custom gauge set up
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So you're just doing a bore and hone? Are you going to have the crank ground and/or balanced or anything like that?
I'll just need your:
Pistons
Rings
Rods
Crank
Main Studs
OPGs and an oil pump if you decide to go that route. You can probably handle the OPGs yourself though if you wanted.
I can figure out the bearings and order oversized if necessary. If you're not getting any crank work done then it probably wont be though. I didn't have to for mine.
I love engine building. Probably my favorite thing to do.
I'll just need your:
Pistons
Rings
Rods
Crank
Main Studs
OPGs and an oil pump if you decide to go that route. You can probably handle the OPGs yourself though if you wanted.
I can figure out the bearings and order oversized if necessary. If you're not getting any crank work done then it probably wont be though. I didn't have to for mine.
I love engine building. Probably my favorite thing to do.
I think I am going to have the crank balanced as well... I'll bring my head down as well and we can just put the whole thing together and ready to be dropped in.
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To be honest, I've never used them personally for this very reason. I was going to on my last DSM, but I was talked out of it by my machine shop since I had already bought bearings and whatnot.
It seems to be a 50/50 split. I agree with you that it doesn't necessarily make sense 100%, but if it is absolutely overkill, and 50% of engine builders say that a bearing failure could end up being the result, those aren't good enough odds for me.
If I had unlimited cash flow, I'd do it anyway since I've never seen definitive results, just opinions.
It seems to be a 50/50 split. I agree with you that it doesn't necessarily make sense 100%, but if it is absolutely overkill, and 50% of engine builders say that a bearing failure could end up being the result, those aren't good enough odds for me.
If I had unlimited cash flow, I'd do it anyway since I've never seen definitive results, just opinions.
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In my build, just finished, I researched all the same stuff. ARP bolts for the connecting rods, ARP head studs, stock mains. Seems to be the typical configuration around here.
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kday has a nice setup, although you do need to know a little programming. I'm working on a similar setup that should be done in a bit...
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/wow-no-wonder-i-get-tailgated-so-much-miata-33623/
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/wow-no-wonder-i-get-tailgated-so-much-miata-33623/
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Elite Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,642
Total Cats: 36
From: Colorado
That engine was given a break-in just as described in another thread active on here. With the other stuff I was doing at the time, it got an oil change about every 1000 miles, and it also got one after the initial few minutes of running and another after the break-in. It had awesome oil pressure from the brand new pump and front case. It ran wonderfully cool with the brand new water pump, removed AC, etc.
It also ate its thrust bearing in about 8K miles. I did not measure the actual end play, but eyeballing it I would say maybe 1/4. Yes. Inches. I am guessing no alignment check on the awesome new mains. Stock mains and alignment check FTW. The new shortblock got that, and it is now powering my freinds Talon after doing great in my old car.
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Just a data point, but the single biggest screw-up in my entire car-life was related to this. I (stupidly) ordered a G4CS (4G64) 6 bolt shortblock from a company that shall remain nameless (they are not in here or in the Miata scene at all). I specifically specified stock mains and ARP rod bolts. I got ARP mains. Hey, cool, freebee!
That engine was given a break-in just as described in another thread active on here. With the other stuff I was doing at the time, it got an oil change about every 1000 miles, and it also got one after the initial few minutes of running and another after the break-in. It had awesome oil pressure from the brand new pump and front case. It ran wonderfully cool with the brand new water pump, removed AC, etc.
It also ate its thrust bearing in about 8K miles. I did not measure the actual end play, but eyeballing it I would say maybe 1/4. Yes. Inches. I am guessing no alignment check on the awesome new mains. Stock mains and alignment check FTW. The new shortblock got that, and it is now powering my freinds Talon after doing great in my old car.
That engine was given a break-in just as described in another thread active on here. With the other stuff I was doing at the time, it got an oil change about every 1000 miles, and it also got one after the initial few minutes of running and another after the break-in. It had awesome oil pressure from the brand new pump and front case. It ran wonderfully cool with the brand new water pump, removed AC, etc.
It also ate its thrust bearing in about 8K miles. I did not measure the actual end play, but eyeballing it I would say maybe 1/4. Yes. Inches. I am guessing no alignment check on the awesome new mains. Stock mains and alignment check FTW. The new shortblock got that, and it is now powering my freinds Talon after doing great in my old car.
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I leave this thread for a few days and it goes from gauges to engine rebuilds to DSMs if I'm not mistaken?
Where's the OP and his prototype gauge setup? I figured it'd be done by now.
Where's the OP and his prototype gauge setup? I figured it'd be done by now.
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Newb
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3
Total Cats: 0
why dont you try getting this to work with your car. their pretty cheap.
http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 574
From: Fake Virginia
why dont you try getting this to work with your car. their pretty cheap.
http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
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why dont you try getting this to work with your car. their pretty cheap.
http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
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