Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You sure you cant pull stock NA fenders to fit the 245s on 10s? I know you can fit the 275s on 9s under pulled to **** fenders.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

This. It's not stretched, I wouldn't want any less wheel width with a 245 Hoosier.

+25mm is the sweet spot. There are no 10" Advantis. The Jongbloed came in two offsets so there are *some* +25mm out there, which is the same as the 6ULs. 6UL is obviously the best/lightest choice. The 15x10 6UL hasn't been available for a couple years now but they are coming back, the famine is almost over.

I don't think it can be done in the rear. Front fender is single-layer sheet metal so that can be pulled/stretched rather ridiculously, but rear would take massive work to get to fit. I have the slimmer autokonexion flare in the rear only (can't remember if that is called their version 1 or 2 at the moment), and here's how it looks with 15x10 and 245:



Fronts are pulled dramatically, made easier because the fender is cut, but I believe you can still stretch an un-cut front fender to clear, but it's be a lot of work:



Might try CarbonMiata, they have small flares similar to what I have from autokonexion in the rear of my car, but likely a lot faster turn around from them. Beware "widebody" stuff, most of that stuff is unnecessarily too wide and designed for very low offset show wheels.

If you can't find 10" wheels on the second-hand market right now, my suggestion is get a set of 9's and run 225's for your first few events and wait out the last few months until 15x10 6ULs are back, then rejoice.

-Ryan

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

The rear is way easier to pull than the front. Especially if you use the hammer. The fronts flex a lot and spring back, the rears stay.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Perhaps enough hammering could do it, I can't say from personal experience as I already had the flares, but if I were doing it again and had the choice, I'd go with the small flare again. Less pain in the ***, cleaner finished appearance (I started caring more once I had sponsors and the car was my business card), will clear a 275 (on appropriate wheel size) if you decide to step it up even more later.

bbundy

I have the autokonexion small flares. barely clear both front and rear my 275/35/15 on 15X11" et 19.05mm but I think its perfect. They clear the 245/40/15's on 15X10 et 25 with room to spare. I run my 15X10 6UL's with 5mm spacers though to keep the track width the same as my autocross setup. never ran the 245's without flares as I already flared it to run the 275's.

with my camber setting there is no room to go further inboard than that without unusable amounts of rubbing on the front near the shock top or on the rear inside of the fender well.

d k

iTrader: (4)

275's on a 2000 lb car.....


What the **** have I got myself into??

SchmoozerJoe

iTrader: (2)

#allofit

dasting

It's worth noting that although this is possible, for it to not rub on the inside, you need monster truck ride height, and then on stock components, you don't have anywhere close to as much camber as you really want. 225s on 9s probably put more rubber to the ground than 275s on 9s, though I haven't specifically measured back to back.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

IDK, I did it with 4" pinchweld heights and 15x9 6uls, 6mm spacer up front required. I didnt do it under the stock front fenders because I couldnt get them to pull that far, they just flexed out 6 inches with the fender roller and snapped back into place. But theres a couple people on miata.net that have and another local that has as well. The rears were pulled to the limit that I could get with the fender roller without knocking the car off the jackstands, but I know you can get more than that with careful application of a sledge hammer. It is a whole bunch easier to just but out the cutoff wheel or plasma cutter and cut the fenders though.

d k

iTrader: (4)

Where is a good source of small flares then?

mx5-kiwi

The million dollar question!

dasting

6ULs, 6mm front spacer, sledgehammer.. check. I couldn't ever get it how I wanted. The most front camber I ever got was -2.2* I think. Tore up the shoulders. Maybe I could have gone a bit lower with stiffer springs (had 675/350), but I never got to that point. I just stuck with 225s. Well, 205s now with road racing, so stopped caring.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I tore up the front shoulders on my first few sets of 275s when I was trying to solider along with stock rubber bushings. Poly solved that for the most part. 2.8° of camber still isnt enough.

dasting

Sounds about right. I run 3.3 ish now and I'm happy. Skinny 205s though. Still on 9s

1999NB

<4" pinch weld height and 3.3-3.5 front camber and rolled fenders. Neither front or rear is pulled like crazy, but we spent decent time rolling and yanking.

I run:
245 Rc1 on 15x10 +25 6ULs that rub just a touch (in the rear) at the top under heavy compression (I.e. Bottom of the corkscrew), but otherwise fine.

245 Hoho on 15x10 +25 Jongbloeds that rub like mad in the front. They rub the front spring as well as the on the top. I added a 10mm spacer and now rub the fender to all hell. 3-5mm may be the sweet spot.

Hoho 225s on 9.5s may be equally as good for my application, but I only see light 9 and 10, no 9.5...

j_man

You can. 245 on 10s is easy.
With a good pull NA even fits 275 A7 on 10s with only minor rubbing (pictures attached)

mx5-kiwi

so a middle of the road roll and pull would fit 245 maxxis on 9's?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

It depends on the car. There was no way I was fitting them on my car without cutting. Rear fenders didnt want to move more with the eastwood roller or the 10lb sledge, front fenders just flexed around with the eastwood and sprung back.

k24madness

iTrader: (6)

The trick on the rear is grinding and cutting the little horizontal metal. Once I did that it all started to move. It's that little piece near the rear bumper and somewhere in the front half or the arc. Then I was able to put tension on it with the eastwood roller and pound up on each side with the mini sledge. It's the inner wheel well that's holding the rear back. Work it up slowly back and forth on each side of the fender roller tool and it will go.

The front is a floppy noodle that I could never get anywhere with. I think a new approach is needed. Maybe english wheel off the car or using a double/tripple fender rollers at the same time?

1999NB

Following up to my post:
225 Hoho on 10s?

205 Hoho section width is 8.5" and the masses say to put it on a 9" wheel
245 Hoho section width is 10" and the masses say to put it on a 10" wheel
225 Hoho section width is 9.3" and the masses say to put it on a 9" wheel

Is the 0.2" delta of the 'stretch' of the 225 on 10 compared to 205 on 9 that much of a . . . 'stretch' for use? I assume a 9.5 would be 'ideal', but given the absence of a 9.5, why is a 9" (0.3" 'undersized') better than the 10" given the data above?