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#1
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I have a 90 Miata with 44,000mi. I have had the Greddy Turbo base kit (nothing else) on for about 3000mi. I am disappointed with it, not because of the power but because of drivability. It seems like I have to be very careful on how hard I step on the gas. If I step on it too hard too soon even above 4000 rpms it feels like something is holding it back. If I step on it lightly the turbo will kick in but I have to be very careful not to give it too much gas or it seems to bog down.
I do not need more power, I would like better drivability what do I need to do so that I can have better drivability without spending a lot of money?
Thanks for any help
I do not need more power, I would like better drivability what do I need to do so that I can have better drivability without spending a lot of money?
Thanks for any help
#3
Maybe "bog down" is too strong of a word, it just accelerates a lot better and I can feel the turbo kick in if I do not give it too much gas too soon. The plugs and wires are only about 10,000 mi old, I have had the car since it was new and it always ran great. I do not remember what the timming was set at, I will check on that however the timming should be correct.
#7
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
I've been dumping in WAY too much fuel. I'm talking 10:1-9:1. It still pulls like a damn banshee at WOT. If his FMU lines are incorrect he might be clamping off fuel as his boost rises. An o2 clamp is a great device for boost transition, but his problem seems to have the tell-tale signs of a improperly plumbed FMU. But then I could be wrong.
#8
One of the cheapest (but not necessarily cheap) troubleshooting steps you can take isto replace the plugs and wires. The Miata is extremely susceptible to plug wire failure due to the nature of its ignition system. 10K miles is way too long on a single set of wires (YMMMV). The Miata fires on all-four cylinders, even when NOT on the compression stroke for that cylinder. This leads to early expriation of the wires, even before adding boost to the mix.
#11
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
The line going to the front of the rail should not have been touched.
The line going from the OEM FPR to the return hard line should be removed at the hard line. That line should connect to the offset fitting on the FMU and the OEM FPR. The center fitting should connect back into the hard line your removed the first line from. very simple.
The o2 clamp is only to prevent lean tip in during boost transitions. A great little device. But it wont help you retard timing. You'll need to stick with the static 6* for the time being.
#12
[QUOTE=kung fu jesus;43015]snowsurfer is right.[QUOTE]
HAHA Thanks knug fu!
What type of plugs and wires do you have?
Is there a "best" set of wires for a mild turbo set-up?
An o2 clamp will work for you but might not solve the problem completly. When I installed mine it was a big difference and well worth it.
HAHA Thanks knug fu!
What type of plugs and wires do you have?
Is there a "best" set of wires for a mild turbo set-up?
An o2 clamp will work for you but might not solve the problem completly. When I installed mine it was a big difference and well worth it.
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