So I reclocked the turbo so that the flapper arms falls off pretty easy but I have to apply pressure down for it to happen. To get it any straighter on the arm I would have to bend the actual bracket it is attached to. I hope I am explaining this right. If I could figure out the video posting from photo bucket it would be a lot easier.

 

I'll post the video. Gimme a second.

 

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​​​​​​​So like I posted earlier. Should I bend the bracket down a little?

 

That's fine, no need to bend the bracket. They all seem to have a little kink up like that, but you don't need to compensate for it.

 

pressurize the can and make sure it opens and closes the flapper and doesn't bind.
I had to figure this out the hard way on an early production 6258 with the terrible ugly hotside

 

I told him to pressurize it too.

Build is going well, car will be cool.

Don't be so sure about blowing the motor though. You can keep it alive!

The new housings are like a mix of the nice investment cast and ugly *** sand cast. I should have brought mine over.

 

Testing the actuator is on the list. The list is actually longer than I would like but each day I get a few things done. I didn't realize there was so much evolution of the EFR casting. I wouldn't mind seeing a few for comparison. That said I don't give a **** if the casting looks like lava rock as long as it works well.

 

Take a good pic of yours.

@EO2K post your butthole housing
@Chooofoojoo post your sex housing.

 

I don't wanna, it just illustrates my failures as a man.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/prefabbed...0/#post1237297

The new housings are shell-mold cast, which is the same process as what we used on our manifolds.

 

Shell mold is definitely better looking than the sand cast.

 

 

So I am standing here looking at my car. The tranny and radiator are out. The fuel lines are unhooked. On my work bench I have rods, boundary oil pump, arp studs and a 949 water pump. I am an idiot if I don't pull this engine and build it now.....

 

If it's in the budget do it

 

I've always found it's easier to motivate myself to work on a project car when it runs regularly. Buy a second block and build that.

 

Build one of my spare vvt blocks

 

Is it complete with head and all the stuff? How much? I really do not want to track down all the stuff to make it work.

 

It could be. But id rather keep the heads. I have one that had rock knock. Crank would need to be looked at. Other one has a cracked oil pan but could be made to work.

 

I have a mazdaspeed crank sitting in my truck.

 

perfect match