Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1400002)
IIRC they purchased a foundry to solve that issue (poor casting quality). All the recent housings are their new shell-mold housing which has exceptionally good finish, better than the investment housings IMO. Such is their commitment to QC.
Originally Posted by Lokiel
(Post 1400030)
I've got one of the original EFR6258s too EO2K and it's pretty rough, there's no way that Stage8 fasteners will fit unless the exhaust housing casting is filed down to provide flat surfaces for the Stage8 fasteners.
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I forgot about that. You're a saint, Gordon. I'd have made a large stink about that one.
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I haven't seen one that bad in a while. Our standard EFR 8mm stud package would fit in Gordon's housing pre-modification, though. I actually got the drawing specs for that area from BW during design on our studs to make sure of that. It's not an enjoyable installation, but on the plus side, the nut will never come off accidentally :)
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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1400196)
I forgot about that. You're a saint, Gordon. I'd have made a large stink about that one.
lol |
Originally Posted by Lokiel
(Post 1400030)
I know of several Aussie companies who've had the same QC issues with components made in China.
It seems to be part of the Chinese mindset, to cut costs/corners wherever possible and the only way to stop is is to have their own QC guys watching every step of the process. Until they change this mindset, China will never be a major car exporter because nobody will trust them not to fall apart or fail (Great Wall 4WDs in Australia have a reputation of stopping dead when driving across creeks, not enough waterproofing of electrical components). Interestingly, despite QC issues in China, most prefer manufacturing in China than India (apparently the Chinese are more trustworthy - read into that what you will). FYI: India would seem a more natural choice for Australian manufacturers since manufacturing in India is approximately the same cost-wise as Chine, we have close ties to India, we're part of the British Commonwealth, both speak English and are both Cricket "powerhouses" (Cricket is the one unifying "religion" in India).. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1400330)
The issue with India is infrastructure. Factories have dirt floors where they have concrete in china. They dont have consistent power from the grid so they have to run on generator power a lot. If you get a supplier from there like IndoMIM that have their infrastructure shit together they're just like working with a supplier from USA or Europe.
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Hey Sav, is there any solution you might have in mind to the single stud that can't accept the stg8 hardware? I know it's a tight fit so we might be boned but figured I'd ask. I just pulled my car from storage and upon inspection noticed that the nut backed all the way out but the housing stopped it (as expected). No issues other than that to be honest.
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^
These are what I used on my early EFR6258 since it wouldn't accomodate the Stage8 fasteners, Nissan Genuine OEM T25 T28 Turbo Turbine Locking Tabs: FRSport.com: Nissan Genuine OEM T25 T28 Turbo Turbine Locking Tab |
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot
(Post 1401928)
Hey Sav, is there any solution you might have in mind to the single stud that can't accept the stg8 hardware? I know it's a tight fit so we might be boned but figured I'd ask. I just pulled my car from storage and upon inspection noticed that the nut backed all the way out but the housing stopped it (as expected). No issues other than that to be honest.
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Can you grind one of the stage 8 tabs down? I did that on my old turbo. Ground it so it would just slip over the nut
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1 Attachment(s)
On some housings it might be doable. You don't actually need a complete circle of points - as long as you have 7 points the tab will stay in place. I grind every tab I install now - it makes the install take much longer but the end result is far more reliable.
Did this last week. I slide the clip over at the orientation I want, mark the interference point with a Sharpie, and then use a flapwheel to skim the tab down. Takes 2-3 marks per tab, maybe 5 minutes on each one. Much cleaner install. Attachment 232676 |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1401964)
Can you grind one of the stage 8 tabs down? I did that on my old turbo. Ground it so it would just slip over the nut
I've ordered a new exhaust housing to "fix" this issue since I'd prefer to use the track-proven "inconel studs + Stage8 fasteners + Resbond solution". |
Originally Posted by Lokiel
(Post 1401967)
On my early EFR6258, doing this on a couple of the Stage8 tabs would have left the side too thin, between the stud hole and tab's edge, so would have "collapsed"
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1401969)
No such thing, you can grind all the way through so the tab no longer fully circles the nut and the tab will still do its job. As long as there are 7-8 points out of the 12 and you have the circlip installed, the tab isn't going anywhere.
The guys who installed my turbo also assumed that the fastener would be compromised - seemed a reasonable assumption to me too. Wish I knew this BEFORE ordering the new exhaust housing - it really does pay to ask these questions explicitly, hopefully others will read this and know better in future. |
In theory there should be very little load on the tabs. It's really just to keep it from vibrating its way into your engine bay
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Sav, I don't remember seeing this answered but will your "complete solution" include intercooler setups for those of us who want to keep AC & PS? I did see you developing your intercooler setup for Acamus to keep both but were having cooling issues with keeping the stock condenser. Let me know your thoughts.
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IC setup currently in development will accomodate AC/PS, yes. Design work on the IC setups is all complete, just working through the sourcing process now. Precision 350hp cores, solid aluminum pipes on both sides. Hoping to release in the summer.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1405470)
:
Design work on the IC setups is all complete, just working through the sourcing process now. Precision 350hp cores, solid aluminum pipes on both sides. Hoping to release in the summer. Any reason for aluminium pipes vs Silicone Hoses like FM offers? The additional flexibility of silicone is nice - though I needed to use an additional worm clamp on one bend section of mine to preserve the radius of that section. Will you be allowing users to choose between a 2.5" or 2.5->2.75" throttle body elbow? (I assume that you'll use a 90* silicone elbow to the TB since this requires less room than a 90* pipe coupled to the TB via a straight hose - or are you avoiding the 90* silicone hose because they can split?) "The Cobra" was my original DIY coldside intercooler plumbing from the Fab9 350hp intercooler to the Skunk2 TB: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1c19101378.jpg FYI: The AIT sensor was actually installed in the intercooler's coldside tank, not the coldside plumbing. I shortened the 2.75" side of the elbow to ensure that the coldside hose would have plenty of clearance everywhere.. I hated all the worm clamps needed for that implementation so bought a FM coldside hose and modified it: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...580613ed8f.jpg Now I only need 2 silicone hoses and one aluminium J-bend and am happy with it - it barely moves when I shake the aluminium pipe firmly. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1405470)
IC setup currently in development will accomodate AC/PS, yes. Design work on the IC setups is all complete, just working through the sourcing process now. Precision 350hp cores, solid aluminum pipes on both sides. Hoping to release in the summer.
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Originally Posted by Lokiel
(Post 1405585)
"The Cobra" was my original DIY coldside intercooler plumbing from the Fab9 350hp intercooler
I hated all the worm clamps needed for that implementation so bought a FM coldside hose and modified it: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...580613ed8f.jpg Now I only need 2 silicone hoses and one aluminium J-bend and am happy with it - it barely moves when I shake the aluminium pipe firmly. |
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