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Old 05-28-2010, 02:20 PM   #61
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Good logic. I'm going to continue to skip out on them in my builds til I hear of someone failing the stock bolts.
When we start making 500+ ft lbs of torque regularly, start shopping
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Old 05-28-2010, 02:23 PM   #62
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So you're just doing a bore and hone? Are you going to have the crank ground and/or balanced or anything like that?

I'll just need your:
Pistons
Rings
Rods
Crank
Main Studs
OPGs and an oil pump if you decide to go that route. You can probably handle the OPGs yourself though if you wanted.

I can figure out the bearings and order oversized if necessary. If you're not getting any crank work done then it probably wont be though. I didn't have to for mine.

I love engine building. Probably my favorite thing to do.
I can handle the oil pan... I can realistically handle an engine build as well, but I am limited on space in my garage right now and my stand is holding my RX7's 13B right now.

I think I am going to have the crank balanced as well... I'll bring my head down as well and we can just put the whole thing together and ready to be dropped in.
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Old 05-28-2010, 02:24 PM   #63
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To be honest, I've never used them personally for this very reason. I was going to on my last DSM, but I was talked out of it by my machine shop since I had already bought bearings and whatnot.

It seems to be a 50/50 split. I agree with you that it doesn't necessarily make sense 100%, but if it is absolutely overkill, and 50% of engine builders say that a bearing failure could end up being the result, those aren't good enough odds for me.

If I had unlimited cash flow, I'd do it anyway since I've never seen definitive results, just opinions.
so stock bolts it is. but new ones. I AM going to get ARP head studs though. And a cometic head gasket.
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Old 05-28-2010, 03:07 PM   #64
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so stock bolts it is. but new ones. I AM going to get ARP head studs though. And a cometic head gasket.
Head studs are smart, definitely. I love having head studs, makes aligning the head with the block super easy.
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Old 05-29-2010, 11:59 AM   #65
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In my build, just finished, I researched all the same stuff. ARP bolts for the connecting rods, ARP head studs, stock mains. Seems to be the typical configuration around here.
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Old 05-29-2010, 07:57 PM   #66
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kday has a nice setup, although you do need to know a little programming. I'm working on a similar setup that should be done in a bit...

https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/wow-no-wonder-i-get-tailgated-so-much-miata-33623/
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Old 06-01-2010, 02:25 AM   #67
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I've decided I want one of these.

http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/design/dashsystem/
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:58 AM   #68
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That display is pretty awesome. If I hadn't just gotten some custom gauge faces done, this would probably be on my to-do list.
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:17 AM   #69
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2 weeks ago? I spend a lot of time looking at my wideband on track.
+1 I have watched mine too on the track. It is helpful. In my case my engine was acting up and having the WB02 helped me diagnose the problem quickly.
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Old 06-01-2010, 04:05 PM   #70
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I remember having this discussion with you at Jason's house. While I agree with you that studs may be overkill, i've never heard of anyone having to bore the caps but I've never used them personally.
Just a data point, but the single biggest screw-up in my entire car-life was related to this. I (stupidly) ordered a G4CS (4G64) 6 bolt shortblock from a company that shall remain nameless (they are not in here or in the Miata scene at all). I specifically specified stock mains and ARP rod bolts. I got ARP mains. Hey, cool, freebee!

That engine was given a break-in just as described in another thread active on here. With the other stuff I was doing at the time, it got an oil change about every 1000 miles, and it also got one after the initial few minutes of running and another after the break-in. It had awesome oil pressure from the brand new pump and front case. It ran wonderfully cool with the brand new water pump, removed AC, etc.

It also ate its thrust bearing in about 8K miles. I did not measure the actual end play, but eyeballing it I would say maybe 1/4. Yes. Inches. I am guessing no alignment check on the awesome new mains. Stock mains and alignment check FTW. The new shortblock got that, and it is now powering my freinds Talon after doing great in my old car.
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Old 06-01-2010, 04:13 PM   #71
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Just a data point, but the single biggest screw-up in my entire car-life was related to this. I (stupidly) ordered a G4CS (4G64) 6 bolt shortblock from a company that shall remain nameless (they are not in here or in the Miata scene at all). I specifically specified stock mains and ARP rod bolts. I got ARP mains. Hey, cool, freebee!

That engine was given a break-in just as described in another thread active on here. With the other stuff I was doing at the time, it got an oil change about every 1000 miles, and it also got one after the initial few minutes of running and another after the break-in. It had awesome oil pressure from the brand new pump and front case. It ran wonderfully cool with the brand new water pump, removed AC, etc.

It also ate its thrust bearing in about 8K miles. I did not measure the actual end play, but eyeballing it I would say maybe 1/4. Yes. Inches. I am guessing no alignment check on the awesome new mains. Stock mains and alignment check FTW. The new shortblock got that, and it is now powering my freinds Talon after doing great in my old car.
Just taking a shot in the dark here. SBR?
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Old 06-01-2010, 05:04 PM   #72
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I leave this thread for a few days and it goes from gauges to engine rebuilds to DSMs if I'm not mistaken?

Where's the OP and his prototype gauge setup? I figured it'd be done by now.
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:57 PM   #73
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At least it has not moved to a picture of a bike with a ***** for a seat.

Good point though. How about it OP?
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Old 06-02-2010, 12:32 AM   #74
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Working on it. Got a few things to deal with car related right now... this is not one of the front runners.

Gotta fix a few things before the next track day in a week.
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:05 PM   #75
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why dont you try getting this to work with your car. their pretty cheap.

http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:57 PM   #76
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why dont you try getting this to work with your car. their pretty cheap.

http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
You're like Jesus coming out of nowhere and being our savior!
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:26 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by swales View Post
why dont you try getting this to work with your car. their pretty cheap.

http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
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You're like Jesus coming out of nowhere and being our savior!
And we all know what happened to Jesus...He got nailed by a bunch of dudes.
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:42 PM   #78
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You're like Jesus coming out of nowhere and being our savior!
+1 based on a quick look that is potentially full of win. Cool.
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:21 PM   #79
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Tach seems a little laggy.
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:26 PM   #80
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thanks guys, yeah right after i posted that i thought "why the hell not?" just ordered one im gonna try it out see if it works. i'll do a write up as i go along and try to figure it out.
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