tapped wrong spot AGH!!
#103
I did a pan swap for a friend once, lifted the engine and dropped the k-member. Less time consuming and easier than pulling the engine. Might be the best way to tap the pan if you wanted to visually inspect after tapping.
#111
becouse sealing the pan is so much simpler when u have the motor on a proper stand. I dont know about you but cleaning and resealing the pan with a 400 lbs motor swinging over my face is not my idea of safe. And pulling the motor and tranny takes like 2 hrs if you know what you are doing.
#112
Oh yeah I completely agree that any engine work would be easier on a stand, I don't think anyone would question that. I just wanted to ask the question regarding the grey area in between 'engine pull' and 'drill in situ' as it seemed to get glossed over pretty quickly above and in other threads I've read.
The VW ones I've done have all been really straight forward, scrape off any debris, quick wipe, then slap the new one on. Although admittedly the engine would be in it's mounts and fairly stable. I haven't actually used an engine support beam but the two point ones look pretty decent.
The VW ones I've done have all been really straight forward, scrape off any debris, quick wipe, then slap the new one on. Although admittedly the engine would be in it's mounts and fairly stable. I haven't actually used an engine support beam but the two point ones look pretty decent.
#113
Oh yeah I completely agree that any engine work would be easier on a stand, I don't think anyone would question that. I just wanted to ask the question regarding the grey area in between 'engine pull' and 'drill in situ' as it seemed to get glossed over pretty quickly above and in other threads I've read.
--Ian
#118
OTC_oil_drain.jpg[/QUOTE]
Anyone ever fitted the drain on the right handside of the dipstick hole, in the small space there??
Anyone ever fitted the drain on the right handside of the dipstick hole, in the small space there??
#119
Would be hard to fotograph that.... As the engine is in. But I tapped it 3" above the pic on the previous post. Right in the "dot" that is there for some reason.
It is in the middle of the 4 bolt holes. That way it cleares the AC.
I overhauled the engine so I could just drill in the block without leaving debris in the engine. Drilling and tapping in the iron gives the hose connection more strength.
It is in the middle of the 4 bolt holes. That way it cleares the AC.
I overhauled the engine so I could just drill in the block without leaving debris in the engine. Drilling and tapping in the iron gives the hose connection more strength.
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