prepping for the kit I've:

1. changed the fuel filter
2. done my best to clean out the intake manifold by fogging with injector cleaner
3. timing belt/wp are new (about 5-10k miles)

I've ordered:

1. Greddy kit
2. bipes
3. msd aux pump
4. devilsown basic kit, 3 gph nozzle

I'm thinking, and WideOpenTuning seems to like the idea, of running the 14* btdc that I have now, and having the bipes retard to 10* with the WI. I really want this thing to drive like it came with the turbo (as much as possible anyway). I plan on running 6 psi until I upgrade the fuel system further (what's the next step anyway? 1.8 injectors? better FMU?) and change out clutch, diff, etc.

Should I change the oil now or not bother until after the turbo install?
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Old 10-05-2006, 02:53 PM   #26
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I'd wait to change the oil and filter until after you install the turbo, especially if you intend to drill and tap the oil pan.
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Old 10-05-2006, 07:27 PM   #27
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Groovy, thanks! I'm gonna go full synthetic as soon as the turbo's on.

Anyone have answers to my other questions?
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Old 10-05-2006, 07:38 PM   #28
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For plugs,
NGK BRKR7E's (same as a Volvo S70????)
Timing- Try advancing 12-14 degree's base to start(make sure your using premium fuel). (never mind I see your at 14 already...)
Set the Bipes to pull 10-12 like you planned, make sure you have your fuel pressure right before playing with timing too much.
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Old 10-05-2006, 08:07 PM   #29
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BKR7E plugs.

You can also get autolite 3922s (a lot easier to find) for a one step colder plug for the 1.6.

And for FI you'll want to gap them between .030 and .035

If you search for a 2001 Saab 9-5 Turbo 3.0LV6 B308E, you should be able to use search results to help find a plug
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Old 10-05-2006, 08:14 PM   #30
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Autolites SUCK!
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Old 10-05-2006, 08:17 PM   #31
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I'm rocking them! All the same to me.
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Old 10-05-2006, 11:16 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jefe View Post
For plugs,
NGK BRKR7E's (same as a Volvo S70????)
Timing- Try advancing 12-14 degree's base to start(make sure your using premium fuel). (never mind I see your at 14 already...)
Set the Bipes to pull 10-12 like you planned, make sure you have your fuel pressure right before playing with timing too much.
Set bipes to pull 10-12 degrees or to retard TO 10-12 degrees? How much timing can I run with the WI @ 6 psi?

What do I do to "make the fuel pressure right"?
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Old 10-06-2006, 08:52 AM   #33
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dont pull 10-12, set it to retard 2-4, to reach 10-12*. Find your highest degree without ping and maybe pull one extra, but it shouldn't be much.
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Old 10-06-2006, 08:55 AM   #34
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From what I've been reading, the supplied FMU sucks. I think it's on Pop's page it says that it does nothing until 1 1/4 psi, then shoots up, then levels off at about 5psi, creating a lean/rich/stoich scenario as you make the transition into boost. Would it benefit me to get a Begi or Vortech S-FMU at this point then? Or do they do the same thing?
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Old 10-06-2006, 08:56 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braineack View Post
dont pull 10-12, set it to retard 2-4, to reach 10-12*. Find your highest degree without ping and maybe pull one extra, but it shouldn't be much.
Cool, thanks!

Do you know how to set up the switches to accomplish that?
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