Is that alot of work, precise? Any tutorial on that?

 

Update: the high pitched noise disappeared after fully warming up, but engine noises replaced it. They are opening the valve cover to see - and more when necessary.

 

Good news, bad news...

Well... the good news is: we found the problem.
The bad news is: cylinder 4 piston is missing a piece.

They are now pulling the head for definite diagnostics, but it seems we need to pull the engine and rebuild it.

 

Spooky,

Sorry to hear that. That sucks.

Jim

 

http://link.marktplaats.nl/177548751

Here's a cheap replacement block.

It's out of a 323 gt 1.8 ... Block is the same...
You need to change oilpan, oil pickup and oilpump (the 323 has a hole for the dipstick there... You can try to plug it...(easiest)

 

I am not going to guess on a replacement block. Cylinder 4 piston is confirmed dead and debries have entered cylinder 3. Going to take a look now.

Build suggestions?

 

Sure, What do you want?? Bullit proof??

If you are planning on staying under 15psi just rebuild it.
2 new(used) pistons headgasket and sealant for the oil pan
Let it hone and maybe you need oversized piston rings...Ask them.

In Boijl (friesland) kunnen ze dit ook voor je doen...Anders koks in ijmuiden of js team($$$$$$$)

Als je het zelf gaat doen: Hou alles gescheiden!! Als je iets loshaalt zet schroef het meteen weer exact op dezelfde manier weer in elkaar... (drijfstangen en krukaslagers)
Noteer richting en nummer zodat je alles weer precies het zelfde weer in elkaar zet.

Nogmaals... Als de kop goed is... zou ik voor het ruilblok gaan...
Met 100.000km echt een koopje...(ken hem niet , misschien wel veel meer gelopen.)

 

If you want bulit proof: Get the oil pump gears on this site.
Get the belfab rods and pistons. Or these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=190243987373
Some ARP head and main studs. And you are ready for 300hp+

Still you need the block honed. Check clearance on the new rods and rodpins.

When you are putting the engine back togetter use a lot of oil on the bearrings!! Too much is not possible.
Each time tightning a bearring try to move the crank , if there is any fricktion redo the bearring. Until you have the crank in place rotating freely (this is why you need to take notes of all bearrings before you tear it appart. The 5 bearrings can easally be mixed up.

Then start with the pistons. Old pistons: Clean very very good, then do it again.
Break a deffect pistonring for cleaning the pistonring gaps.

The new pistons (with rings attached) must be placed in the cylinder using a special tool. Again you have made notes of the pistons about front and rear.... So align them right.

When tightning the rods to the crank , every time check if the crank stil moves freely... Use a lot off oil her too. Also inside the cylinder.

Hope you have enough time and money...

 

I won't be doing the build myself, so I don't need alot of assembly advise
Tips on OEM vs forged is welcome, pro/cons. I think I will be aiming for 12psi on the GT2554R (sweet spot IIRC) so I think that'd be < 250 rwhp.

I will be doing clutch at the same time and keep the OEM flywheel, slightly lightened.

 

throw a new shortblock on it, new HG, and call it a day.... $200-400 bucks and a weekend and you'll be good as new.

 

Sorry to hear about your bad luck.

It sounds like a bunch of debris entered your engine through the intake, and at a minimum took out cylinders 3 and 4. Any idea what the source of this debris might be? Since you have a BEGi-S kit, which doesn't have an intercooler, that rules out that possibility. Otherwise, what's left; parts of the compressor, welding slag from the tubing between the compressor and the intake, some fittings you misplaced? Besides being damned interesting, the information might be useful to others just about to install their own turbos.

Thanks, and again sorry.

Jim

 

The chipped piston was due to knock they assume. So either I was lean due to a faulty AFPR or the wastegate was ill adjusted. Either way I should've gone with WBO2 and a boost gauge (which I broke before my install was finished).

 

Ahhh, lessions learned. Well thanks for sharing that information. I would have though you'd have heard the detonation that took out your pistons, but apparently it's not as obvious as I assumed it would be. So, best of luck with your new, improved, and fully instrumented FI Miata. Let us know when it's back together and on the road.

 

 

BEGI-S manual says: set timing to stock, which is 10* BTDC. So your point is?

 

Is there no timing device on the begi set?? Normally on a greddy setup the timing must be adjusted to 6 degrees on 6psi... (89-93)
These 94-97 have lower compression but taking the timing to 10 is a lot....

Just read the manual and it clearly states:

Ignition Timing

Insure the timing is set to stock specs. The checking procedure requires a timing light. Changing the timing is a
different matter and a specific procedure must be followed. Or Install the Bipes ACU.

So try to ask begi what they can do about this...
Sure the boost pressure could be too high or the fp regulator could be mallfunktion...

 

If knock is encountered, cease testing and adjust ignition timing to 2 degrees less than stock. Retest for audible
knock. If encounter again, reduce the timing once more by 2 degrees. If knock is still present, some other matter
is causing knock and must be investigated.

 

Yea, I didn't encounter knock so I didn't retard. There probably was knock, but I did not encounter it... apparently hard to detect knock in a Miata :(

 

If that's really the case that seems like pretty dangerous directions to give someone (someone with possibly little to no experience with turbocharging) with a kit.

 

So your next order from Begi is at a discount???