I had almost zero issues using my FM hotside to FM2 standard IC pipe, I also upgraded to a precision 600hp equivalent size IC and combined with the location of the turbo there is only a small amount of kinking around the turbo outlet. I'm sure with some additional work I can get it perfect, but it would require trimming and I just ran out of time and it's had zero issues performing.
I've been holding out for a heat shield update but will probably just wrap my downpipe instead. |
I can take a couple pictures when I get home if it helps anyone, but I have P/S and no A/C in my NA and had much less trouble fitting the piping than I expected... First time ever doing anything of this sort and it basically took two 90 degree aluminum bends on each side, with 4 total couplers (two 90's on the cold side, a 90 and a 45 on the hot side) in the system. No sawzall, no rubbing, clears power steering (not sure about A/C as I don't have it anymore).
|
This thread is loooooonggggg. I haven't followed it in quite some time. Excuse my request for spoon feeding but I feel like I've earned enough respect in the socal track community to ask stupid questions lol.
Just how long would a stock long block hold up under track usage in the 200-250whp range? Assuming typical track guy ancillary mods are done along side (proper cooling, oil cooler, etc) Asking for a friend of course... |
The answer, like your "friend's" underwear choice, is: depends
|
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1451874)
The answer, like your "friend's" underwear choice, is: depends
|
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1451874)
The answer, like your "friend's" underwear choice, is: depends
|
One missed shift can compromise a stock rod.
|
Originally Posted by EErockMiata
(Post 1451870)
This thread is loooooonggggg. I haven't followed it in quite some time. Excuse my request for spoon feeding but I feel like I've earned enough respect in the socal track community to ask stupid questions lol.
Just how long would a stock long block hold up under track usage in the 200-250whp range? Assuming typical track guy ancillary mods are done along side (proper cooling, oil cooler, etc) Asking for a friend of course... Start at S1 power, and if you decide you want more, then do a rods-only style build with a stock piston, rods, ACL bearings, and ARP mains. You can put that motor together for about $650 in aftermarket parts, plus the cost of a standard shortblock rebuild (hone, fresh rings, fresh oil pump, fresh gaskets). That's what I did in Rover, and that motor is bombproof to the ~280wtq mark. Add pistons and an oil pump to that formula and it's safe to ~400wtq. |
That sounds awesome and I'm stoked that you push the limit with Rover like that!
That said, if you're using stock pistons and fresh rings, wouldn't you expect it to last the same amount of time as a stock motor with regard to oil consumption? Isn't the failure mechanism there just ring blow by due to accelerated wear? (Question was posed by a friend and I'm curious as well!) |
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1451925)
That sounds awesome and I'm stoked that you push the limit with Rover like that!
That said, if you're using stock pistons and fresh rings, wouldn't you expect it to last the same amount of time as a stock motor with regard to oil consumption? Isn't the failure mechanism there just ring blow by due to accelerated wear? (Question was posed by a friend and I'm curious as well!) Thanks in advance. |
I am not really one to answer but I would assume that the life would be the same as a stock new motor.
|
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1451925)
That said, if you're using stock pistons and fresh rings, wouldn't you expect it to last the same amount of time as a stock motor with regard to oil consumption? Isn't the failure mechanism there just ring blow by due to accelerated wear?
|
That makes sense to me.
Thank you kindly sirs. |
EFR Compressor Housing
Hey Sav,
Would you be able to supply the EFR with the 90 degree compressor housing? If so what would be the price difference? Looking at Intercooler Plumbing options. |
Originally Posted by n2o4fun
(Post 1456569)
Hey Sav,
Would you be able to supply the EFR with the 90 degree compressor housing? If so what would be the price difference? Looking at Intercooler Plumbing options. |
Looked at your manifold on the website, Does the listed price include Inconel Studs and stage 8 locking hardware or would those be a seperate purchase? I don't recall that info on the thread so forgive me if i missed it.
|
Can I get the EGR bolt size and pitch? I plan to drill/tap it and route an EGT pyrometer into runner #4.
|
Originally Posted by 503TurboPeru
(Post 1462372)
Looked at your manifold on the website, Does the listed price include Inconel Studs and stage 8 locking hardware or would those be a seperate purchase? I don't recall that info on the thread so forgive me if i missed it.
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot
(Post 1462380)
Can I get the EGR bolt size and pitch? I plan to drill/tap it and route an EGT pyrometer into runner #4.
|
[QUOTE=Savington;1462449]A full Trackspeed stud kit (studs, nuts, Resbond) is standard with every kit.
You and 949 are the best <3 |
[QUOTE=503TurboPeru;1462459]
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1462449)
A full Trackspeed stud kit (studs, nuts, Resbond) is standard with every kit.
You and 949 are the best <3 |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:18 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands