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I'm excited to see the KO exhaust. I've seen a few of his fab projects but it's been on race cars (laz), it'll be good to see what he can do for a street car's setup.
I think I jumped the gun on putting the water lines in though because I haven't run my intercooler pipping or done the final clock on the outlet. If I try and clock it down I don't think it will clear the shelf or the water lines while installed.
It's a little finnicky, but if you loosen the compressor v-band completely, you can slide it off the front of the turbo and re-clock it without removing anything.
I'm excited to see the KO exhaust. I've seen a few of his fab projects but it's been on race cars (laz), it'll be good to see what he can do for a street car's setup.
I should call KO again and let them know it is close. I only talked with once some months back and they did sound busy. I am cool with the car waiting a bit though.
It's a little finnicky, but if you loosen the compressor v-band completely, you can slide it off the front of the turbo and re-clock it without removing anything.
Looks awesome
I will give that a try. I may just unhook the waterlines at the rubber and loosen up the whole manifold enough to tilt and clear the shelf.
Last edited by farpolemiddle; 10-16-2016 at 02:33 PM.
I also ordered a new flex fuel sensor. I am going to play around and mix my own around 30%. I don't need corn at these starting powers but I think it will be fun to tinker. My intention is to experiment and see some benefit with less taxes on the fuel system.
It's a little finnicky, but if you loosen the compressor v-band completely, you can slide it off the front of the turbo and re-clock it without removing anything.
Looks awesome
Did this. much easier than what I was thinking.
Wow what a pain in the *** pulling the tranny without a lift. I am seriously just going to pay someone to do it next time. So does this jack stand set up look sketch? Cutting the tab off with the tranny out of the car = winning.
Just a heads up the three 4mm allen that hold the waste gate actuator bracket are sketch. two of the three where on there pretty good and I almost stripped them. As soon as they felt wrong I stopped and picked up a fresh never used allen. I also used a rubber mallet to tap the bracket a little as I loosened them and that did it.
Yeah I had the same experience, I tried two 4mm allens, and neither really gave me confidence that it 'fit'. I ended up stripping one, and hammering in a torx bit to get it out.. I bet a 4.5mm filed down a bit would be perfect. They're also easier to get out when the turbo is super hot.
You mentioned the low boost actuator, etc. I recommend reading the Borg Warner documentation on setting preload. I set mine to very little preload and it builds probably 13-14 psi max, then tapers off to maybe 10-11 psi at redline (no EBC yet). You also need to have the wastegate rod VERY straight to work optimally - you might have to clock the center (CHRA) to do that.
OH and you'll likely need to trim the hood brace a bit to clear the wastegate can if your car is an NA (looks like it is). I used a paint pen and painted the very top of the can, then closed the hood. This gave me a little mark, and I just cut a 3"x3" square around that mark with a dremel - very easy.
Yeah I had the same experience, I tried two 4mm allens, and neither really gave me confidence that it 'fit'. I ended up stripping one, and hammering in a torx bit to get it out.. I bet a 4.5mm filed down a bit would be perfect. They're also easier to get out when the turbo is super hot.
You mentioned the low boost actuator, etc. I recommend reading the Borg Warner documentation on setting preload. I set mine to very little preload and it builds probably 13-14 psi max, then tapers off to maybe 10-11 psi at redline (no EBC yet). You also need to have the wastegate rod VERY straight to work optimally - you might have to clock the center (CHRA) to do that.
OH and you'll likely need to trim the hood brace a bit to clear the wastegate can if your car is an NA (looks like it is). I used a paint pen and painted the very top of the can, then closed the hood. This gave me a little mark, and I just cut a 3"x3" square around that mark with a dremel - very easy.
Savington - you may want to add a heads up on these allens in your instructions. Like I said earlier what worked for me was a fresh allen wrench and lightly tapping the bracket at the top while turning with a rubber mallet.
I was hoping to tune it with ebc and low actuator around 10... Well lets see how long this motor lasts. I just picked up rods, boundary oil pump, 949 water pump and ARP studs along with a begi reroute. Looks like I will be using that stuff sooner than I want. The canister looks pretty straight but we will see.
I was wondering about that damn canister hitting the roof. Guess I know now.
Last edited by farpolemiddle; 10-18-2016 at 12:46 AM.
"looks pretty straight" probably won't cut it. You need to make sure the flapper arm slides smoothly on the actuator rod with the lower nut undone. If it doesn't, clock the CHRA until it does.
Did you max out the lift range on your jackstands or something? Ran out of notches? Cutting blocks out of a 4x4 and putting them on top of the jackstands would have been safer.
Well I have no idea how to post a damn video but I have one rocking the engine back and forth on the motor mounts without the tranny. It moves front to back very easy. Does this mean my mounts are toast?
I guess it is normal. Word.
Last edited by farpolemiddle; 10-18-2016 at 09:41 PM.
Reason: oops
10-16-2016, 11:51 AM
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