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Old 03-26-2015, 11:18 PM   #21
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I cut and welded the hose that went to the heater core. It still does but.moves up.

I would love to just have 1 hose and ideally a single outlet without having to plug anything
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Old 03-27-2015, 12:45 AM   #22
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Single outlet from where? You are not understanding everyone. It is really simple. Looking at the firewall, the two heater hose flow paths go like this. Left hose: motor to heater core. Right hose: heater core to mixing manifold. Just like you have it even though you have slightly changed things. Now dissconnect both of the heater hoses, remove your cut and welded steel "hose". Now take a 3 ft piece of 5/8 hose and attach it to where the LEFT heater hose connected to the motor. the other end HAS TO connect to the steel tube which HAS to connect to the mixing manifold. UNLESS you thread tap the hole that the steel tube inserts into and seals by an o-ring. You have no other choice but to keep the steel tube if you cant manage to have the hole threaded, or weld a 5/8 aluminum tube in the hole.
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:48 AM   #23
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Take the metal tube that is in the way and relocate it below the exhaust manifold and below the mixing manifold (water pump inlet) since you have no A/C compressor in the way. As mentioned, it may benefit you to add a moderate restrictor to that line.

Just like in The Wizard of Oz, you'll find out in the end you already have everything you need.
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Old 03-29-2015, 12:16 PM   #24
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Hello all.
I would like some imput on my reroute. Not specificly a race car (solo and street) but it's all delete so kinda fits here. It's a 1.6 engine. Heater and idle control delete. I'm using a 180' super stant on the back of the engine with a 3/16" hole drilled in it for flow, using the stock front neck ( Ya I have a lot of room back there). Turbo coolant lines are running from the water pump inlet to the top/back of the stock neck where the fan thermostat used to be. Front neck is blocked off. The car warms up fine when idling but temps drop right off when on the move. There have not been any 'warm days here yet ( above 10'c) so may be a non issue once it warms up but does anyone see any issues with flow with my setup? Thank you.
Detail of the back of the engine
To the radiator. Turbo coolant line To the back of the neck. Other turbo line to be pump inlet.
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Coolant Reroute for Race car-image_zpsenqj1i9p.jpg   Coolant Reroute for Race car-image_zpsfyuy5v4v.jpg   Coolant Reroute for Race car-image_zpslr4psjtj.jpg   Coolant Reroute for Race car-image_zps3rgmgves.jpg  
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Old 03-29-2015, 04:02 PM   #25
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Sidebar : I am in the market for a Lotus Seven copy.
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Old 03-29-2015, 04:27 PM   #26
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Sixshotter, if you haven't already check the classified section on my links. Usually a couple for sale in various states of completion. Or get exactly what you want by building your own!
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Old 03-30-2015, 11:00 AM   #27
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Quote:
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Sidebar : I am in the market for a Lotus Seven copy.
I sold an R1 based version a few months ago.. where were you then??

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Old 03-30-2015, 11:37 AM   #28
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First major issue, you're going to have giant heat problems with that downpipe. You cannot make a 90 degree turn with an angle like that, exhaust gas does not like that.

From other member's experience, it'll turn red hot fairly quickly. Replace it with a smooth curved piece of pipe, and it'll run much cooler.

And this isn't like a "small" heat issue. This is like a "fix before anything but idling" issue.

I say this only because your oil-feed-clamped-on-to-a-brake-line is fairly close to the DP area, and is a recipe for an explosion of the fiery type.

Otherwise your reroute is of sound design.
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Old 03-30-2015, 11:51 AM   #29
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Quote:
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First major issue, you're going to have giant heat problems with that downpipe. You cannot make a 90 degree turn with an angle like that, exhaust gas does not like that.

From other member's experience, it'll turn red hot fairly quickly. Replace it with a smooth curved piece of pipe, and it'll run much cooler.

And this isn't like a "small" heat issue. This is like a "fix before anything but idling" issue.

I say this only because your oil-feed-clamped-on-to-a-brake-line is fairly close to the DP area, and is a recipe for an explosion of the fiery type.

Otherwise your reroute is of sound design.
+1 Protecting everything that is heat sensitive from the turbine and downpipe is job #1.

re: Sevens,
I prefer something with a Miata drivetrain to take advantage of parts and knowledge I already have. But I'm flexible. I don't trust my welding enough to try building one.
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:07 PM   #30
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Gentlemen thanks for the keen observations. I will get some shielding on there right away. Fire is bad. Do you think adding a curved deflector inside the down pipe would work to smooth the flow. It's a 3" from an STI so shouldn't impede flow too much. Think I'll point my gopro down there and see how hot it's getting. Again thank you Appretiate the input.

Oh, I put the car on ramps and burped the coolant system. Had a bit of air in there. Temps are more stable now.
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:01 PM   #31
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You sure? That really looks like a pipe, cut at a 45* angle, twisted 180*, then rewelded. Big no no.
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:59 PM   #32
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Yes, your correct. It WAS an eBay downpipe that I cut (at the weld) flipped and rewelded. Figure that's a big fail, Eh.
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:13 PM   #33
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Do you expect the weld to fail, or blow a hole in the pipe?
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:09 PM   #34
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Gasses will make a great big glowing red area right on the outside of that turn. The red will also then migrate away and the whole pipe will be red. It isn't disaster, but you should plan for it and wrap the pipe and shield it right there to prevent additional trouble. It will boil your brake fluid and melt the plastic brake reservoir. It will also melt throttle cables, speedo cables, heater hoses, wires, etc. anyway, even without the bend so it all needs shielding.
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:25 PM   #35
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Thanks, I've wrapped the bottom half of the pipe (below the v band you can't see) but got sidetracked with drivng the car (had been driving without the hood, so much ventation). But I'll get that finished up.
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Old 10-27-2015, 10:21 PM   #36
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Just looked at this again

I never saw the pictures before ironically.

Based on the location of your water supply- isn't that on the "closed" side of the thermostat? Ie when it's closed it would flow zero water?

By now I figure you would have tried it..

Is your chassis a 422? I don't have near that much space and I'm extremely jealous!
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Old 10-27-2015, 11:43 PM   #37
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Oh tried it I have. I've driven the s**t out of the all summer. 17+ autox events (most with codrivers) including Spring Nats in Lincoln (oh so under prepared but a blast) Some hot lapping. And 5000km or so on The street. Car hasn't missed a beat and have had no overheating issues.
I'm a little slow but if I understand your question- I assume you are referring to flow to/from the turbo. I have one coolant line before the pump routed to the turbo and from there yes it runs to the closed side of the thermostat witch is the return to the radiator. So I would expect the to act as a by pass. And As I wasn't 100% sure of the flow characteristics I added the small hole in the thermostat to ensure some flow at all times.
And I built a book frame. The location of my brake and clutch along with my steering shaft drove me to build my manifold and place the turbo low and close to the block.
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Old 10-28-2015, 12:01 AM   #38
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Awesome to hear!

I have a bunch of parts collecting to do a turbo install soon. Just waiting for Monday to start mocking up the manifold and seeing how far forward and under I can get the turbo to mount based on the same challenges!
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