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Tightening begi upper and lower downpipes - Leaking - Loosening

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Old 11-02-2009, 10:12 AM
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yes, now it has a weld all around. No problems with the install, it fit right in.
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:40 AM
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OK this is how someone showed me to do it. It held and works. Nutted on both sides of the holes. I think the ************ still might leak though. That or I'm leaking exhaust some other place :(


WW6MG.jpg


Can someone please post a link to the exhaust wrap to seal the ******?
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:43 AM
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Just get it welded and enjoy your turbo setup instead of screwing around with it again and again.
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by faeflora
Can someone please post a link to the exhaust wrap to seal the ******?



am i ignore?
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Old 11-02-2009, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by faeflora
OK this is how someone showed me to do it. It held and works. Nutted on both sides of the holes. I think the ************ still might leak though. That or I'm leaking exhaust some other place :(





Can someone please post a link to the exhaust wrap to seal the ******?
MS-paint FTMFW
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Old 11-02-2009, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
am i ignore?
nope, weld is cheaper though
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Old 11-02-2009, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by triple88a
nope, weld is cheaper though
JB weld is cheaper than weld but um the way my turboe is set up I can't weld the dp to the other pipe because my dp is partially welded to my turboe. See pic:

NcpEQ.jpg

and downpipe

hE99w.jpg

This is a BEGI S5. I ordered it 2 years ago and the website had the bolt on system but they sent this to me. I didn't know very much about turbocharging then and only marginally more now so I don't really understand the design.
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Old 11-02-2009, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
am i ignore?
Thank you for the repost--- The permatex looks very appealing but wouldn't work for my application. As for the exhaust clamp that might do it but tightening those down is kinda painful since you have to put a ridiculous amount of torque on them to close em properly. Then again I don't really pull my exhaust apart very often. I will try it if they have 3" ty.
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:32 AM
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man with your setup i think you might be better off with a Vband.
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:13 PM
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So i got that crap sealed.. now it leaks where it bolts to the cat. I can see the wet spot on the cold ground every mourning after letting it warm up.
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:20 PM
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get a new gasket.
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Old 11-06-2009, 12:05 AM
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i got one today, just gotta install it

hopefully they gave me the right one
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Old 12-08-2009, 05:20 PM
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my 03 is welded. I had a hell of a time with that down pipe, but it is possible to put it on after it is welded.

I dont like that bolt idea it was one of my many problems with the pipe.
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:48 PM
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An update for my downpipe:

My downpipe was not leaking at all. My leak was at the flange between the downpipe and the exhaust midpipe. Ordered some crush gaskets-- they should make it no leakum.
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
am i ignore?
Braineack--- that permatex tape ****-- can you cut it off? I assume you can take the pipes apart after you permatex seal them right?

http://permatex.com/products/Automot...pe_Bandage.htm
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Old 12-15-2009, 07:53 PM
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I recently installed the Begi Greddy downpipe, yeah the crossbolt idea is a weird one but so far mine has held up with no leaks anywhere.
I cut down an open ended spanner to allow me to turn that damn nut as there's minimal room to get any turn on a regular spanner down there (if you follow Begi's instructions and tighten the crossbolt once the rest of the exhaust is installed), and no known socket in this world will fit over the nut as it's tight up against the pipe.
A bit of loctite threadlock seems to work too, despite the heat down there.

In all honesty though I would think a regular 2.5" pipe clamp would be a better solution than the crossbolt idea, that's what I had on my previous downpipe and never had ANY problems with leaks.
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