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If you're having difficulty with hex keys/fastener tolerances, spend a few bucks and buy an aerospace grade hex key. SAE hex tolerances are sloppy in comparison. SAE hex keys can cause a ton of grief if they're used on aerospace grade fasteners.
Made some progress. Clutch is done and the tranny is back in. Downpipe is in. V band for the win. I don't know who invented the V band but I hope they became rich. There is about 1/8 inch clearance between the back shelf.
A couple of stupid questions.
Does the turbo oil feed looked right? The instructions describe it this way but I want to make sure there is not too much angle.
What orientation does the lower downpipes need to be?
Any advice on how I am going to deal with the getting the intercooler pipping through this mess?
Last edited by farpolemiddle; Nov 1, 2016 at 03:31 AM.
Put on the rest of your exhaust to figure out DP orientation.
As for cold side IC piping. You pull off that line going to the idle valve, then run a 90 couple straight down. Cut the idle valve line short and hook it up to the IC pipe.
Used grease to mark where I need to cut the hood for the wastage actuator.
Nevermind. I just nutted up and cut it. Somehow my hood got tweaked sitting on the side of the house so of course it fits like **** now. I am glad this is not a show car because I swear the metal is so thin it is impossible not to **** it up when you get near it.
Last edited by farpolemiddle; Nov 1, 2016 at 10:49 PM.
I had to cut my package tray and bend some brake lines to fit mine. You have to keep in mind that you need to leave enough clerance for everything to move when the motor is shifting.
Yours is a lot farther back than mine. Have you checked your PPF alignment?
Originally Posted by MiataMan00
I had to cut my package tray and bend some brake lines to fit mine. You have to keep in mind that you need to leave enough cleanse for everything to move when the motor is shifting.
The motor mounts have a lot of front to back deflection. The PPF bolts to the rear of the tranny and ties in to the rear end. If you have the PPF set too low the engine can lean further back. If the PPF is set higher it tilts the motor further forward. At least thats what I just experienced a few days ago when I put my tranny back in. I could be wrong though.
The motor mounts have a lot of front to back deflection. The PPF bolts to the rear of the tranny and ties in to the rear end. If you have the PPF set too low the engine can lean further back. If the PPF is set higher it tilts the motor further forward. At least thats what I just experienced a few days ago when I put my tranny back in. I could be wrong though.
hmm. I did swap my diff so that possibly could have done something weird but I doubt it. I never touched the tranny side.
There is so much tolerance stacking in that location. The unibody to the subframe tabs, the subframe itself, the dimensions on the motor mount, the exact location of the cylinder head manifold studs, the exact location of the manifold fasteners, and the bend dimensions on the downpipe itself will all alter that clearance. The range is from "fits by 1/8 inch" to "needs 1/8" trim on package shelf".
I don't get why people have such a hard time with the hot side pipping? Mine has plenty of room. Here is the mock up. Cold side will still be the bitch.
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Mine has plenty of room. Here is the mock up. Cold side will still be the bitch.
