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Trackspeed build plan

Old 10-18-2016, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
"looks pretty straight" probably won't cut it. You need to make sure the flapper arm slides smoothly on the actuator rod with the lower nut undone. If it doesn't, clock the CHRA until it does.
So I reclocked the turbo so that the flapper arms falls off pretty easy but I have to apply pressure down for it to happen. To get it any straighter on the arm I would have to bend the actual bracket it is attached to. I hope I am explaining this right. If I could figure out the video posting from photo bucket it would be a lot easier.
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:22 PM
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I'll post the video. Gimme a second.
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
I'll post the video. Gimme a second.
​​​​​​​
​​​​​​​So like I posted earlier. Should I bend the bracket down a little?

Last edited by farpolemiddle; 10-18-2016 at 11:44 PM. Reason: god damn it
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Old 10-19-2016, 12:50 AM
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That's fine, no need to bend the bracket. They all seem to have a little kink up like that, but you don't need to compensate for it.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 10-19-2016, 02:24 AM
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pressurize the can and make sure it opens and closes the flapper and doesn't bind.
I had to figure this out the hard way on an early production 6258 with the terrible ugly hotside
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Old 10-19-2016, 02:41 AM
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I told him to pressurize it too.

Build is going well, car will be cool.

Don't be so sure about blowing the motor though. You can keep it alive!

The new housings are like a mix of the nice investment cast and ugly *** sand cast. I should have brought mine over.
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Old 10-19-2016, 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
I told him to pressurize it too.

Build is going well, car will be cool.

Don't be so sure about blowing the motor though. You can keep it alive!

The new housings are like a mix of the nice investment cast and ugly *** sand cast. I should have brought mine over.

Testing the actuator is on the list. The list is actually longer than I would like but each day I get a few things done. I didn't realize there was so much evolution of the EFR casting. I wouldn't mind seeing a few for comparison. That said I don't give a **** if the casting looks like lava rock as long as it works well.
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Old 10-19-2016, 02:46 AM
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Take a good pic of yours.

EO2K post your butthole housing
Chooofoojoo post your sex housing.
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:14 AM
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I don't wanna, it just illustrates my failures as a man.
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:43 PM
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https://www.miataturbo.net/prefabbed...0/#post1237297

The new housings are shell-mold cast, which is the same process as what we used on our manifolds.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:46 PM
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Shell mold is definitely better looking than the sand cast.
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Old 10-19-2016, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
I don't wanna, it just illustrates my failures as a man.
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:25 PM
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So I am standing here looking at my car. The tranny and radiator are out. The fuel lines are unhooked. On my work bench I have rods, boundary oil pump, arp studs and a 949 water pump. I am an idiot if I don't pull this engine and build it now.....
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:01 PM
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If it's in the budget do it
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:13 PM
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I've always found it's easier to motivate myself to work on a project car when it runs regularly. Buy a second block and build that.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:18 PM
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Build one of my spare vvt blocks
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Build one of my spare vvt blocks
Is it complete with head and all the stuff? How much? I really do not want to track down all the stuff to make it work.
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:48 PM
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It could be. But id rather keep the heads. I have one that had rock knock. Crank would need to be looked at. Other one has a cracked oil pan but could be made to work.
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
It could be. But id rather keep the heads. I have one that had rock knock. Crank would need to be looked at. Other one has a cracked oil pan but could be made to work.
I have a mazdaspeed crank sitting in my truck.
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Old 10-19-2016, 10:41 PM
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perfect match
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