So decided to do the brakes. Put some Hawk pads and ATE 200 flush. My parking brake is AIDS. Only the right one will lock. The drivers side is fucked.

1. I double checked my 4mm allen adjusters twice and didn't work. Ok then.

2. Adjusted the cables at the rear brackets. I gave the working one slack and the bad one less slack. NOPE.

3. Disconnected the good one completely and sorry, go **** yourself still too much slack on the bad one.

4. Opened up the parking brake handle and adjusted the slack out at the lever and the bad one just started to work a little so it seems the caliper or parking brake mechanism on the drivers side is bad.

So **** it car. You win. One operating parking brake wheel is how it is going to be.

 

Did you take the adjuster out and see if it's stripped? If it is, swap the good one over and adjust it.

 

If you mean the 4mm allen adjusters behind the 14mm inspection bolt no I did not take them all the way out. They did however lock the wheel when I adjusted them all the way in and work as described when I backed them off roughly 1/2 to 1/3rd turn. Interesting though. I can check that next time its off the ground.

 

May want to run larger pipe on that intake. subaru crowd has had serious problems with struggling to make power due to too much inlet vac putting them off the top of the compressor map. Remember, pressure ratio.

 

 

Negcat for vertical

 

Also Aidan tuned up my Closed loop EBC today. I can't remember exactly because he uses fancy smart people words but it was doing about 10psi by 3,200 on 3rd gear pulls from 2,000 RPM.

 

GOD DAMN IPHONE + is the size of a small computer while driving in the rain. On the freeway. But I concede fail.

 

I have horizontal video. Intake is STUPID loud.

10psi at 3200rpm. It was pretty cool. I'll post logs later.

Pulls good. Solid 180-200hp on the butt dyno.

 

Haz video, but does not post said video....

 

So I think I have my coolant thing figured out. My overflow is just too small. I found some math online. When I had a stock radiator I did a diy overflow out of a bottle and relocated it so I would have more room for stuff. The bottle probably holds 12 oz tops the way I have it set up. Now that I have a big *** track speed radiator that along with the engine holds at least 8 quarts. Using the math below.
8ish x 32 x .18 = 46ish ounces. So I think it is expanding into the small *** overflow and pushing it out on to the street to poison animals and ****. Then it sucks it all back in but has less than before. I am going to try a 32 ounce hateraid bottle which is still a little small and see if I can stop killing the planet.

"Surge tank volumes are dependent on total system volume. A general rule of thumb is that you should have 12% of total volume for draw-down and 6% of total volume for expansion. Our trucks have a coolant system volume of 12.8 quarts. Do a little math and it comes out to 1.54 quarts of draw-down volume and .77 quarts of expansion volume, for a total surge tank size of 2.31 quarts."

 

Yay or nay?

 

Lol. Keep it.

 

My overflow does not do the things you describe with your fancy math. I has TSE rad. Blehh?

 

at turbo noises, that is awesome.

 

I dunno? The new one is in and so far so good. Another possibility is the cap is getting weak. I wasn't able to test it without removing the anode.

 

I know, right? I'd leave it like that for a track day because my exhaust is so quiet I'd want people to have another audible indicator of my cars position

It does sound like you are losing coolant. I'll not be a moron and read back through the last couple pages before asking stupid questions.

 

For a street car running coolant, you don't necessarily need the anode.

 

Everyone who says to leave it has not heard it in person. It is insanity. Its hard to talk over.

 

My wife won't even ride in the car anymore.