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Old 11-06-2013, 01:07 PM   #41
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I was in the same boat as you a few months ago. I took a chance on the StopTech's, and they've greatly exceeded my expectations. They feel exactly the same, hot or cold. My current setup is 10psi/185RWHP driving intermediate-level HPDE on 205/50-15 Rivals with OEM 1.8 brakes. I'm faster than the Mustangs and Corvettes in my group. These will work just fine for your first track day.
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Old 11-06-2013, 02:33 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
The StopTech's superseded the ULT's. They are para-aramid, more similar to Carbotechs than ULT's.
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I was in the same boat as you a few months ago. I took a chance on the StopTech's, and they've greatly exceeded my expectations. They feel exactly the same, hot or cold. My current setup is 10psi/185RWHP driving intermediate-level HPDE on 205/50-15 Rivals with OEM 1.8 brakes. I'm faster than the Mustangs and Corvettes in my group. These will work just fine for your first track day.
Last time I bought Axxis Ultimates they had been superseded/rebranded PBR ULT. I was unaware StopTech "Street Performance" was the new name on these, unless I'm reading that wrong? I had pretty good luck with the ULT for dual use, I'd buy them again. I wonder if StopTech will drop these in the Wilwood 7112 pattern...

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And . . . FRESH brake fluid. I run DOT4.
Good lord ^^ this. I'm running ATE SuperBlue atm. Brake fluid becomes rather important when you start running track days, it really shouldn't be overlooked. Flush it often, it does make a difference.
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Old 11-06-2013, 03:34 PM   #43
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I was unaware StopTech "Street Performance" was the new name on these, unless I'm reading that wrong?
I'm getting this from other forum scuttlebutt, so I have no idea if it's true and shouldn't have repeated it. It's hard to keep up with all of the company mergers/acquisition/rebranding going on all the time. If you go to the Axxis website, it gives a link to StopTech as a retailer, but nothing on StopTech's website mentions Axxis or Ultimate -- so there "could" be rebranding going on.

One thing I can say for sure is that I have about 15 track hours and a few thousand street miles with the StopTechs and have no complaints.

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I wonder if StopTech will drop these in the Wilwood 7112 pattern...
When I'm at the track, I see StopTech all over the place on Corvettes and other non-Miatas. It seems we are not the corporate target. StopTech markets their own calipers and BBK's and their dedicated race pads seem tailored to those. Don't know if they would fit Wilwoods. If their "Street" pad is any indication, their race pads are probably really good.

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Brake fluid becomes rather important when you start running track days, it really shouldn't be overlooked. Flush it often, it does make a difference.
Most brake "fade" reported by track novices is actually boiling of contaminated fluid.

Last edited by hornetball; 11-06-2013 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:54 PM   #44
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Appreciate all the comments guys, I will be sure to change the fluid, will get some superblue if it's in the budget.

Will go with the Centric(StopTech) pads for the mean time, get better track pads for the next season.

However one question, on Miata.net() a thread there stated that the sport brakes require the sport front brake lines. Can anyone verify this? I'd love to just buy some stainless braided lines and get it over with but that's another $100
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:57 AM   #45
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Another question for you guys, found a sport brake booster, but need to egt a master cylinder.

What would you suggest? Autozone has the new (Fenco) ms for $60, new (Centric) for $75 on rockauto, and amazon has the reman (Cardon) for $75
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:39 AM   #46
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Too add to the pot, hope you guys have insight on this
Some interesting brake information (tech!) - MX-5 Miata Forum

The booster I will be getting is Sport with ABS, as that states the booster ratio is 9.7:1, were as the msm and non abs sport boosters are 6.4:1

Would using a smaller master cylinder reduce the boosters ratio? Bring the feeling closer to the 6.4:1 of the msm and sport non abs?
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:24 AM   #47
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Wow. All these confusing questions. Personally, I like the 1.8 brakes with good pads and fluid. Common/effective/inexpensive/easy to maintain. If/when I need to upgrade (I'll know when it's time -- I'm not there yet), I'll be calling Andrew or Emilio and going with their recommendations.

As for the master cylinder . . . which one comes with the lifetime warranty? They're pretty simple/hard to screw up. I wouldn't fear the zone on that one. Of course, when you're doing all this mixing and matching things get more complicated.

I suspect once you get on track you'll realize that you should have kept it simple and put the emphasis on the nut behind the wheel.

$.02
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:34 PM   #48
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Wow. All these confusing questions. Personally, I like the 1.8 brakes with good pads and fluid. Common/effective/inexpensive/easy to maintain. If/when I need to upgrade (I'll know when it's time -- I'm not there yet), I'll be calling Andrew or Emilio and going with their recommendations.

As for the master cylinder . . . which one comes with the lifetime warranty? They're pretty simple/hard to screw up. I wouldn't fear the zone on that one. Of course, when you're doing all this mixing and matching things get more complicated.

I suspect once you get on track you'll realize that you should have kept it simple and put the emphasis on the nut behind the wheel.

$.02
+1. Brakes are about the last thing you want to be uncertain about on track...especially now we are discussing booster+master cylinder changes which will have an effect on pedal feel.

Too much for first time out ever if you ask me...

I would stick with 1.8 master/booster since you are still using 1.8 calipers. Or do a lot of reading on pedal feel with sport master/booster on 1.8 calipers. You will want to make sure you are not going to have too hard of a pedal if you drop the booster.
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Old 11-07-2013, 02:49 PM   #49
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Too much for first time out ever if you ask me...
+1

While you are just starting out, there is nothing "wrong" with your braking system that needs to be "fixed" at this point. Don't overthink it. Don't fall into the "I need to spend more money" trap. Take care of all your maintenance items you need to catch up on first. Get new rotors and something better than DD pads and flush the hell out of your system with some good high temp (Dot 4/5, ATE, whatever) and just go out and have fun and learn.

Once you get to the point where you can destroy a set of pads/rotors in one or two events, THEN start looking at upgrades. Not for "better" braking but for longevity.
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Old 11-07-2013, 03:09 PM   #50
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Uhhhh . . . NOT DOT5. EO didn't really mean that. LOL.
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Old 11-07-2013, 03:21 PM   #51
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Listen to these guys and K.I.S.S.

The only reason I did all the brake stuff before my 1st track day was previous track experience on 2 wheels.

As a beginner on street tires, fresh fluid is likely all you need.
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Old 11-07-2013, 03:36 PM   #52
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Uhhhh . . . NOT DOT5. EO didn't really mean that. LOL.
Well yeah, don't use it if you don't plan to bother with flushing your DOT 3/4 system properly.

DOT 5 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Using DOT 5 in a DOT 3 or DOT 4 system without proper flushing will cause damage to the seals and cause brake failure
But you are right, I probably shouldn't have mentioned DOT 5 in this context.

Just order ATE from Trackspeed or RBF600 from 949 and flush your old **** fluid out with a vengeance.

Last edited by EO2K; 11-07-2013 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 11-07-2013, 03:39 PM   #53
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Don't use DOT5 at all.

Repeat: Don't use DOT5 at all.

One more time just in case...

Don't use DOT5 at all.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:58 PM   #54
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Here is my problem, I have a 1.6 Miata with a 1.8l. Not much more power but enough, also plans for more in the near future.

As my brakes are now, I have shitty pads and shitty rotors that I got on the car. On the street I must brake early and I follow at much greater distances because my braking is very poor. Fresh wilwood fluid.

I have already bought the sport calipers, brackets, just need to buy the rotors and pads which I will be doing Friday. Bought the booster last night, should be here early to mid next week. The only link now is the master cylinder, thus the question I asked, my master is new but not sure how it will work with the new booster.

MY philosophy(sort of), shitty 1.6 brakes that will deffinetly need to be replaced in the near future. Why waste money on them when I can upgrade now and be much better off.

I do appreciate the help and insight on everything....
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:35 PM   #55
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Don't use DOT5 at all.

Repeat: Don't use DOT5 at all.

One more time just in case...

Don't use DOT5 at all.
Not sure what that means...did you say...Upgrade my brake booster if I use DOT5?
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:50 PM   #56
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Directions unclear: anus full of DOT 5
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Old 11-08-2013, 12:18 PM   #57
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Oh, I get it. For some reason I though you had a 94+ car.

If you're doing sport brakes, I would try to do it all the way -- install the system like Mazda designed it without mixing/matching. Sounds like the only part you're missing now is the MC, and I would try to get the correctly matching MC. Caveat that I have no direct, personal experience with the sport brakes.

As for DOT5, avoid silicone in breasts and brakes.
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Old 11-08-2013, 12:29 PM   #58
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Worthwhile point, use a Sport booster, but get a NON-ABS Master cylinder.

I've got an unsightly mess of junk under my hood after picking up a used ABS sport master cylinder. I'm going to live with it for now, because I'll eventually go manual with dual master cylinders.
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:20 PM   #59
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Sport Master Cylinder Rockauto NC72-43-400B 89.79 Dorman #: M630246
Sport Brake Booster Mazdaspeed N067-43-800A 164.59
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:24 PM   #60
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NA's all used a 7/8" bore master cylinder
NB's all used a 15/16" more master cylinder

The normal NB and sport WITH abs have a greater booster ratio, which makes the pedal easier to push, moves easier with less effort.

The sport non abs and msm used a booster with a smaller ratio, less than the other one but greater than the na boosters.

Using a smaller master with a greater booster ratio isn't going to do what I want it too really. It would require less force and input much greater pressure.

So I need to use the 15/16" master, I will use the booster I already bought for now, it should make the brakes feel like a stock NB's brakes. Pedal feel anyhow, when I find another booster I will buy it.
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