dvcn

iTrader: (7)

The spacing allows more air to bypass(go around - path of least resistance) the restrictive intercooler core and increase total airflow through the radiator. It's the same reason the V mount works so well, which is extreme spacing of the stack.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Its nothing like a v-mount because it reduces the efficiency of the first heat exchanger. A V-mount doesn't work "so well" because the radiator and intercooler are so far apart. Its works well because the exchangers don't share the same air, using lower ambient air tempt for both the rad and FMIC. You can stack them and segregate the airflow and get the same effect, like myself, Savington, and the local super-Miata RLTA car.

I'm not posting in this thread anymore because everyone here tried to help by suggesting ducting, and two people denied this logic every time.

dvcn

iTrader: (7)

I didn't mean to be a jerk about it.

Yes, I totally agree with what you are saying about ducting and sealing the airflow path. However, in some cases there is just way too much restriction in that path for things to work properly. That is what happened in this case. Sealing, ducting, scooping did not fix the problem.

You are right, separation is not the same as a V mount provded that the V mount has a divider between the IC and radiator.

In a conventional configuration, the point of the separation is to increase airflow through the radiator core, at the expense of less airflow through the IC.

Again, I totally agree that you can't have air spilling out all over the place. Sealing and ducting is crucial. It's just that sometimes there needs to be more airflow to the radiator than what can go through the IC core.

I'm invested in this only because he is a local and a good guy. I apologize for pushing the point and will get off my high and beaten horse now.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'm not offended.

Look at all this restriction:


noes!!!

he should run the car NA, without the belt, and see if it overheats. The intercooler is not making this car overheat.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

Stephanie said it should be ready Monday. Tests will be run!

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

Put duct tape over those slots; they're not helping you AT ALL

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

It's already been suggested, so we know. Thanks though.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

Alright, I got the Miata back from BEGi last night. I wasn't able to overheat it on the drive home, but then again it was at night. More driving soon! It took 5-6 minutes this morning driving to work for the car to get up to operating temperature.

Thermostat was Removed
Restrictor plate was added to the front Coolant Port which was t-junctioned in to the re-route line
AC Condensor and Radiator Spaced a little further apart
Supercharger Mount Fixed
Supercharger Pulley Machined (had knicks in it)
Intercooler height cut down a couple of inches

chriscar

iTrader: (24)

That aluminum tape is good stuff.

C

bellwilliam

iTrader: (1)

I don't quite understand how your reroute worked. it doesn't look like a standard reroute I've seen.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

She sprung a big leak tonight. Was driving around, parked it to meet a friend and there was white smoke, hissing, and then coolant running from underneath. After letting it cool, topping it off with 1 gallon of water and rolling her down the hill to home I found there was a stream of coolant coming out of the inlet hose to the heater core. This car is becoming a pain in the ***. It was running great all week until this.

I will be ordering a real water temp gauge tomorrow. Any suggestions?

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

I haven't been able to fully enjoy my car since September 2008. I suggest you not take your good luck for granted.

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

I know, I've read your build thread. I am not taking it for granted. I was lucky I found this issue out just up the street from my apartment instead of it popping on the highway. And also that, currently, it's only a coolant leak and not a blown motor.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

I forgot to add a smiley to the end, to identify that it wasn't a mean-spirited comment, here you go:

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

hehe

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

It ended up being an easy fix. Photos attached...

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

[insert some whack **** here about ravyn changing the CAS O-ring because I wasn't paying attention to it being an NB.]

Smustang1234

fooger he has a 2000, no CAS oring.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

look, over there, a hippopotamus!!!

RavynX

iTrader: (3)

So I've returned from SCCA Solo Nationals in my s2000. Was a lot of fun, first time. Anyway, I got the water temp gauge installed today. FINALLY! I drove around and found some interesting readings.

3:30pm. Ambient temp in mid 90's. Cruising at 80mph
A/C is Off. 200* F - 204* F
A/C is On. Within 1-2 miles it was at 220* F and still climbing. I shut the A/C off and evacuated the heat.

8:30pm. Ambient temp is low 80's. Cruising around 65-75mph
A/C is Off. 194* F - 200* F
A/C is On. Stayed at 214* F

9:00pm. Idling in a parking lot with A/C on. Temp got to 240* F and was still climbing; I shut it off then. The stock dash gauge was still sitting at the "nominal" position (just under 12 o'clock).