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car shaking on track under hard cornering. halp me lrn how 2 bleed breaks!

Old Jun 12, 2017 | 03:53 PM
  #41  
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As a single data point, I had one left rear Hoosier that had a flat spot on it that I could only really feel when I was turning right and loading it up. Going straight or turning left did not reveal the defect. And since it was in the rear I didn't feel it in the steering wheel. This is the reason I brought it up.
Old Jun 12, 2017 | 03:55 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
As a single data point, I had one left rear Hoosier that had a flat spot on it that I could only really feel when I was turning right and loading it up. Going straight or turning left did not reveal the defect. And since it was in the rear I didn't feel it in the steering wheel. This is the reason I brought it up.
i've done the same on a set of toyo rr. it wasn't bad until i loaded the tire. oh boy did you notice it when the tire was loaded.
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Originally Posted by Mobius
Hopefully so, but let's hope it's never necessary. Experiencing your safety gear in action is ... not optimal.
Old Jun 12, 2017 | 03:58 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by codrus
FWIW, I've had a new hub installed by a dealer that went bad within 100 miles of street driving.

--Ian

I had one of the fancy hubs with pre-installed ARP studs fail in 1 track day......two drivers though. We skipped the last session of the day because of the amount of play in the wheel.
Old Jun 12, 2017 | 05:42 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Darbymx5
dang, that's really unfortunate. I wonder what could cause such premature failure? I'll definitely check mine. I also had mine professionally installed - at an outrageous price none the less. $450 for installed rear wheel bearings, and helping me repack the front. I should have just bought blueprinted hubs with bearings already installed at that price.
This was an OEM factory hub installed at a Mazda dealer to replace a hub that had been damaged by a (different) shop pressing the wrong-size stud into it. This was a decade ago, before any of the repacking/blueprinting/etc stuff was known. 100 miles of street driving later it was making noise -- most likely it was simply a manufacturing defect. The dealer swapped it again at no charge.

If the car has ABS (I may have asked this on the FB thread, but don't remember the answer if so) then that can be tricky to bleed if you managed to get air into it. There's a procedure in the factory manual to cycle the ABS for test purposes, doing this a few times while bleeding can help.

On my car, when I swapped the rear calipers out for the FM powerlites, no amount of bleeding would get a decent pedal. Eventually I upgraded it to a 1" master cylinder out of a 929, which did finally fix the problem.

--Ian
Old Jun 12, 2017 | 08:05 PM
  #45  
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I know, I know- it's not about the brakes, but still....
Originally Posted by Darbymx5
yes I bled all 4 bleeder valves. [...]
I just realized that I read this earlier. Is that all 4 bleeders on each caliper? If so, that may be your problem. You're not supposed to open the lower bleeders. Air could get in that way. They only have lower bleeders, so they don't have to make two different calipers.
Old Jun 12, 2017 | 09:36 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by stefanst
I just realized that I read this earlier. Is that all 4 bleeders on each caliper? If so, that may be your problem. You're not supposed to open the lower bleeders. Air could get in that way. They only have lower bleeders, so they don't have to make two different calipers.
While this is true, it's worth noting that if you're flushing the system, you won't get all of the old fluid out without opening the lower bleeders. I put a couple gallons of the cheap fluid through my car when troubleshooting a bad pedal, and at one point towards the end tried bleeding the lower screws in desperation. I was surprised to get blue ATE fluid out of them, long after it had been purged from everywhere else in the system.

--Ian
Old Jun 12, 2017 | 10:57 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Darbymx5
shouldn't be, the tires are pretty new and only have one auto x on them. plus my brakes wont lock up even if I wanted to because wilwoods
I just bought a turbo'd Miata, put new tires on it, swapped on my sons trackspeed BBK (a semi crushed his car)....The next day a deer jumped out in front of me and I flat spotted 2 brand new 225 Rivals at somewhere near 130-140 mph....With G-loc street pads. Nothing wrong with the stopping power of Wilwoods...FFS!
If you are too stupid to bleed your brakes properly, you need to take your car to somebody that knows what they are doing, before you kill yourself...or somebody else!


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