I am getting close to pulling the trigger on a 95 with MS2 and M45 SC. If all goes well and I score the car I'll ditch the SC and pull the trigger on the TS turbo Kit. Already has ID750's some maybe just a fuel pump upgrade and exhaust will round things out.

Not sure which turbo. 6258 or 6758? Initial build will be stock block with 99 head, hotter cams and new junk 2 intake. Want to leave the door open for converting to S1 class so that's something to keep in mind too.

No ETA, but I really want that stuff on the market for Q1/18. We'll see if it happens.

6258, no question.

It's been two years since this kit has been released do you think it will be complete anytime in the next 10 years? :laugh:

you dun messed up son.

I don't think you get how these kits work.
These are gifts from the Godz, delivered to man when they are truly ready for release and only when man has shown his worthiness to receive them by waiting patiently in humble silence.
(at least that's what I told myself while waiting for the manifold and downpipe; it helped a lot and the manifold and downpipe were worth the wait).

I'll never feel inclined to apologize for taking the time to develop stuff properly. The current DIY kit took like 4 years or something to properly develop and produce, and I caught endless shit for that timeline, but I've also lost count of the number of kits I've seen in use on HPDE or road race cars. In 18 months it has gone from unobtanium to the defacto standard for a road race turbo setup. If you want to build a turbocharged Miata and use it on a race track, you call me. If you weren't going to build a turbo car because you knew it wouldn't be reliable, you are now looking at half a dozen reliable cars and seriously rethinking that position.

Emilio's recent GTA-SLB win in Unlimited RWD was powered by a 6258 setup that required no wrenching. I was at ACS last weekend with a trio of Trackspeed-powered S1 cars, all of which spent the entire weekend shrieking through T1/T2 at 138mph+, at full boost in 6th gear for something like 35 seconds every single lap. Aside from an unplugged IAT sensor there were no mechanical issues on all three cars. There were at least five TSE-powered cars at MRLS, and as far as I know there were no mechanical issues on all five cars.

So yeah, it takes a while to make the stuff work. I like to get it right the first time, and if that means a little waiting, then so be it. :)

I have like 6? track days on my TSE kit now. 5 of them at laguna which is extremely hard on equipment. Along with daily driving my car. I've had ZERO issues.




That is all.....

I've got my built motor finishing up in the next month or so, and I'd really like to get this car on the road, shaken down and ready for race season by early Q1. I'm ok with coming up with my own heat shielding solution. I'm just waiting on intercooler piping to be released. I'm not sure how much development is going to go on during the winter time for Andrew since he likes to QC his stuff on the track. I figure it would be best for me to come up with my own intercooler piping solution, considering where we are in relation to the upcoming race season. I went ahead and bought a Precision 350hp IC. The last thing I want to do is chase boost leaks in the intercooler plumbing system and FM's setup seems fool proof. I have seen a few NA's use FM's silicone piping kit with the TSE kit. Has anybody tried this on an NB?

Their nb piping is almost exactly the same, only difference iirc being on the cold side between the two. So you should be fine

Most subscribed to this thread have already seen this but I want to emphasize. The versatility and headroom of this kit is unmatched. We race the TSE EFR 6258 kit in the Maxxis Supermiata Cup series at a regulated 220whp. None of us in the series have had to touch our kits since install. Practice and race all weekend plus HPDE events. My full forged but otherwise stock BP4W doesn't even burn oil.

Load a new ECU map and do this:

Fastest Miata lap ever at Buttonwillow, by several seconds.

Super impressed. Have you posted the details of the build on the motor? I'm curious what components you're using.

Nothing special or exotic. Stock rebuild, blueprinted with forged parts for strength. 10.0:1 compression originally built for NASA PTE. TSE long block would yield the same results.

If you have no power steering, FM's hotside hose will work fine - I assume you got their radiator hose as well? If you do have power steering, like me, you may not be able to get it to work as is out of the box. I couldn't get it through the PS hoses. So I sectioned the hose into 3 pieces, and reclocked those pieces using a couple of joiners to use the MSM route behind the headlight. One straight, one 60deg. A fellow mt.net member (yank) was able to create the two joiners for me out of a single piece of 90deg scrap for a nominal fee. I did use my small air saw to enlarge the hole and then lined it with that door edge guard stuff.

Goes without saying, but you want to use quality clamps and make sure they are tight. I thought mine were, but I was wrong, and popped a couple at 11psi on the dyno.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2259ba4368.png
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3826ac5933.jpg

How the fuck is your 5 speed still alive!?!?!?!

Will this ever be a full kit? I'm not sure TSE can come up with IC routing that will fit every engine bay thats at their level. This kit is all about dead nuts reliability on the track, if they aim to get that they aim to only have 4 silicone couplers in the IC piping.

Current protos have four silicone couplers in the IC piping (turbo, IC in, IC out, TB) and clears A/C and P/S in the NB. As Richard said, getting around the PS on the hotside is a challenge. We are closer than you might think :party:

I have a 6 spd

I thought the reason the FM kit had full silicone lines was because the original BEGI made FM kit had hard pipe and the position of the engine to the tub and the hardlines varied too much for it to fit every car. Or because this isnt targeted to wine and cheesers, there's sawsall involved and almost no one is going to care.

I have no idea why FM did silicone pipes. I have my own theories, but I don't know the specific reasons they opted to use silicone. I do know that I disagree with that decision on the hotside.

I assure you that no sawzall will be required for installation of our IC pipes. Do us all a favor and enunciate your ill-informed assumptions elsewhere, please.

OOOOOOOO GOT EEEEEEM!!!!